Don St Peter

Lou: I'm satisfied that fuel is not present in oil. When I bought the car about 5 years ago I replaced a blown head gasket, but for reasons I won't bore you with, I did not check or do other engine work as the engine started and ran and did not sound bad. I did not even do compression checks. Low oil pressure was noted once I got it otherwise up and running with new points, plugs, condenser, distributor, carb, fuel system, etc. and all guages installed. I know for a fact that after installing the NOS oil guage, that the line attached directly to the back of the instrument panel monted guage was shooting oil to the guage good. It was about a year ago that I found and installed an oil filter. At the time it seemed the already low oil pressure was still low by about the same amount. Sounds as if I should do an oil change to 20 W 50 and monitor things. I'm in Florida and the car will operate here in warmer weather most all the time. In your opinion should I add a quart of STP, or equilivant to my 30W oil now to see what happens before changing oil. I've been told adding such stuff could cause old carbon dsposits to break loose, cause smoking, burn more oil, etc. Sounds like old wives tales from your experience. I do not recalling seeing 20W50 oil on the shelves around here, but intend to find out. Sounds like I should delay a fairly long trip with the car until I better know the condition. Thanks for the Help. Don

Lou: I followed your tip on using a pick up magnet and it worked like a charm. I now also better understand (after seeing the piston) how the relief system works. Unfortunately the low oil pressure persists at all speeds after the engine is warm. At 25 to 30 MPH it registers about 1/2 way to the 20 PSI mark on the oil guage. As I do not know the guage accuracy, I'm guessing maybe less than 10 PSI. I can tell you that the needle base is painted red and the red shows through the small viewing window. Thanks for your continued good input on all subjects! Don

Thanks for the input. I checked my oil pressure relief valve spring and it appears to be in good shape. The service manual mentions different color springs and cautions to replace with like color. My spring is not colored so I am going to assume it is the right one. Jim mentioned that a broken spring in his case was relieving the pressure on the piston that controls the oil pressure. Is there some way to check to insure that the piston itself is free to move and not stuck? Can someone explain to me how this relief valve system works as my manuals do not go into it? I did add an oil filter to my car as it did not have that option installed. I am certain that it is installed properly. Thank You Don

My 40 Ply. engine runs great but oil pressure drops from about 40 PSI ( guage reading cold engine) to near zero after warmed up. I use 30W non detergent oil. It does not smoke much at all. Should I be concerned about the low pressure and do something as a precaution. Thanks in Advance Don

Lou: About a year ago one was able to buy individual cylinders from both Burnbaum and Roberts, but now ( as you probably know ) they only sell all four together. When I bought mine I needed all four, so no big deal. I searched for a new or NOS for my right wheel since I still have a leak past the rubber even after 3 kits. The only ones that do a single cyl. sale is White Post Restorations 540 837 1140 as far as I have found. So far I have been living with the leaky brake. My 1940 Parts list shows part number 857062 for front right and 857063 for front left. Good Luck PS: You were very helpful on my task of Steering gear removal, rebuild and reinstallation several months ago. Thanks for that also.

Guess I did not communicate fully and completely. I did a " complete" brake job less than a year ago, including all new cylinders, etc. etc. I have had slight but continuous leaking on the rt. front since the new job and have decided ( after 3 new kits ) that I have a bad Rt. wheel cylinder, hence I am looking for only the front rt. cyl for my 1940 P-9. Both Bernbaum and Roberts have changed their policy in the past year and no longer sell individual cylinders, only all four. NAPA does not go back that far. Thanks Don

I only need the rt. front brake cyl. for my 40 ply and find that both Roberts Parts and Bernbaum now only sell all four as a set. Does anyone know how to get only what I need? Thanks Don

