Jim Yergin

Charlie, Thanks for the offer but I found what I needed. Jim Yergin

That translucent paint is what I used on my front parking bulbs. Works great. Bought the paint at a model store. Jim Yergin

Joe, That is what I originally did. I just bolted it in. But after reading Pete's account and Normspeed's postings I decided that it would be better to go through it now rather than get the car all assembled and then discover a problem. Pete and Normspeed make it sound do-able what I would otherwise be afraid to do. I hope to get into it this weekend. When you say you still need to find the "electrical stuff" do you mean the relay, kick-down switch, the governor, the solenoid and the lock-out switch? Or is it just the relay and the kick-down switch that you need and the other things are on your transmission? Jim Yergin

Does anyone have some extra exhaust manifold nuts from a parts engine? I need four. Somewhere along the line the original split nuts were replaced on mine. Thanks. Jim Yergin

Joe, You might want to look at bluesky's web site (http://www.50plymouth.com/)for info on the O/D overhaul, if you haven't already done so. I just pulled mine out of the car to go through it. I will let you know how it goes. Jim Yergin

Bob, A while back I posted a picture from eBay of a multiple belt belt crank pulley for a Dodge Power Wagon. My posting is at: http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=4967&highlight=pulley So it looks like they may exist. Unfortunately I do not know where to find them You may want to contact Vintage Power Wagons. http://www.vintagepowerwagons.com Jim Yergin

Ed, I believe Joe's car is a '49 and may use a different bushing. Jim Yergin

Tim, Thanks for the information. I have a spare 1941 transmission so I may look into using the second speed gear and the gear cluster in my O/D. Jim Yergin

Joe, Do you have a part number for the bushing? I am often surprised what you can find in a PartsVoice search with the manufacturer's part number. Jim Yergin

In no small part due to what I have learned on this forum, I find myself once again taking a step backwards on my '41 Plymouth woodie project in the hopes of taking a couple of steps forward. Before final assembly of the front sheet metal, I decided to "upgrade" to a 230 flathead. I have assembled my 230 flathead using a P23 block and a crank and connecting rods from a D24 motor. Yesterday I took advantage of some early spring like weather to pull the 201 and O/D transmission I had in the car. The plan is now to overhaul the O/D transmission (thank you Pete Anderson and Normspeed) and then install it and the 230 into the car. Here are pictures of the removed engine and transmission and the replacement engine. Sorry for the blurry picture. This forum has already been responsible for some other "upgrades" to my project that have been worth delaying completion including disc brakes on all four wheels, a shift lever installed O/D kickdown switch, and a vintage Sun tachometer. Jim Yergin

Can some one explain the "fast second gear" that has been mentioned regarding George Asche's O/D units? My limited understanding is that the second gear ratio on the earlier transmissions is different than the later transmissions. Is that correct? What has to be changed to install that different second gear in the later O/D transmissions? Thanks. Jim Yergin

Bob, That is fantastic. It is exactly what I was looking for. Thank you very much for going to all that trouble. Would it be too much to ask if you could tell me the length of each leg of the rod connected to the handle? I only hope I can return the favor some day. Jim Yergin

Terry, Thank you very much for posting the instructions, I really appreciate it. Unfortunately they look like they are for the model 36 single heater and not for the dual heater set up I have. Jim Yergin

Ed, Waiting until spring even in Minnesota as opposed to here in Virginia is no problem for me. It would be great if you have an extra. Thanks. Jim

Bob, Thank you very much. Those pictures are just what I needed. Could you provde me with the measurements of the flat handle piece (length, width, thickness, etc.) as well as the length of each leg of the 90' round rod piece and the diameter of the rod? It would also help to know where the two pivot holes (pivot on the end at the support pivot and the place where the round rod attaches) are located on the flat handle piece. Jim Yergin

Even though I don't have my car on the road yet, being optimistc that this will be the year that that happens, I am looking at some other things I want to do to the car. Over the years I have collected parts for a dual heater set-up in my '41 P12. I have a 53 heater and a 54 heater, the kick panel ducts, the fresh air duct assembly as well as the dual heater control valve and the hard line heater lines under the hood. What I don't have is the control lever for the inside fresh air door. I appear to have the pivot linkage and spring on that door but no lever. I have looked at the parts diagram BobT-47P15 posted on April 20, 2007 and the pictures Rockwood posted on May 25, 2007 but I am still not clear how the rod attaches to the support under the dash. Can anyone supply a clear picture or diagram of it? Also the dimensions of the rod and the bracket it attaches to? It seems like I should be able to fabricate that rod. Also, is the knob on this second lever the same as the one on the lever for the regular outside cowl door? Thanks. Jim Yergin

Don, I just have to ask, did you both have your windows open so that you could hear him at that speed? Must have been quite a "blue streak" of words. "He was cursing at 75 MPH and I believe he did not have a flat head 6 powering this car." Sorry, I couldn't resist. Jim Yergin

Ed, Is that requirement something new? I have ordered two build cards in the past and did not have to submit a copy of my titles. Jim Yergin

Lou This is from the reference section of the main site: Factory Build Cards Are Now Available From Chrysler ! Cost is $45.00 USD and requires your car's factory serial number. (VIN number on the door frame, not the engine block serial number.) Mail information to: Chrysler Historical Collection, DaimlerChrysler Corporation, CIMS 410-11-21, 12501 Chrysler Freeway, Detroit, MI 48288, USA Jim Yergin

Looks good. It appears that you have an original equipment turn signal switch. Pretty neat. Jim Yergin

Joe, Looking good. I hope you got most of it done on Saturday and did not have to work in the cold and wind that arrived here on Sunday. Jim Yergin

Vintage Power Wagons sells the 230 flywheel. http://www.vintagepowerwagons.com/products/parts/group1-engine.htm Jim Yergin

Bob, My understanding is that the crank on the 230 is fractionally different in length than the 218 crank. The flywheel on the 230 is therefore different and the starter will not engage properly if you use a 218 flywheel with a 230 crank. Some one please correct me if I am wrong. Jim Yergin

James, The head I am using has the "bump" that covers the internal bypass opening in the top of the block. My question is about the internal bypass opening in the end of the block behind the water pump. Does that need to be blocked by something more than the water pump gasket and the external bypass water pump? Thanks. Jim Yergin

Fred, I think you confirmed what I thought. Since I am not relying upon the internal bypass but rather the external bypass with the proper fittings on the top of the pump and the cylinder head, I can use the external bypass water pump. Your point about there not being any pressure is a good one and one I had not considered. I will use some sealant on the internal bypass opening and rely upon the new gasket and the solid backing plate on the pump to seal that opening. Thanks. Jim Yergin