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supertweet

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Everything posted by supertweet

  1. sounds good, the Island is always nice that time of year, need a reason to cross the salish sea once in a while. name a place/time, Thanks dave.
  2. ah the keepers, thanks, that was pestering. will remove and store as per instructed, next move collect parts and a bit of loot, then we'll put er back together. cheers,dave.
  3. just cam and valves left in block, have valve spring compressor, what's the manouver to remove valves? undoing the 3/8" nut all the way snugs it up to the spring assembly-frustrating...thx,Dave.
  4. wow, maybe ill take the camera with us next time we go up the valley, thx Dave in Squamish,B.C.
  5. o.k. i'll get back out there, remove valves and keep in same order for re-install, thx,Dave.
  6. wow, thanks-what a beauty in her day eh! the tag has model/body no., then paint code:6 I O, and trim code: A O H. cheers, Dave.
  7. finally got crankshaft out this p.m., tried working camshaft out by prying with large flathead etc. got a little movement in right direction, do i use a puller now or will it ease out with more force? buddy mentioned its easy to damage lobes... valves still in, take out first? thanks, Dave.
  8. could use the radio, might have the wiper mount, will check in a.m., Dave.
  9. engine is 251, looked at powerwagon.com, probalbly easiest way to go, thanks Dave.
  10. pulling what parts we can from four bushed out cars up the valley, this one's tag says the above model and body numbers, tried to find in the archives, just wondering what year this one is. all pretty shot, just some door handles,fenders,etc. to hang on shop walls, any help appreciated. thx, Dave.
  11. upon disassembly found P#4 cracked in the skirt. planning on putting it all back together with new bearings, etc. anyone have a set around or just source new? thax,Dave.
  12. thanks for photo's, i rerouted twice- once from firewall oil/temp bracket, then up steering column, both wrong, now i can go do it right...Dave
  13. supertweet

    tool_box

    made this tool box from '36 coupe(?), wrapped in copper foil torch on roofing, just needs door handles, shelves,maybe a light, prop up system...thx,Dave.
  14. o.k., everything bagged and tagged, took a few photos, marked main caps, need large socket for crank bolt at pulley, thats the only hold up, then out with crank and cam and see where were at. thx. Dave
  15. o.k., was worried about timing etc. just started to get bogged down, pistons stuck and the conecting rod bolts are resting on crankshaft jounals, then oil pump half out and a main bearing off, getting scattered, not what i had planned. thx, Dave.
  16. to remove oil pump, just unbolt distributor and pull out? piston # 4 cracked in skirt, 2 stuck with crank in the way. just take off timing cover etc., then bearing caps then crank will remove? buddy told me dont let crank turn. not sure.. thanks dave.
  17. sounds like a good idea, always nice to see other trucks etc. , keep us posted..Thanks, Dave.
  18. pulled head, pistons bored 30 over, can see the crosshatching,slight ridge but not too big. main bearing says 08-56, so it was redone awhile ago. main bearings scored a bit, crank slight ridge that doesnt quite catch your fingernail. took one piston out, will remove others in a.m. then remove valves ? wondering if i can use these pistons, and inst. new bearings,rings, etc.? send crank out for grinding? same with cam? back from upper valley with '48, harvested trunk lids and door from '40's cars, rotting in bush. plymouth business coupe, couple chevys there too, all rusted but some front clips and fenders left, maybe i should photodoc.and post, that stuff wont weather too much longer... thanks Dave.
  19. oil pan off, lots of sludge but crank/cam/pistons look clean underneath it all, will clean up, then pull head.what is the move to free up the valves and check rod and main bearings ? will try to post photo later,Thanks,Dave.
  20. picked up a 47 truck years ago, removed engine, buddy got truck. engine now on stand, draining oil, next remove oil pan or head? just want to know what condition and can it get running again. all bolts have come loose real easy, # on block T118G12290. lower # bside oil sending tube 66029. #below and left of distributorK 1 0. just weather siezed? thx,Dave
  21. replaced 30 amp breaker, $5.50 part, got it all together, back from country drive, next to pick up a 47 flathead that's in buddy's garage, so will test lights proper. think it's weather siezed, will assess and report asap. temp. gauge working after soldering on donor as per instructions provided, thanks, Dave.
  22. alright glad i can get one. will check and install more grounds, never had a problem before this but there must be a reason, age, moisture,ground etc. the bead blast is an excellent idea, one small part at a time! thanks for support, will update and let ya know my next challenge with the old boy.thx Dave.
  23. ran power direct to switch and it worked fine, so it's this circuit breaker, think i can just pick one up tomorrow at napa or is there a repair? won't operate with direct power, (may cause it to fry?), will spray and clean up switch while we're under there, what a relief the 64 yr old switch works, what quality eh! thx, Dave.
  24. o.k. thanks ill try that, took power wire off of the circuit breaker, small metal rectangular shaped, "aerovox-self closing 30 amp" - should i try to replace or can i bench test-will spray switch first... thanks again, Dave.
  25. seems the switch is not working, power at rear post, nothing anywhere else, have an old spare, can i bench test it, should i install it or hit the old one with electrical cleaner or carefully disassemble? thanks, Dave.
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