StayFrosty

OK, Thanks for the help so far. I've managed to get the inner panel removed this afternoon. I actually took both sides apart so I could see how the linkages work in a properly working door. The 10-penny nail did the trick for getting the handles off. After inspecting everything, it appears that all the linkages--both inside and outside--are working correctly and the problem is somewhere in the latch itself. I'm going to give Plymouthy Adam's oil trick a try and see what happens. I can't say I'm overly confident--I'm thinking something is broken internally in the latch itself. Worst case, anybody know where I might find a new set of door hinges and a new latch?

Hello everyone, I went to take the '54 out for a drive the other day. When I attempted to open the driver door it behaved like it was locked--the handle pulled out freely and didn't do anything. Thinking I accidentally locked the door somehow, I crawled through the passenger side and tried opening the door there. I got a little (but less than normal) resistance from the handle but the latch did not disengage. I removed the metal trim around the window and looked in to the door as I tried the handle again. I could see the linkage moving correctly. If I ever want to open this door again, I suppose I'm going to have to disassemble it with the door shut and figure out what part of the latch is broken. Has anybody on here ever done this? Any tips on how I might remove the door panel without destroying it? The lower part of the panel is original and still in near-perfect condition. I would like to save it if at all possible. In addition, the process for removing the interior door handle/escutcheon is less than obvious. From the research I've done, there is supposed to be a pin somewhere that has to be removed but I haven't had any luck locating any pins. Any advice on this would be welcomed as well. Thanks.

To each their own I suppose. I started laughing when he was talking about how the subterranean part is natural disaster proof. I was thinking of what a tornado would do to all of his poor bikes.

Last set (for now)

I wish I knew how to do thumbnails on this site

Round 3:

And some more: Love the dash ^^

A few pics to add from when I was there Friday:

The Jaguar XJ6 light buckets may work but the Bezel will not. I have a '74 XJ6 and I took a look at it this morning. They do not have the chrome bezels around the lights per se as they are actually inset slightly in to the fender and hood.

I'm out in the sticks in the Hatfield area.

Mine is a 2-door as well. The tip about the '53 headlight doors is good to know. Mine are in pretty bad shape. One of them is kind of smashed a bit on the bottom and both are pitted up. I like the looks of the '53s better. I'll have to keep an eye out for a stainless steel set. I also really like your fender tips. Were those factory on the Savoy? I seem to remember seeing them on a 4-door Belvidere that used to be in the area.

I'm going to have to at some point. Somewhere in this car's past the rockers were "repaired" with bondo. It's starting to show a little on top so at the very least I will have to replace the rotted out parts.

It's a 3 speed manual...Just the way I like it :-) I'm not sure of the exact color. The bottom has been repainted once so I don't think it quite matches the original color (as seen on the firewall.) EDIT: Don, I'm in Central WI.

I picked up another old Plymouth last Friday--This time it's a '54 Savoy I bought it from an older gentleman in my hometown. He has owned the car since 1983 and mostly drove in in parades and took it to local shows in the summer. It was garage kept when he wasn't driving it and it's in pretty darn good shape for a 57 year old car. The engine runs like it rolled out of the factory yesterday and everything is tight and smooth. All the wiring is in good shape and all the electronics work with the exception of the radio. I spotted a power wire not connected behind the radio so one of these days I'll hook it up and see what catches fire The body is by no means perfect. There are a couple of rust spots visible in the above picture. I also spotted some rust and bondo in and around the rocker panels. For now the plan is to fix that and drive it over the summer while I finish up some other projects. Every time I look at the car I have visions of a nice mild custom with a lace pattern on the top, shaved door handles and frenched headlights among other things. I just can't bring myself to cut the car up (yet.) The WWW tires came with the car and are in fantastic condition. The white walls cleaned up nicely with some SOS pads and a little elbow grease. So far I've been enjoying cruising around int he car and it has attracted all kinds of attention wherever I've gone. There are a few things I need a little advice on though. The seats are original and in great shape. They aren't torn or overly worn and I'd like to keep it that way. What do you use for a seat cover on the split bench seats? I did pick up a few "indan blankets (sic)" when I went through New Mexico back in February and I have been using them but I'd prefer something a little more form fitting--especially with the split front bench. Any suggestions? I'd also like to add an aftermarket tach. The problem I'm having is the shifting linkage runs along the top of the steering column preventing me from mounting a tach there. Any ideas for this? I've considered mounting one off to the side but then the gauge isn't straight. Any help would be appreciated.

Good luck with Ubuntu. I run nothing but Linux at home and recommend Ubuntu to people starting out in Linux. I generally suggest people use the "LTS" or "Long term support" release so you don't have to upgrade as frequently to stay supported (Support cycle is every 3 years.)

A few things I would check: 1.) The coil wire. If it's got no spark at all it could simply be that the coil wire is loose on one end or the other. When this kind of stuff happens to me it's usually something simple like this. While you are at it, it may be a good idea to make sure all the plug wires are tight on both ends. Especially if you have had the distributor cap off a couple of times. 2.) Check the point gap. Turn the motor over with the distributor cap off and make sure they are opening and closing correctly. You can use a continuity tester to make sure electricity is moving across the points when they close. With the wire going from the coil to the distributor disconnected, hook an alligator clip to each side of the points. Slowly turn the motor over to make sure there is continuity. If there is not, visually inspect the points and if they are burned file or replace them as necessary. 3.) Check that the wiring inside the distributor is not grounding to the metal housing. 4.) Test/replace the coil.

I found the place with the magic of Google Maps . I don't have the exact address, but it's on Reshel Rd. GPS Coordinates are 44.365519,-90.359024 to the driveway. Hopefully that helps.

That's a nice looking dash. I'm looking in to grain-it now. Thanks.

I'm in the process of re-wiring my 49 Plymouth and I figured as long as I have the dash out I should do something about the rusty wood grain on the dash and windshield trim. My windshield leaks a bit so the original wood grain is shot. Does anyone know of a place to affordably buy replacement wood grain? Would I be better off just sanding and painting the dash?

I'm guessing you are the guy that my friend and I ran in to this weekend over by Neillsville. We were in the '50 Dodge. I've been over there a few times but can't seem to ever remember the owners name. What would you like to know?

Thanks for your help. I'll have to play with the emergency brake and see what the light does.

Picture is fixed. The light is circled in red. Thanks.

Hello everyone, I bought a '49 Plymouth about a month ago and have slowly been getting it back in to roadworthy condition. One of the next projects I am going to tackle is the wiring. I think I've got a pretty solid grasp of what is going on with one minor exception. There's this "mystery light" on my dash just to the right of the gauges. Some times it's off, some times it blinks and sometimes it's on solid. What is this thing? I'm probably way off but a couple of my theories so far have been aftermarket turn signal indicator (I doubt it since there is a light on the stick) or some sort of low battery/charging indicator.