meadowbrook

I will check compression, but I can tell you it is fully tuned, runs like a top, starts easily and does not smoke at all. I just think the fluid coupling just seems to drag the engine down a lot when I come to a stop without pushing the clutch and there is very little slip as I drive. I mean when I accelerate and then coast, my tach shows almost no change in rpm.

Folks, I have a '50 Meadowbrook with I think the original fluid drive fluid. It does not leak and I think it may transfer more torque than it should since I read that the max rpm the engine should be able to run if I hit the throttle with the brakes on is 1800 rpm or so, yet mine will not spin over 700 in this condition. Also, if I set the idle to 500 rpm in neutral and later engage 1st and let go of the clutch but don't allow the car to move, the engine gets draggec down to 350 rpm, shaking a lot. Any thoughts?

Do they all have the same element? Mine (50 Dodge Meadowbrook) is like the 4th from the left on the top, the chromed one and my element is shot. Any leads on new elements?

Hi Folks. My 50 Meadowbrook has a recently built Overdrive from Asche, which I noticed recently that if I keep it in 2nd for a long time, the lever will slowly drop down until it disengages 2nd and goes to Neutral, usually when coasting. Would you say this is a shift linkage adjustment or a bad trans?

Good thanksgiving, gentlemen. Does anyone know if a 1950 Dodge Meadowbrook would have any ducting between the cowl vent and the rest of the underdash? When it rains and the vent is open, I get some water on the floor. Is this normal and I should just shut the vent on rainy days?

I paid $1 for my D34

They said it's too small

Thanks, I did call and they said I need the manifold to have a 1/2-5/8" tapped hole for their kit to work. Have people just drilled their manifolds with success or have they needed to obtain the power wagon version of this manifold with the properly sized boss?

Hi folks! I must start off saying this is one of the best websites I have seen. I was wondering what specific part numbers one would need to buy from that 'power wagon' website (forget the name) to have a complete set of a crank case ventilation pieces for a 1950 Dodge Meadowbrook with a 230 six fed by a Carter BB carbie.

Hello folks! I was lucky enough to find a fuel pump/vacuum pump on ebay for a song and am planning on rebuilding it and using it on my 50 D34. Question is, I noticed that the normal hookup for these is to the intake manifold to maintain vacuum for the wipers @ high throttle openings. Wouldn't such a setup cause fuel laden air to be sucked out of the manifold? Wouldn't it be better to forget about the manifold and connect the wipers motor directly to the vacuum pump?

I have 2 issues. 1- Carb is always wet. I though it was oil leakage from the air cleaner, but now i think it is indeed gas oozing through the actual carb body. Seems to be a problem in old Carter BB's. 2- On the air cleaner, if I fill it to the fill line, the engine 'corrects' the level by sucking out some of the oil until it is at a lower level. I also noticed that the bottom edge of the air cleaner's top half actually is submerged in the oil by maybe 1/8", so the area where the air is supposed to do a 180 degree turn and fling any dirt into the oil is closed, likely forcing the air to bubble through the oil.

I add close to a quart to get to the fill line.

Thanks so much for all the responses. I will have the shaft balanced and see what happens.

Hi folks. Would anyone know the rear spring u bolt nut torque on a 1950 Dodge Meadowbrook? (D34) My shop manual says 62-69 ft-lb on one page and 75-79 on another.

Yes on both counts, I filled the OD with Diesel engine oil from Amsoil provided by George Asche when I bought the trans from him and the wheels and tires are branks new and balanced.

Hi folks. Can I get some opinions on the causes of a high speed vibration between 60 and 70 MPH on my 1950 Dodge Meadowbrook? Now that I have an overdrive from Mr Asche, I am able to drive at faster speeds since the engine does not labor as much and with these new found long legs, i notices a high frequency vibration felt through the seat that peaks at ~65 and by 70 and beyond, goes away. I suspect the drive shaft, which has the original ball and trunnions. The car has 75K original miles and besides the new trans is stock. I hope it's not the 'new' trans .

Hi. I have recently bought a rebuilt R7 overdrive trans from Mr. Asche. He recommends 15W40 Amsoil Diesel engine oil for it. It's hard to find. Any recommendations? Shouldn't I use manual trans fluid for this?

Thanks for the replies. I feel better that it's just bad design and not bad execution on my part So, would a Stromberg be any better?

Hi folks. My 50 Meadowbrook's carb (Carter BB) works great. I rebuilt it with a napa kit and the car runs just fine. However, it always seems to be wet. I thought it was oil leaking from the air cleaner, so I removed it, sprayed the carb with brake cleaner and sure enough it looked wet again after I started the engine. I removed the top cover, thinking maybe the float was too high, maybe causing the fuel to leak past the top gasket and no, the fuel level was about 3/8" below the gasket surface. I removed the gasket and dried the sealing surface and the fuel seemed to wick itself in, making the surface wet again. When I rebuilt the carb, I let it soak in one of those cans of carb cleaner overnight. Could it be that these carbs had a coating of some sealing compound to seal porosity that the solvent striped away? I noticed that most of the carb, including the cast iron base is always wet. No fuel leakage, though. Any thoughts?

Thanks for all the responses

Hi folks. I am wondering if anyone here has had this issue with the oil bath air filter. When I fill mine to the stamped fill line with the prescribed 50 weight oil, the engine sucks it out (big smoke cloud) to a lower level. Also, the carb always seems to be wet with oil. Am I missing something? I am about to cut up the upper portion with the filter media and adapt a paper filter. Any tips appreciated.

Hi. Does anyone know of a vendor that would sell rebuild kits for these dual fuel/vacuum pumps?

Hi. I own a 1950 Dodge Meadowbrook and I purchased a 1940 (R7) rebuilt R 7 overdrive from Mr. Asche in Venus, PA. (great guy). I personally like it a lot. It was a bolt on to my Meadowbrook and is simpler than the R10. It has a centrifugal OD 'switch' that, if the the overdrive cable is 'in', allows it to engage at around 45 MPH. For passing, there is a solenoid that will disengage it, if powered by the throttle or any other means you come up with to power it. It is different from the R 10 in that the means of activation of the OD is mechanical, with the solenoid only being powered for disengage it. The R10's overdrive is engaged by powering on the solenoid and the kickdown button disangages it. I also have read that the R10 engages the OD at a lower speed, around 23-30 MPH. Oh, it's side loader and even that part was a direct bolt in to my Dodge. As far as value, Asche charged me ~$200 less for it and it does have less wiring.