53windsor

This little guy at the top here. Andy Bernbaum kit. Everything else matches up with what I removed. What is it?

It will puke coolant if overfilled too. There seems to be a level where its happy, well below the very top. Been here, done this.

I went and bought an aftermarket mechanical gauge from the flaps (friendly local auto parts store) until I can afford to get mine fixed, or learn to do it myself. Installation was pretty straight forward, I just lay it in the ashtray until I get rich/ambitious.

Does anyone have a set of upper shock mount measurements? MOD NOTE: request for parts removed from post.

I always wondered why it was so hard to steer. An extra 2 inches of width will do that. I'm not sure the exact route I'll take for shocks yet. I have to see how butchered the original mounts are. Loren, I will take you up on the offer of a piece of frame.

That is definitely a hole ripped in the frame. It's on the list of things to fix. Car has what looks like original steel wheels with chrome spider style caps. I'm basing this on the existence of the clearance holes for the rivets and the peg to hold the wheel while you start the bolts.

Working on my rusty hope disc brake conversion and I notice the front wheels have spacers. Same lug pattern, just space the wheels out an inch. Why? About all I can figure is clearance was needed for the (poorly installed) modern shock. Anyone run into this before?

I am aware the toe will need adjustment. Is there not enough adjustability for that?

The kit includes a caliper plate that bolts between the spindle and steering arm, with threads in the spindle (being cut by me) holding it all together. There would be no clearance behind the rotor for a bolt head or nut. I realize now that the pin is not threaded and have abandoned that course of action since there is no slop in the kingpin and no reason to take it off. Sometimes the "right way" is just more work. Now I know.

Status update: I broke the tap on hole 2, backing up, breaking the chips. 😑 ordering a new one since apparently I'm the first guy in the county to ever need to tap a 5/8 hole, and nothing is available locally. Thanks for all the advice. I'll keep plugging away at it.

I have changed course. I have managed to get one hole tapped so far. Looked all over locally for a 37/64ths drill and came up empty. Turns out the hole is pretty darn close already. Go figure. That pin is not coming out, and thats fine. There doesn't appear to be any slop in the joint so I'm just going to leave all that alone. On to # 2.

Working on a Rusty Hope disc brake conversion [1953 Windsor) and I'm trying to remove the spindle. Got the top Welsh plug out, now I'm onto the screw(?) that holds the kingpin in. It looked like a rivet at first, but if I zoom into the pics it looks like a broken bolt. The plan is to start drilling unless somebody has a better idea.

My understanding is that the arm shape isn't critical as long as it meets the fuel pump eccentric properly. Somebody check my math.

The cut off Speedo cable was a red flag for sure. I'm going to pass. Thanks for weighing in.

You're right. I don't _need_ it, and don't feel like it's worth the gamble at this point. But just for fun, can we place a year on this thing?