MoparMontana

Feel free to shoot me an email. I have a Holley Sniper 2300 on the six in my DeSoto and a 4150 dual quad on the the hemi in my '67 GTX. Happy to help. moparmontana@gmail.com

Here is the latest blog from the EDGY page http://www.moparmontana.com/whats-new/winter-2021-update

I have never seen a 25" intake with the 4-bolt pattern. I reckon there is an adapter available, or they could be easily fabricated. I sold most of my duplicates several weeks ago, but I may have one or two that I'd part with. Yes, ElMo is the best. It's one of the reasons that I moved from Montana to California. See you in May.

I may have a few more twenty-three's available in a couple of months. I had a couple of pre-orders who have gone MIA now that I have requested payment. I'm going to give them the benefit of the doubt, but will cancel their order and put the heads on my site if I don't get payment in a month or so. www.moparmontana.com Fear not, my entirely new Gen III heads will be available in early 2022.

Loren, If you are not happy with your 25" head, you can return it and I will refund your money. The 25" pattern does not have the considerable improvements that I made to the 23" pattern. That being said, I would not be the slightest bit concerned about the points you made regarding the head. The "divots" are not porosity. They are simply from the sand core. There is also plenty of material to support the adapter that the temp sensor screws into. Just make sure you use a Teflon thread sealant and don't overtighten it. Again, if you are not pleased, just let me know at moparmontana@gmail.com

Ahhh, got it. Here you go. You can see exactly where stuff is and isn't. Also, look very closely at the exterior of the head for slight discolorations. That where the welds (red boxes) are to fill the core support holes. Anywhere else (green boxes) is fine. Place it at the same height as the existing H20 sensor.

As far as I know from my EFI swaps, it doesn't really matter where you place it in the head. It's just telling the ECU that it needs to enrichen the mixture below your set point, usually between 140 and 160, like a choke on a carb.

A few more photos of a sawed up Gen I EDGY (pre-2007). These are just a few more of the many changes that I made on my Gen II EDGY pattern. An earlier poster mentioned that they didn't think there was adequate material for the temp sender. I disagree, as even this Gen I head with core shift shows. I have never heard a single complaint about any issue here. Once the sender adapter is installed, it will probably never be removed anyway. It's a pipe thread. Use a Teflon sealant and don't overtighten it. It's really that simple.

This was the first test casting of my Gen II EDGYs. As you can see, the quality of the raw casting is very nice, and allows us to have very consistent as-cast combustion chambers that don't require any additional machining to equalize. My foundry tells me that this is due to a proprietary process that they use. The use of pure ingot A-357 (no recycled material) makes for a VERY dense casting with no porosity. Earl had a reject rate of 25% with his foundry. We had only two rejects in my last batch of twenty-five heads.

So, this is (was) a well used Gen I EDGY head that we sawed up back in 2018. 1. The red box shows that the cylinder #1 got pretty hot at some point. We determined that this was due to coolant stagnation at the front of the head. We addressed this by eliminating the "dams" (green boxes) on "my" EDGY pattern. 2. The yellow square is to draw attention to the abrupt radius from the floor to the combustion chamber. The engineer at the foundry was concerned about this, so significantly increased all internal radii. 3. You can see by the softness of the aluminum that this head was also not properly heat treated. All of my Gen II EDGY heads produced have these modifications.

I had to look into the wayback files, but I finally found the photos of when we sawed up Earl's Gen I (pre-2017) EDGY heads to make improvements to the patterns for my Gen II (post 2018) EDGY heads. I will post some close-ups of the issues we found, and what we did to correct them at a later date.

Wow! Impressive work. I have a Holley Sniper EFI on my DeSoto. I was never happy with the carburetion with the blow-through supercharger, especially since the old McCulloch is a VS (variable speed) that adjusts boost with load (via a vacuum switch). EFI is the the hot ticket.

There are some good air density calculators online https://wahiduddin.net/calc/calc_da.htm The corrected altitude fluctuations at Bonneville can be massive, from as low as 4800' to over well over 7000'. It's so important in fact, that they are printed on your timing slip. It's not unusual to change carburetor jets two or three sizes depending on what time of day you run.

By the way, here is a photo of the EDGY-equipped P2P car!

Really? What would your RWHP be with no engine? A dyno absolutely measures engine horsepower. It's why there are gross (at the flywheel) and net (at the wheels) HP calculations. All automotive manufacturers have used SAE NET horsepower (at the rear wheels) figures since 1972, so it's clear that they believe a dyno measures horsepower.

It's all good, although I'm still trying to understand what Gregg G meant. Maybe he has our various projects confused. The "P2P" is a stock-bodied '33 Dodge rally car that was built for the 2019 Peking to Paris Rally. That engine was built for dependability, not horsepower and only had 8:1 compression. The rules require a stock body, and the average speeds across the Gobi desert are relatively low, so aerodynamics are irrevealant. I stand by my opinion that an 8:1 engine that make 150 HP and 278 ft/lb at the rear wheels is impressive. He also mentions that a stock engine produced 127 gross HP. Using a conservative figure of 15% drivetrain loss, that equates to 108 HP. Again, a 42 HP increase with the same compression ratio is pretty impressive in my book.

I'm either confused or drunk or both. This is a prefect example of why I am reluctant to participate in forums.

Dyno measurements of an engine's performance are completely independent the aerodynamics of the vehicle that hosts it.

Measured HP is HP, and measured torque is torque, regardless of what one puts that engine in. The aerodynamics of the vehicle that one chooses to put that powerplant in is irrelevant to measuring the power output.

Huh?

California does indeed have some odd regulations, but after 30 years of driving my fleet 90 days per year in Montana, I'll happily find ways around them in order to drive my old stuff in the sunshine year-round!

Here is the P2P dyno sheet. I'm not familiar with "simulating aero drag" on a dyno, and don't understand why that's relevant to measuring HP. We use El Mirage for our wind tunnel ? Sounds like your HP figures are very similar, but we have learned that there can be some pretty significant variances from dyno to dyno. We were lucky enough to have access to the DynoJet "mule" dyno at their facility in Belgrade, MT for about ten years. Our readings changed significantly over the years as they made hardware and software upgrades. It made it pretty hard to get an accurate baseline, so we basically just used it to optimize A/F and timing.

Yes, I have one designed. It is a modular design with one base that incorporates various top plates in order to run anything from 2 ones, 2 twos, 2300 series Holley, one or EFI like I have on my DeSoto. Still over a year out though. Managing four cars, two of them new builds, to run on the Salt next year has me chasing my tail.

That's nuts!! Why can't you simply drain it in the garage and take it to recycling? Even that's "illegal"? Of course, this is coming from the guy who cleaned out his '29 DeSoto gas tank in the alley last week.

Agreed, but Chris, Earl, Ian, and I have put a combined hundreds of thousands of miles on our EDGY Gen I & II heads over the years, in every sort of driving condition (single digits in Montana to 113 degrees driving to Bonneville and back) without issue. But yes, I always run antifreeze and well as a sacrificial anode. And yes, Tony getting a real job really screwed things up. At least he's still assembling our race motors!