jsd245

It’s turning over pretty slow for a new battery. You say new wires- I assume you mean plug wires. But if you replaced the battery cables ,6 volt battery cables are much thicker than the normal 12 volt wires you will find at the typical auto parts store. They have to carry twice the amperage as a 12 volt. They need to be 00 gauge vs 4 gauge for a 12 volts. Make sure they weren’t replaced with too small cables. The ones on my truck are huge. Also make sure all the connections are sound and clean. Seems like the starter can’t pull the amperage it needs.

Right- no pump. Duh. I was just thinking fan, but of course the pump wasn’t turning either! Yeah. Definitely think it needs the bearings replaced then. Might as well change the brushes while I’m at it. Doesn’t look extremely difficult.

So I changed the filters, set the points, adjusted the carb and the truck runs and idles very nicely. However I was hearing a noise- tough to describe, definitely something rotating, rumbling sort of. It resonates a bit. Loud enough to notice. So with the old screwdriver to the ear trick I narrowed it down to the generator. I took the belt off so it was turning any more and sure enough noise was gone. The engine purrs and with no generator or fan turning it is very quiet. Quieter than my 2014. You can hear the valve train a bit, but that’s it. This engine seems to be in very good condition. The more I run it the more I am convinced it has very few miles and the 26k on the odometer is accurate. Generator is charging fine, I didn’t feel any play in the shaft. I put a few drops of oil in each oil cup which didn’t seem to make a difference when I put the belt back on. Is this just how noisy these generators are, or is the generator on borrowed time? I occurred to me that when I run my portable generator the generator head itself has a distinct and separate sound from the motor, definitely noticeable. Am I hearing the same sort of thing? another thing I noted is how quickly the engine heated up with no fan. I thought because it was fairly cold it would take a while. The temp gauge works on this truck. Normally running at high the temp is basically just rising a bit above the bottom line. With no fan the temp was in the middle of the gauge in just a few minutes. I have yet to actually drive this truck other than around my driveway because I need to rebuild the master and have no brakes, so I don’t know yet where the temp goes under load.

Anyone know where to find another one of these? Or just the red button? Mine seems to have broken at some point before I got the truck. Thanks to the part number Brent supplied I found one on EBay!

Generally the bypass filter on a diesel is a much higher filtration, and it is in addition to the normal full flow filter. On these- they look like essentially a normal oil filter, and I guess 30% of the oil flow is diverted through them? So they don't do nothing, but the oil is exposed to 70% less filtration than a normal full flow filter. I think better than nothing, so I will leave it in place and pay the 15 bucks or so every year when I change the oil.

Given that it will certainly be time and not mileage that dictates oils changes, yes maybe these bypass filters don't do much, but its there, so I may as well change it.

Thanks! Makes sense.

It’s me again… so I opened up the oil filter on the truck- it has the metal encased cartridge that’s about 3.5 x 4”. Should this can have oil in it? Almost looks like it should drain empty when the truck is off. When I pull the filter out it remains about 1/2 full of oil.

Thanks Brent. That makes it pretty easy.

The PO was kind enough to include the kit-piston is 1.5” so appears to be the right one. Hopefully it’s not too far gone to rebuild. Looks like a new one is pretty pricey. I like to use a pressure bleeder- these master cylinders seem to have a threaded plug which I don’t have any kind of adapter for. Anyone know what the thread is on these?

I’m not getting the hint hint nudge nudge? Think that booster is undersized for the master?

Yep looks the same! Apparently it’s been rebuilt. When I get a chance to rebuild the master I guess I’ll see. It’s got what is clearly fresh foam in the breather so hopefully rebuilt. Definitely not the one I see most often on these- I wonder if it was not stock and it was a dealer add on? What did the one in your picture come from?

Sorry- all set now

Valves are unstuck. It was actually#1 and #2 exhaust valves which was perplexing given I had air and fuel coming out of the carb. She runs really smooth. Surprising really. https://youtu.be/LBkvyj9z6tc

22.5 is a better fit. A 9r22.5 almost exactly matches the 8.25-20

Thanks-

Its an Anthony company. Unfortunately the PO snapped the input shaft- so I have to fix that. I attached the pictures he sent.

Well I know which ones are stuck. cylinder 1 and two have zero compression. With air and fuel blowing out of the carb I have to assume its intake valves. Soaking in MMO right now. This shouldn't be that badly stuck. It was running as late as 2016. Its not like it sat around for 30 years in a field.

I've thought a bit about that. I'm kind of leaning towards wanting to put an original under cab tank in- but I'm not sure if any of the aftermarket available one will fit. The parts book shows different part numbers for the bigger truck tanks than the 1\2 tons. Yet that saddle tank is pretty convenient and I think it looks kind of cool. Its also a 30 gallon tank vs the roughly 19 I guess an original tank would be. But I guess I'd need to figure out a sending unit. All the gauges work on this truck except the fuel gauge because its not hooked up to anything.

128” wheel base.

What’s left of the driver side headliner has a bunch of hash marks on it, the story I was told, was that each time the farmer went to get sand for the cranberry bog at the local gravel bank he would put a mark up there. There are probably 150 marks.

The inside is rough- the truck will need some work to be serviceable. It is solid enough for a start. Plan is to restore this to an extent with my son- hopefully teaching him something about cars and engines. I’ve got all the parts that are stripped off- but a few things are going to be problematic, like the parking light grill inserts. Ive got them but they are rusted away pretty badly and it looks like they will be tough to replace. Interesting on this- the booster is mounted on the firewall in the engine compartment. It’s not the correct one that mounts under the bed. Not sure why, but the PO had it rebuilt. He essentially replaced every brake component lines, everything except, for the master cylinder, he said he still had soft brakes. He had a master cylinder rebuild kit for it, so I need to do that and hopefully the brakes will be OK. But first I need those valves unstuck. I’m actually surprised how good it runs with two cylinders with zero compression.

So, I got her home! Truck is solid, rust here and there but not a total rust bucket. Frame is 100%. the story is it spent it’s entire life on a cranberry farm in Massachusetts . Odometer says around 26,000 miles. I guess I have to assume it’s 126,000 but I’m not so sure given how it was used. Maybe it’s only 26,000? Last transfer Station sticker on it was 2014 so it was probably on the road then. Guy I got it from bought it in 2016 but never moved forward with the project he had planned for it. He actually posted a couple times on here. It had a dump body on it, but I want to put a stake side flatbed on it so I didn’t take it. I kept all the dump mechanism, maybe will make it a dump flatbed. I actually got it fired up today- but it’s not running great and is blowing air and fuel out of the carb. Zero compression on two cylinders so my assumption is sticking Intake valves. Stay tuned!

Thanks. That seems right for these other wheels

I guess I misphrased that-I’m looking for the measurement of the hole in the center of the wheel - theses wheels that are an option have a 5.875 hole-