I finally bit the bullet & purchased a completely rebuilt ( to original specs ) carb. for my 40 Ply. After carb. installation and adjusting the throttle screw to what seems to be 400 to 500 engine RPMs, then the idle screw adjustment to smooth, and then the throttle screw again with engine hot as instructed, the engine will not return to proper low idle unless I tap the gas pedal slightly. Once I do that it idles back down. Is this normal or am I missing something here. Thanks in Advance Don

Can someone tell me why sometimes my posts do not show up on the fourm. Also, how does one attach a picture to a post. Thanks Don

On my 40 Ply., my guage was sticking above 160 deg regularily. I then determined that the needle was sticking and/or rubbing against the glass around that point. Adjusting ( bending slightly) the needle fixed the problem. Don

No one has yet mentioned that if all checks out otherwise, the guage may need to be calibrated by using the procedure of para 13 page 130 of the Ply. service manual. I had very similar problems of mis-indication untill doing the calibration. Now it is right on. Don

I have done a "complete" new brake job, including new wheel cyls, hoses, rubber etc. Three times now I had a small leak from the rt. fwd. cyl. wherein the fluid is seeping past the rubbers. I am using DOT 5 and have replaced the rubbers each time even though no visible damage is there. The new cyl. bore seems smooth to the touch and I'm puzzled. Could it be that the new cyl. is faulty? None of the other wheels leaked. Don

I have a 40 Ply with the stock flat head 6 and do not use additive and have been told countless time that it is not necessary since the valve seats are hardened. Don

After a COMPLETE brake job, Even with my new cylinders and rubbers, I still have slight DOT 5 fluid leaking past the cyl. end caps. Guess I replace rubbers once more. Does someone have a better way to remove, and install the springs other than that silly tool thats suposed to make it easier? Also ant thoughts on tricks to stop fluid leaks past the rubbers? Thanks Don

By experience and for safety sake LEAVE the axle nut loosely engaged on the threads so the drum does not fly off at 100MPH when it comes loose. Don

On my Ply P-9 there is a hex head screw that is accessible through the hole at the 6:00 position of the dash board. The screw once removed allows the switch to be removed from the back side. Good Luck Don

Wheel cylinders were the thing I attacked first. All new wheel cylinder from Burnbaum and all new kits (twice ) from Roberts. Still ...... leaks Don

I swear, it's got me "befuddled". After a "complete" brake job, meaning new wheel cyls, new cyl kits, etc. I have great brakes, until the fluid slowly leaks out of 2 of the 4 brake cylinders. I've replaced cylinder kits 2 times now and I have confirmed the fluid is leaking past the rubber. I am using DOT 5 since consulting with others prior to the job led me to use it due to moisture considerations. Has anyone else been faced with the issue and come up with a solution as I am getting tired of buying fluid and bleeding brakes all the time. Don

Thanks for all the opinions. I'm waiting..... NO added holes. Thanks Don

I'm attempting to installing an "optional" front grill guard on my 40 Ply, but will need to drill two new holes in my chromed bumper to accept an 18" hole pattern as opposed to the existing 22". I would then fill the old holes with bumper bolts, assuming I can find some. Can anyone tell me if I can drill through the hardened material without messing up the chrome and what I best use? Thanks in Advance

I'm looking for someone to do the wheel stripes for my 40 Ply. Your comment about "buying some stripes" for your wheels leads me to believe there are some decals ( or the like ) out there for purchase. Is this true? Thanks Don

I recently went thru the same situation on my 40 and found that the carb float was set to high. Don

I just went thru the same thing as described below. 2 to 1 it's an insifficient grounding problem in the end. Don

Roadrunner: Thanks for the pic and the "dizzy" explaination. I tried posting a before and after of my 40 but image exceeded posting limit. Looks like you have a project car there! Thanks Don

Norm: I just went through the fuel guage issue. As a matter of interest I learned in the "process" that the fuel guage I found ( NOS) needed calibration as it was not registering accurately. Upon adjusting per the service manual, I now have the satisfaction of a functioning and accurate guage. Good Luck Don