Merle Coggins

Good to know that Joe got his RV unstuck. It was a bit of an ordeal getting a wrecker out there to pull him out. 

On 4/8/2024 at 9:45 AM, desoto1939 said:

Also make sure you replenish your gas tank with fresh ai because of all of the stale air that has been settling to bottom of your gas tank will have made the gas heavy and will not allow it to flow upto your carb.

 

Rich Hartung

It's also good to change out the air in your tires from winter air to summer air. 

I didn’t think it was too difficult when I did my Rusty Hope upgrade. If you have access to a good drill press you can drill and tap the spindles without much issue. If not you’ll have to rely on a shop to do that. I think the spindle nuts gave me the most grief, but I made it work. 

I was out in the garage yesterday, shuffling things around and wrapping up a couple of smaller projects and I decided it was a good time to fire up the truck and let it run a bit. I switched on my priming pump for a bit, then gave it a crank. Fired right up and settled into a nice idle. To many other vehicles in the way to get it out for a drive, but it was tempting. 

Wasn’t a D25 an import version of the Plymouth P15 in Dodge trim? If so it’s likely the 25” version of the 230 CID engine. It may have come out of a Fargo, but it would have originally been in a Dodge car. 

That video is me. I didn’t have a YouTube channel at the time, so Tim posted it on his and shared it on the forum. 

Yes, the inner fenders come out, and in, through the top. It’s a tight fit, and you will need to wiggle it around to find the right angles. Be careful though. I ended up scratching the paint on the firewall a little bit. 

Good one Brent… 

Flights and hotels are booked. See y’all there… 

Nice... That's what we call a "DuPont Overhaul". 

I want to say 1 inch, but I'm not 100% sure on that. 

I wouldn't try that on our ice right now. It's been so mild lately that the ice is pretty soft, and disappearing fast. Our big sturgeon spearing season kicks this weekend on Lake Winnebago (largest inland lake in Wisconsin), and other upstream lakes on the Fox River chain. There is much concern about the ice conditions with everyone that will be out there. 

I got that from them a couple years ago and I downloaded everything I had there and saved it to an external storage. I then canceled my account with Photobucket. I didn't see enough benefit with their service to warrant paying for it. 

Good to know. All of the ones I've dealt with had conditioner. 

Those coolant filters used on diesel engines have a conditioning agent in them to replace depleted chemicals in the coolant to extend it's life and keep internal corrosion at bay. They may also do some filtering of debris, but their primary purpose is to recondition the coolant. 

On 2/2/2024 at 10:02 AM, lostviking said:

... From what I've read, smaller bores change the firmness of the pedal. I can't remember which way...

Today's physics lesson... Basic Hydraulics...

PSI = Pounds per Square Inch, or Pounds/Sq. In.

I'll use a 1 inch bore and a 3/4 inch bore as examples. So first we have to find the square inch surface area of the piston using the pie are square (π × r² ) formula. 

1" bore = 0.5" radius. 0.5 X 0.5 = 0.25 X 3.14 = 0.785 square inches of surface area. 

3/4" bore = 0.375" radius. 0.375 X 0.375 = 0.14 X 3.14 = 0.44 square inches of surface area. 

If I were to exert 50 pounds of force on the master cylinder piston with my foot how much pressure will be generated? 

50 lbs. / 0.785 sq. in. = 63.7 PSI with the 1 inch bore. (metric conversion; 22.7 kilos = 4.4 Bar)

50 lbs. / 0.44 sq. in. = 113.6 PSI with the 3/4 inch bore.  (metric conversion; 22.7 kilos = 7.8 Bar)

So, as you can see, the smaller bore will create more braking pressure with the same pedal force. Or, you could say it will take less leg force to generate the same braking force. However, as alluded to, the smaller bore will move less fluid so it will take a longer pedal stroke to apply the brakes. So it comes down to will a smaller bore master cylinder displace enough brake fluid before bottoming out to apply your brakes safely, yet apply more pressure at the same leg effort? Or do you need a larger bore to get the fluid displacement required, and need a little more leg effort to achieve the braking force needed.

