Cooper40

Thanks @squirebill for the info. I think I have that same service manuel. I'll have a look at that page. I will pull the rod bearings for #1 and 6 rods and take the pics and see what you guys think. I'm not completely sure but I it kind of looks like the engine was rebuilt at one point because the cylinders looked really nice so the bearings that I get might need to be a different size. It might say on the back them right?

@Dave72dt I have a torque wrench but I will be torqueing with the engine still in the car. Is it possible to do the mains and fit a torque wrench in there?

@squirebill Ok yeah that makes sense. @RobertKB I will but i dont have a clue what brand to use. Any recommendations? @Hickory Yes I was still talking about the rods. Ok good I'm glad it can be done without removing the crank.

@Dave72dt Can I change the top bearings without dropping the crank or will i have to drop the crank to get to them? All new to me so learning as I go

@Dave72dt Yeah ok that makes sense. Thanks.

@FarmerJon Ok thanks.

@squirebill Yeah I thought of this too. Will do.

@Sniper Ok yeah i was wondering if I could do that. Thanks.

Last year I pulled the #6 rod cap when i was trying to get the engine broken free and I discovered some flaking on the bottom bearing. So now I am going to be removing all of the rod bearings and I am wondering if I need to put some protective cloth or something between the crank and the bottom of the connecting rods (when the top bearings are removed). The bottom side of the crank will be fine but what about the top side. My plan is the remove all of the bearings and inspect them for wear. I will post pictures once I do. I will be doing this with the engine still in the car. This is all new for me so any help is appreciated!

@Ivan_B I'm planning on just doing a rubber line to a small fuel tank to get it idling.

@Ivan_B Ok cool. I should of specified im just wanting to get fuel hose and rig up a boat tank not fuel line. But it should be the same size right?

@Ivan_B Ok yeah I'll check that. Thank you! I'm also wanting to get fuel line and I'm not sure what size to get for this carb. Do you know what size they take? I was looking and seeing 5/16?

Hi everyone, I am looking for a carb kit for our 1949 Plymouth. It has a Carter D6H1 carburetor on it. This link that I found says its from '46 to '48 but it lists my carb as one that it can fit on. Would this work to get? Thanks! https://www.partsgeek.com/rr5g35x-dodge-deluxe-carburetor-repair-kit.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=ff&utm_content=TS&utm_campaign=PartsGeek+Google+Base&utm_term=1946-1948+Dodge+Deluxe+Carburetor+Repair+Kit+Standard+Motor+Products+101A+46-48+Dodge+Carburetor+Repair+Kit+1947&fp=pp&gbm=a&gad_source=1&cid=18313611776&gclid=CjwKCAjwzN-vBhAkEiwAYiO7oJqCm8JFQZEFCH7X0BC_YaYzi2ADCZHyi68IYaQ-ps8lZofMzabngxoCNY8QAvD_BwE

@Sam Buchanan Yes we were able to get it out. Thanks.

Yes everything is moving involving pistons and valves. Valves just probably aren't seating all the way. Yeah I wasn't talking about draining the oil, I was talking about draining the block. Just did that. There was already some coolant in it that came out but I think some water too and a lot of it was rusty and brown. We'll definitely give it a good flush next spring.

@DJK That whole valve can be removed all the way? Or am I looking at the wrong thing?

We think we found the drain plug/petcock. Unscrewed it and there is just a very slow drip of water coming out. It was 30 degrees when I woke up. Stuck a small screw driver in there and it didn't do anything. Would that mean the water is partially frozen and not wanting to come out or there isn't much in there to begin with?

@Los_Control Ok do i need to drain the block before putting oil in or leave as is? @Ivan_B What don't you think is sticking?

@Los_Control Ok yeah I get what you're saying. We aren't going to run it anymore until the spring and we'll tackle the cooling system first thing before starting it again.

@Ivan_B I get what you're saying. We're going to keep the engine and probably tear it down next year. It's definitely a tired engine and we'll have to put a lot of work into it but we like learning how to work on engines and this seems like the perfect project. We want the satisfaction of saying that we rebuilt the original engine and that we are driving using the original engine. We're in no rush But thanks anyway for the advice, I understand where you're coming from.

@Sniper @Tired iron @9 foot box @TodFitch We ended up bringing the battery to O'Reillys, they tested it and said it was good. Turns out we were using a battery maintainer not a charger to charge the battery! Got a charger and charged it up overnight and got a full charge. The car started this morning for the first time! Refer to my most recent post for details.

@Ivan_B I remember seeing coolant in the water jackets when the head was off so I guess that's good? The radiator isn't hooked up. I don't even know if it leaks or not.

We just got it running! It was a bunch of little 5 second bursts because we are completely new at feeding the carburetor and keeping it running. I didn't hear any loud knocks when it ran but it definitely wasn't running on all cylinders and it was backfiring out of the carb. When we first got the car I noticed that the water pump looked really crusty and so did the thermostat housing and inside of the head. (Look below for pictures). I felt the head after we ran it and it was warm. Not hot but definitely warm. Is that normal or should it not be warm yet? Also, is it okay to hook up a fuel system and run it for a minute before we dig into the cooling system, or should we not run it anymore and wait until the cooling system is in working order? Again, very new at this, so all advice is welcome. *Look at my previous posts if you want to know more about the journey of getting it running.*

We've got it to pop off for a second but it doesn't catch and the battery starts cranking very slow. It's like the battery is loosing its charge very quickly. We'd charge it up for a couple hours, try again and the same thing. It would fire but then as soon as it doesn't catch and keeps cranking it gets slower and slower. We've tested the battery with a multimeter on the DC volts setting and are getting 6.3 when it's not charging and when it's charging it's at 6.4. We're not really sure what to do. We're thinking it's the battery and not the starter because it would gradually slow down as we were cranking. Edit: We've only been charging the battery for a couple hours at a time and its never been fully charged. We're going to charge it overnight until it shows that it's fully charged and then try again.

@vintage6t Cables are 2/0 (00) size. However, we didnt change the cable going from the solenoid to the starter. That one looks rough. Ordered a cable yesterday (same size as the main neg and pos battery cables) so waiting for that to come. We didn't even touch the carb lol. I hear fuel squirting when I pump the throttle and since it did fire off for a few seconds it only stopped when I stopped giving it fuel. Then wouldn't fire up after because I think it lost compression?