Marty C

Help! my right wheel bearing froze and welded itself to the spindle and the entire spindle snapped! Thank God the wheel did not come off until I pulled over and jacked up the car and when that happened the wheel just fell off!! Question : does anybody know if the spindle i.e. steering knuckle is the same on both sides? There is one on eBay and it says left-hand however I need the passenger side, which is the right hand!!

Oh ok 6 hours drive time for me

Yes , Why?

Robert was the parts car in Vermont?

Update: I found a complete parts car about 6 hour drive from me for not a lot of money. Car is in my body shop and was appraised by an outside party hired by Hagerty. Just waiting to see what they are going to give me. I’ll post a few shots of my parts car.

I think the stopped car has no energy in it! my car traveling about 20/25 had all the energy hence more damage! Her Volvo was higher than mine, and I was trying to avoid her so my left headlight hit her taillight . There isn’t much behind the headlight so it crumpled like a cheap suit. My bumper never got hit!

Very little damage busted taillight !! 2000 Volvo

Not sure how to go about asking for parts! is it allowed in this forum? I clicked on classified section and they asked for my credit card!! I never give out my card unless I’m buying an actual part! please help don’t know where to start

That’s what I’m going to do!! thank you for confirming you just tighten the nut!! a perfect way to off waiting for a tow!!

That’s the first one that blew on me!! it tilted out left me stranded when I got towed back, I tapped it back in. Then covered the entire area with JBweld certainly not the correct way but it lasted then 2 other ones blew at various times not the ones with JB weld!! so after the last one I put JB weld on that one and also the remaining two ! I do have a set of new Welch plugs and the correct anaerobic sealer to do the job the right way. But for now the JB weld is holding perfectly!

Thank you Farmer

Oh ok thank you I shall get a set and keep in the glove box

Rubber? they looked like brass to me (Dorman) but the nut seems to be on the wrong side so I’m not sure how to install them you tube search just yielded modern plugs even when I listed the Dorman part number

Sniper , that Dorman 568010 set looks like you don’t have to pound them in !! looks to me like you just have to fit them in and tighten that nut! Is that right? have you used the Dorman ones?

Well I have to say all of my plugs are completely still rounded cone shaped NOT DIMPLED in now I’m sure they weren’t put in correctly!!

This is going to be hard with the engine in the car! Has anyone done all the freeze plug’s install with an engine in the car?

Yes I know the block was thoroughly cleaned , I saw it before it was assembled I’m sure they put all new plugs in tho I can’t be sure the engine runs quiet and smoothly and since the rebuild I’ve put on hundreds of miles without using any oil I personally think they didn’t use the proper sealer on the plugs just my opinion

Ok so you’re saying the the concave faces in towards engine? Yes that’s the way mine are the bubble side out. But you’re saying when you tap it in it’s supposed to flex In towards the engine??? i think you would have to really hit these hard to get these plugs to reverse the direction of the concave is this what you are saying is the correct way of installing them?

Sounds like it’s lean but actually I think it may be rich I only get 11 mpg im thinking it should be around 15 I know a rich condition when an engine is hot has the same effect as a lean engine I thought a spacer might help but I posted this spacer question before my engine overheated for the 3rd time!! with a new water pump thermostat fan and aluminum radiator!! I’m stumped as to why these freeze plugs are popping in the dead of summer?

Well I didn’t rebuild it myself but it was a reputable builder specializing in antique engines when I replaced the water pump I made sure it was there . I have a 160 thermostat I have Castrol 20-50 high zinc formula oil in it I replaced the 5 blade fan with an 8 blade fan i replaced the stock radiator with an aluminum one the cap I have installed is a new Gates 4 lb ive over heated with a 7 lb cap and now a 4 lb cap The engine has 3 times blew a freeze plug not sure if it’s overheating problem or a freeze plug problem the engine with all the latest upgraded parts runs normal (gauge in the center) and when stuck in bumper to bumper traffic gauge showed high normal and cooled down quickly when I started moving I thought but was fixed until this last issue yesterday in all 3 cases the freeze plug just tilted out from the top each one being a different one im very confused now

Yes I’m talking about a spacer between the carb and the manifold. My Carter AFB on my Pontiac 389 is used to help with hot starting and fuel vaporization with today’s fuel. it’s hard to explain the decrease in performance but the car just seems peppier when it’s cold. The car does run hot and I’ve replaced the water pump added an 8 blade fan and an aluminum radiator and sitting in traffic the temp creeps up to H until I start driving again. I’ve also had 3 different freeze plugs Pop when I was driving and didn’t notice the gauge was pegged on H the latest overheating issue just happened today. the timing is fully advanced (doesn’t ping) and the accelerator pump is in the middle hole and does shoot gas down the carb. I was just thinking a spacer might boost some hot engine performance as far as the freeze plugs popping , it’s a newly rebuilt engine and my fiend who is friends with the builder thinks I will need to change all the freeze plugs I do have an extra set I bought from Andy Birnbaum mopar parts

I noticed a slight decrease in engine performance when engine is hot Hos anyone added a spacer to their 1 bbl Stromberg carb on their 1952 Dodge Coronet flathead 6 ? if so which one?

Oh cool thanks I’d appreciate that!

I purchased a replacement side cover off of eBay because mine was cracked and leaking. I just noticed while repairing my reverse light wiring, I noticed the reverse light switch is mounted in the side cover! the cover I bought off of eBay doesn’t have the reverse light or a place to mount it. I thought I was buying the right one because my 1952 Dodge shop manual exploded GyroMatic parts diagram shows a side cover without the switch! I guess the question is Can I drill and tap a switch into the “new” cover? Or is there more parts that need to be added to the side cover to operate the switch? any help would be appreciated! thank you all in advance