Looks like someone may have cut off the back half to make a trailer. 

Hey Ed, you want to borrow my bucket seat for a test drive? ?

It should be stamped into the frame, just ahead of the left front tire. You may have to do some gentle cleaning/sanding to find it. It should be an 8 digit number, likely starting with an 8

21 hours ago, keithb7 said:

The big thaw is happening around here. We haven't seen the sun in several days. We got a lot snow 10 days ago and at the current rate may all be gone in a few days. Its washing all the ice melt away. Positive spring vibes!

Kind of like that around here too. The big show fall we had, just before the polar vortex, is melting away fast. We had mid 40’s here yesterday. 

I don’t believe there is an o-ring at the pick-up screen connection. As for that other o-ring instruction, that is correct. The rear main cap has a groove on either side that needs to be filled with pieces of that o-ring to seal the seam between the cap and the block. This is part of the rear main seal system as the cap is flush with the back of the block. You don’t want oil seeping out through that seam, which isn’t captured by the rear main seal. 

If you had to modify the points spring to make it fit, you probably don't have it installed correctly. One time I didn't get the points spring anchored properly and the copper strap was the only thing making tension for the points. It would start and idle just fine, but when I tried to drive it, it would sputter and loose power at higher RPM. I went back and retraced my steps and discovered my mistake on the points spring. After correcting that it ran great again. Without a properly installed spring the points will bounce at higher RPM and greatly effect the dwell, and ignition timing. 

10 hours ago, RobertKB said:

Here’s the forecast ??‍? for where I live, Lethbridge, Alberta. We have had a very mild winter so far thanks to El Niño. However, for some reason, we are going to suffer due to a Polar Vortex occurring.

 

That polar vortex is due to hit us next week. This week we're having a fair amount of snow events. Next week they forecast negative temps, but no more snow, which is good for my wife as I'll be out of town and she won't have to shovel. I don't mind the cold either, as I can dress for it. However, I'm glad I don't have to work out in it full time as I did when I was younger. 

1 hour ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

we got four season....warm and dry, warm and dry with bugs. wet and cold, weld and cold with bugs....!

Around here you could say we have only 2 seasons... shovelin' and swattin' 

1 hour ago, cheesy said:

Nah, I like four seasons.

Me too... Oddly enough, I even like the snow. 

2 hours ago, Dave72dt said:

With our first substantial snowfall of the season, not having to be anywhere at any particular time or anything that absolutely has to be done, I can watch the accumulation from the warm side of the windows or go outside and push the snow around at my leisure, go to the garage and do some work on the truck, or sit in the recliner with a cup of coffee, work a crossword, surf the net, a little TV.  Lots of choices available and none that need to be done right now.   I did scrape about 3 " of snow off the driveway early this morning, about another inch at least has since fallen and still snowing hard, wind from the east, temp at 31F so it's not that cold.   I may clear it again in a couple of hours. Once it quits and the trucks make some headway on the streets, I'll go out clear the driveway and maybe forego my daily walk.

 

It's been pretty minimal up by me, so far. It looks like it snowing much more down your way. 

16 minutes ago, plymouthcranbrook said:

And here in Northeast Il. I am hoping all the snow stays south and west and we just continue have the rainy wet snowlike stuff that so far has melted upon contact with the ground.  

It looks like you guys are getting mostly rain out of this storm, at least for now. 

You should be able to get 55+ out of your truck with the 4.10 gears, although the engine will be close to max. RPM's. Replacement gear sets for these axles are non-existent. You can find a differential assembly from a Plymouth, Dodge, DeSoto, or Chrysler car from the same era, that has a suitable gear ratio. There was a change in spline count for the axle shafts and side gears some time in the early 50's, but otherwise they're a direct swap. I have a 3.73 diff from a '50 Plymouth in my truck. Or you'll have to go with a more modern axle from a Jeep Cherokee, or similar. I have no experience with this type of swap but I've seen many here that have done it. The Cherokee seems to be the favored one.