chesterx

Any idea's on what I could sell mt 51 Cranbrook for? No Rust, new paint, new interior, new motor, runs like a kitten. Original 6V system, needs little chrome work, have tons of spare parts including a 49 engine/3 sped tranny.

I have a 218 engine with3 speed tranny and ebrake assembly sitting on my garage floor. Located in Colorado. Condition unknown as I purchased for a spare.

My clutch pedal began sticking in about the halfway posision. Greased all the zerks I could find and still occasionally sticks. Was wondering if throw out bearing may be sticking???? Clutch engages and disengages just fine, no slipping. Any thoughts?

If you search this forum you will find the numbers for stock distidutor application. I have spareat home but am out of town. If you cannot locate PM me and I will send the numbers next week.

Pertronix Points Eliminators work well in the 6v applications, just use the 1.5 ohm coil. Been running mine for 2 years now no problems.

Finally, they fit well and connect right up. Seem to be pretty sturdy.

Autozone and Checker no longer can order these units. NAPA is OK but $14 a pop. Classicgarage.com has these Autopal Brand H4 Headlamp Replacement (DOT Approved) - 7" Round AL-HL102DOTRetail price: $39.98classicgarage.com: $18.96 Comes with clear 65/55 H4 bulbs. Mine will arrive this week. Will let you know how well they work.

Added a 2ohm 50w resistor in parrallel with each of the2 front lamps and the flasher works just fine now.

I conntacted the above and will not work for positive 6 applications.

As of today I have tried to locate a 6v electronic flasher with no success. One guy in Canada used to sell them on Ebay but stopped making them due to low damand. Still looking for a source.

An 1176 looks right, s8 dual contact bayonett, 12v????

ok the Mopar Fast Movers Sheet lists nothing for 12v with 2 filaments in an S8 bayonett style. A 1043 is listed as dual element but it is an S8 Indexed Style.

Liked them in the rear so I ordered for the front and ran into the problem of not having enough current for the flasher to operate properly. Need to install 2 resistors in parallel with either front or rear to correct.

Ibeleive that would be an 1156 bulb, 1157 if staggered.

Anybody know which of their window inner/outer belt strrips are correct for a 51 Plymouth?

My 51 has the purolator p40 installed and I use a napa 1201 which fits perfectly. Only problem is the new gasket supplied is of no use, it doesn't fit the p40 cover.

Just installed some red LEDS in rear and they work great!

Replace them with LED's, 6v Amber are available from SuperbrightLEDS.com I just installed some reds in the rear and they work great!

PowerStream, Lund Instrument Eng. Inc. 140 South Mountainway Drive Orem, Utah 84058 801-764-9060 Voice 801-764-9061 Fax 180W Model PST-DU700-6 $150.00:) They also have a 250W +/-6 to +/-12

What model did you order?

Classicheads was a source for these from UK. Very expensive! Part arrived marked with Pertronix 1362P6 IGNITOR CHRYSLER 6 CYL 6V POS GND. I bought this one as a spare but have been running the same unit for over a year with no problems. Pertronix=$146.08. Can be used with points type coil of 1.5 ohms, recommended #40011 40,000 VOLT FLAME-THROWER (1.5 OHM) BLACK = $31.87

Heat shield- sorry. Bought a 1inch clamp at walmart for $1.88, formed end to fit around fuel line. Clamp is large enough to dissipate a lot of heat. Noticed that hot starts are a lot quicker, so far so good.

After reading all the comments in this post, I must say that I beleive removing heat from the fuel pump and adjacent areas was the heat risers original purpose. As these nuisance pieces of metal have long been discarded heatsinking the fuel line is still necessary and the reasons for it have not changed. So to the clothespin theary I say there may be some merit, although my first choice for dissapating heat would not be wood. This heatsinking is a common practice when soldering and is necessary for a good solder joint on many types of components. To that end I will work on developing an aluminum clamp on fuel line heatsink and experiment with temperature differences at the carb end line. Let's just see!

I would be glad too as soon as I get back home, in durango this week. But if you crawl under the drivers door you'll see your linkages. Two connect to a pivoting arm which rides on a shaft. The bolt to tighten is the one that holds the pivoting shaft.

My 51 has been driving great and has been on several 100 mile trips with no problms. Last night I went about 50 miles and stopped at a gas station. The car would not re-start. Pushed it off to the side and called a tow truck. While waiting for the truck I made severl attempts at starting but it seemed it wasn't getting fuel. Thought maybe a clogged fuel filter or the fuel pump went out. About an hour later, still waiting on tow, I turned the key and she started, just like normal. Made dash for the highway in an attempt to make it home. (Did call off tow driver). The car drove better than it ever had! Better acceleration, more power up hills, more speed. I couldn't beleive this night. I made it home and decided to make sure all was OK so I took her out again. 15miles RT at highway speeds, a stop at the grocery store, and back home- no problems. Being baffeled at this whole affair I decided that this old girl just past a kidney stone. Any thoughts?