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Posts posted by RobertKB
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3 hours ago, Sniper said:
Sorry to hear of your troubles and hopefully all ends well. You are a definite asset to the forum.
To me, “getting old” means you didn’t die young or middle aged. I’m 73 next month but I still don’t consider myself old. I have had and likely will put up with other medical issues but “carpe diem” as best you can.
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Cool video! Thanks for posting. If you did it in car, you would still have to drop the crank to avoid any shavings getting where they shouldn’t.
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Yes, engine was still in the car. Very slight ridge was removed before pulling pistons. Pulled pan and removed rod caps. Bearings were plastic gauged and were right in the middle of factory specs so the old girl still has all original bearings. Oil pressure has always been super. Pistons at that time looked good and re-used. New head gasket but head was not machined. This was like 40 years ago and it’s run well since……touch wood. Maybe I just got lucky but I had help from an old mechanic who was in the same car club.
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You’d be welcome here anytime. I have been to NZ many years ago, mainly the North Island. Beautiful country!
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Actually second drive as I had my ‘51 Dodge out last week. However, I had my ‘53 Plymouth Belvedere out today for the first time in 2022. We had snow and cold on Monday but another Chinook (see earlier post) arrived and it was 11C (52F) today. Roads were great. It felt a little cool as it was quite windy but the car has a great heater.
The 4-Door ‘53 Belvedere was a Canadian only car as far as I know. This one is a survivor including original paint. It has a few scratches and some gravel rash but is pretty good for 102,000+ miles. It had rings and the valves lapped about 30,000 miles ago and still runs strong and uses very little oil. I’ve owned the car since 1975.
If you look above the roof in the second picture you can easily see the Rocky Mountains. Although I live on the prairies of southern Alberta, the mountains are only about 80 miles away as the crow flies.
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Bad rear axle bearing?
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This is why I like getting old cylinders, which were usually made in the US or Canada, sleeved. The new ones made elsewhere are often just not quite right.
I’m think the ones with the more space between fittings are right. I agree having matching cylinders is best. Others with more knowledge will likely chime in.
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Hand cranking to start, even the thought of it, scares the bejeebers outta me. I know the way you’re supposed to keep your thumb folded but I have heard too many horror stories of broken thumbs, arms, even legs. I know lots of people have done it hundreds, if not thousands of times, without injury. I’ve even done it a couple of times but I brought spare underwear just in case. ?
I know you just want to turn your engine over……..that I could do.
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Very interesting and unusual cars. Thanks for posting!
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1 hour ago, Young Ed said:
The even # part number should be the right hand.
Very interesting to know. I’ve dealt with part numbers for decades and never figured this out. Thanks for posting! -
Dodgeb4ya, aka Rob, you are probably one of, if not the most, helpful person on this forum. Please don’t get dissolutioned. Your knowledge of these old Mopars is encyclopedic and you have helped countless people, including me.
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Nearest muffler shop will have hangers that will work. Most auto supply places also. Always think local first.
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I have used White Post for several cars and highly recommend them. Not cheap but great work. Check their website out for costs. I just sent complete cylinders and they come back ready to bolt on and look like brand new but will use the old internals if good. All rubber brand new. I’ve never had an issue. Turn around time was super fast also.
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I know that when I ordered a headliner it asked if it took five or six bows as I guess there was a change at some point. Hopefully you didn’t order the wrong headliner. I would go back to the company you ordered from and double-check to see again what they offered. If you have six bows there should be six seams to hold the bows.
Sixth bow does not go as shown in my opinion. It should go up toward the roof I would have thought.
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22 minutes ago, Bryan said:
And I complain about 30F..?
It all depends where you live. I see you’re in South Carolina. 30F is balmy for us this time of year.I remember being in Maui a few years ago. It was about 60F and we were on an early morning snorkel trip. Boat crew were in sweaters and jackets. We were in shorts and t-shirts.
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Back to winter reality! ? The ‘51 Dodge tucked back in the heated garage with a stable mate.
I included a picture of a dual scale thermometer for those unfamiliar with Celsius. Only time they’re the same is at -40.
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Might be a while before I can get a car out again. VERY windy right now and forecast is for snow and then blowing snow and cold for the next couple of days. However, long range looks pretty good. I’m hoping!
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4 minutes ago, sidevalvepete said:
That car always looks so great pictured out in the scenery like that.?
Thanks!
I’m lucky I live very close the the edge of town. Actually city of 100,000. I can be out in the country in five minutes.
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Roads up here get lots of chemicals. However, the only moisture the car saw was in the alley behind my garage which never sees chemicals or a plow. All roads the car went on were dry due to the Chinook (see above).
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We’ve had some quite cold and snowy weather the last while. But I live in southern Alberta and we get the occasional break from Old Man Winter. This is usually the result of a Chinook which we’ve had the last four days. https://crownofthecontinent.net/entries/chinook-wind/5e27ff51-2b63-46b9-9c1f-068abda9be03 Today was 10C or 50F for those south of the border. It was great to get one of the old cars out!
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I watched 15-20 minutes. Same as BJ auctions. Some very nice cars and lots of buyers with more money than sense. As already mentioned it makes people think their old pile of rusty junk is worth thousands and not the scrap value, or slightly better, it’s really worth.
I’d like to know how many of those cars with paint jobs alone worth tens of thousands, actually get driven in the real world. I bet I have more fun with my often driven antiques of very modest value!
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Congratulations, Keith! Exciting times! I watched the video and the engine sounds great and I was not surprised it fired immediately. As mentioned, I'd get a radiator hooked up before firing again. A brand new rebuilt engine runs pretty hot the first couple of cycles and doesn't take long to get hot.
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I don’t know why but the 251 has always been my favourite CID of the Mopar flatheads.
My ‘48 Dodge D25 club coupe has a 251 from a 1956 two or 2 1/2 ton grain truck. Was originally 12 volt but has run on 6 volts quite happily for the last 40 years. All Canadian Mopars from mid-1938 onward had the long block so easy fit. Freshly painted a few years ago after doing some manifold work. A little grubbier now.
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Dodgeb4ya, aka Rob, you truly have a wealth of information. Even better, you are always willing to share it. This thread is proof if any was needed!
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Having trouble putting on hubcaps.
in P15-D24 Forum
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Don’t waste your time with oil or grease. Won’t make any difference. Hubcaps either fit of they don’t. For my dog dish hubcaps I usually get one side started and then using the heel of my palm I give it a good rap on the higher side and it pops on. I once worked on a ‘47 Chrysler and one cap would not fit but the other three all went on that rim. Upon looking closer, there was a slight difference. Maybe DeSoto was the same. Try an NOS one.