Cooper40
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Bolts for mounting Flat 6 to Harbor Freight engine stand
Cooper40 replied to Cooper40's topic in P15-D24 Forum
Thanks for the info guys. Yeah I knew that @Sniper made a post about it, I was just curious about other opinions. -
Hi, I'm curious what bolts to use to mount a flathead 6 to a 1 ton Harbor Freight engine stand. I know there is a post about it, just curious what you guys use.
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Yeah, finding a used one can either be good or bad but I'm not spending 3k on a new engine for this car. More like around 500.
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@rustyzman I'll look them up!
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@wagoneer $3000 is pretty steep for me and he doesnt ship. I'd preferably want to find something more local and not so expensive. But thanks for the link.
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@lostviking Didn't end up getting it. Must of had a lot of other people wanting to get it. The hunt continues...
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@greg g I do still have the trans and bell housing for the plymouth. Not even sure if im going to get this yet because he hasn't responded saying it's available.
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Hi, I'm looking for a replacement engine for my 1949 Plymouth. I found this one on Marketplace but he lists it as a 213. Did he make a mistake and mean to say 218 or is there such thing as a 213? The engine I have now is a 218. Wondering if this would fit? https://www.facebook.com/share/vRefakVSW4treWkF/?mibextid=kL3p88
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@Matt Wilson Ok thanks for the info. I understand what you're saying. I'm still going to try it anyway. If I mess it up, there are more engines out there to replace it. Im not planning on taking the block to a machine shop. I want to leave the engine in the car and remove the ridges and put the pistons back in with new rings in them.
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Yeah I watched that video. It was a good one. I went with the snap-on one.
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Ok, I was looking at new lisle ones and there were mixed reviews. Found this old snap-on one on ebay. What do you guys think about it. Ive heard they're a good brand. This is the new lisle one I was looking at. I could do it but some of the reviews weren't as good.
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Thanks for the comments guys. Can anyone link a good ridge reamer tool to get? I know for a fact that I'm going to have to get one in order to get the pistons out.
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Wondering what the steps would be to remove the crank with the engine in the car. I'm reconsidering pulling the engine and just doing honing and valves with the engine in the car.
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@soth122003 Yes I've watched that video a bunch actually haha. That's a good idea to get a load leveler, it'll definitely make it a lot easier. Our car is out on grass away from our barn that we'll be putting the engine into so we're thinking of using our grandpa's tractor that has this grapple attachment to take it out. Might make it interesting connecting the load leveler to it but it'll be a lot easier to transport. @D35 Torpedo Ok, so you used your head bolts but put them into the side of the block instead of the head? I'll probably get new bolts because those head bolts were rusted and I don't trust them!
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All of this was to get at a transmission bolt and I was actually able to get it underneath the car with a bunch of extensions so I don't need to take the floor out after all.
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I ended up getting the bolt loose with a bunch of extensions between the transmission and floor. Glad I don't have to remove the floor!
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Got the pedals out. The gas pedal wasn't that bad to get out. Just had to remove one clip underneath the floor. Got almost all of the screws out of the access panel. The floor is rough so a lot of them were rusted and hard to get out. A couple were almost non existent. Funny enough, some previous owner put a patch panel on part of the floor. I have to get that off as well and those flathead screws are proving even harder to get out than the original phillips head screws haha!
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I'm going to go with the 2000lb version. Would rather play it safe and know that the stand is plenty for the engine. On a different subject, where would i connect the chain when pulling the engine? On the head or on the sides of the block? Also in terms of chain, when buying should I just ask for one that's rated for 1000lb? Thanks again guys for all the help.
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@Sam Buchanan Ok I will look underneath the pedal and see if there is linkage I can unsnap. I don't know when my '49 was made but maybe it's the same as your '48.
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Hi, I'm taking out my floor pan access panel and I want to know what I have to disconnect with the throttle linkage to remove the floor pan. I took took pictures from underneath the car. The yellow oval in the first one is where the gas pedal is. The second pic is where the linkage meets another part (right under the steering column) that goes to the carburetor I think. I'm thinking I need to disconnect it somewhere on that second picture? But I don't know. Anyone who has the same car know what to do?
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@Dan Hiebert Yeah I know they aren't anywhere near 2000lb im just wanting to play it safe. You think I could go with the 1000lb capacity one? I don't want to get it just to realize that it droops and isn't as stable.
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@Ron175 Ok cool, just wanting to play it safe.
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@D35 Torpedo So are you coming in from on top of the transmission under the car parallel to the floor? I didn't think you could fit anything between the floor and the transmission.
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I'm looking into getting an engine stand for my 218 flathead 6. Thinking of getting this 2000lb capacity stand from HF. Think it'll be enough? I know, it's from HF but I've seen good reviews of guys putting engines that are heavier than the flathead with no issues.
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Thanks @kencombs I think I'm going to remove the access panel and do it that. Like everyone's saying, it's easier.
