Bobacuda

Hooked the pressure gauge and code reader to the truck before re-opening the trans and changing the governor (again) and the pressure transducer- all readings are now correct.  Go figure.  Anyhow, the beast is shifting, but has to be coaxed into overdrive the first time as JBNeal said or by decelerating, then accelerating the first time you top a hill (plenty of those around here).

Front suspension did even out when the beast was back on the ground.

While you are at it, what is the number for the carb?  On the photo you posted, it will be stamped on one side or the other, just out of the photo's range, on that "fin" that connects to the "barrel" of the carb.

Take a photo of just the part needed, sitting on or near a ruler for measurements.  I might have one on one of my parts carbs.

Does it say "Free candy and puppies inside!"...?

Young mechanic I know tells me that the "lean" will zero out when the suspension is on the ground and loaded.  Just replace the worn out parts and all will be well.  In any event, this was a new one on me.

The "how to drive it mods" did not help.  I installed the "magic wire" with the capacitor and rerouted the ground wire away from the alternator, which helped for a while (stopped the shift in/shift out issues).  Several months later, it simply refused to go into OD or to lock up the torque converter.  We replaced the fluid, filter, OD and TCC relay (one piece) and the pressure governor.  The new gov did not seem to want to fit right.  Once it was all back in place, the pressure in the trans would not exceed 60 lbs - in fact it decreased to 38 lbs at higher RPMS.  We will change out the gov with a new one (again) and change the transducer to it as well.  If we get all of that functioning and it still doesn't work, it's on to the TPS next.

The more I work on this, the more I like my flathead.

And a close up of one side.

Another try at attaching photos.

OK, my daughter's boyfriend's truck has proven to be a real PITA for me.  While doing a ton of overlooked maintenance and trying to get the automatic transmission to shift properly and go into overdrive, I noticed the front swaybar end links were "leaning" to the side.  WTF?  I was going to replace the front suspension parts (drag link, tie rod , track bar and those links) but seeing the "lean" caught me totally off guard.  What causes this and how do I fix it.

BTW, replacing the steering box (a 1 - 2 hr job according to YouTube) only took me closer to 6 hours...and a messed up lower back.

Dodge 2500 front suspension.docx

https://dcmclassics.com/44-1939-1947-dodge-truck has them.

I think I have told this on this site once before.  My brother and I bought a '41 Plymouth (with only 38,000 miles )in '65 from its original owner.  The lady (husband had died and she was in her late 70's) decided that she was no longer a safe driver.  When we got the car home, we cleaned it front to back and took out the rear seat to make sure that there were no mice nests.  There, we found a large pair of "granny panties."   My brother, being the joker he is put them in a bag and brought them back to the lady.  She opened the bag, laughed and said, "I wondered where those went.  My husband used my old panties to wax the car."

Later, we had the car up on a lift to rebuild the master cylinder.  There we found a Chrysler Corp. box end wrench with the main brake line running through it to the MC.  Whoever installed the brake line at the factory grabbed the box end rather than a line-wrench and did not take the brake line off to remove the box end.  We put the box end back in place after rebuilding the MC and told the next owner about it when we sold the car.

One last note on that car.  The original owners bought the car and a "vacation package" at the local dealer.  What that entailed was Plymouth set them up with a hotel room where the car was built (Detroit?) and told them when to be there.  Once there, a tour guide walked them through the assembly line as their car was put together.  When finished, they took delivery, put a tow bar on it, and towed it back to Texas behind a Model A - they didn't want to put those miles on their new car.  Can you imagine a car company doing a "vacation package" today?

But it hits it much less...

This one shows both sides of the hood on the overflow line.

Bright idea time - if you are having a radiator shop boil out your radiator,have them move the overflow line further back toward the engine where it won't get crushed.  You can see in my last photo about how far you would have to move it.

This is the current fit - still tight.

I took some new photos showing the radiator in place.  This is a replacement radiator (which works GREAT) from U.S. Radiator.  It is a direct bolt in.

Here's another.  I will look for some with the radiator in place.

I found a couple of photos after the radiator was removed.  I will have to load them separately.  BTW, my hood had the same cracks everyone else is talking about, and the overflow line was somewhat flattened, but nothing that could not be lived with.

Rambler's life history.  It is a local (New Braunfels, TX) 97K original miles car.

Rambler under the hood

"62 Rambler. 

Buick info, if anyone is interested

More Buick

I went to the New Braunfels (TX) swap meet this past week end.  Always a good one.  Unfortunately, no old Mopar stuff; however there were two really nice driver's in the Car Corral - a '63 Buick convertible (V6) and a '62 Rambler convertible (with a great history).  Asking $7K for the Buick and $10K for the Rambler.  The photos will take me several posts

My son saved the phone number for Brent...