Marty C

Thanks to Tom I cleaned the downshift “carb solenoid” and it FIXED my issue of not downshifting when coming to a stop! Thanks to Yom and EVERYONE who gave me suggestions for fixing my problem! I appreciate all the help!!

Tom I’m definitely going to pull the carb and make sure that plunger is clean!!! thank you so much for all your help! I’ll keep you posted on my progress!

I play drums mostly to Herb Alpert and the Tijuana Brass but I love the sound of trumpets I’m going to see Herb and his new band Tijuana Brass and Other Delights at Lincoln center in March on his 90th birthday on the 31st🎺🥁

Hi Tom the only switch on the carb that has a plunger in it is the dashpot solenoid. I think this is what you and Rufus are talking about. the kick-down switch is only contacted when you floor it! Not at all my problem. I think I only floored the gas once or twice in its life!! it’s an old girl and I don’t push her

Hydraulic oil

I know exactly how it’s supposed to work. The kickdown switch is supposed to kick the transmission from 4 to 34 added power while driving.. this has nothing to do with the issue. I am having. The transmission is supposed to automatically downshift to the low (3rd gear) before coming to a stop at a light! My transmission usually stays in high (4th gear) when I try to accelerate after the light turns green. In another words it doesn’t downshift! This has nothing to do with the lockdown switch !!

Tom and Rufus I just want to clarify both of you are hinting it’s the kick down switch, but I’m not really kicking it down to go into a passing gear ! it’s normal stop and go traffic that’s when I’m slowing down to a light or stop sign , once stopped, it’s still in 4th. When I start accelerating it goes a few feet then clunks into 3rd! it doesn’t shift into third by itself! NOTE it works properly for the first few miles of driving Once the transmission gets warmer is when this happens so it’s temperature related adding to my confusion

Hi Doug im positive the wiring is good it’s a brand new wiring harness , resistor pack thingy that mounts to carb and all new switches on carbs. If anything that has not been changed are the solenoids and governors there was an interruptor switch that was missing that I replaced with a new one from eBay I think you gave me the carb solenoid if my memory serves me!!😀

Hi Doug im positive the wiring is good it’s a brand new wiring harness , resistor pack thingy that mounts to carb and all new switches on carbs. If anything that has not been changed are the solenoids and governors there was an interruptor switch that was missing that I replaced with a new one from eBay I think you gave me the carb solenoid if my memory serves me!!😀

Damn I rewired all the solenoids and governor before I installed the carpet! now I have no access to the transmission inspection cover! Thank you, I cannot believe how complicated this tranny is for 1950’s technology!! Because the wiring and resistor pack is new, I’m guessing it may be that loose screw they talked about under that pipe plug

I’ve been driving my 52 Dodge for at least 2&1/2 years now and I have one issue with the transmission. Before I tell you the problem, I know the GyroMatic needs the engine speed to be as low as possible for proper shifting. The up shifts occur flawlessly at any speed when I take my foot off the accelerator as designed. The issue I’m having is that after a few miles when the engine is at operating temperature, the transmission has trouble downshifting back into the lower gear ( 3rd in drive range) . Sometimes it does downshift when i gradually come to a stop, BUT if you come to a regular stop in todays driving world, the engine will still be in high (or 4th in drive range)when you accelerate and in a few seconds of lugging, it will downshift with an audible clunk and a jerk into 3rd! the only way to avoid this situation is the depress the clutch when coming to a stop. when the clutch is released it will be in the correct 3rd or low gear for acceleration. I would like to correct this issue. I had this problem last year, I removed and cleaned and lubricated the governor but it didn’t correct the issue. Any idea what could be wrong?

I’m guessing you mean try power braking it? never tried it but I’m guessing the vibration would get less the engine needs to be running really slow for it to shift properly , I’ve tried raising idle vibration is less but then it doesn’t shift right

It’s never been out but I inspected shoes when I swapped out a bad drive shaft. The shoes were fine and I adjusted them and they hold the car great!

My personal feels are maybe the clutch tho I feel no chattering in the pedal and there are no problems with the clutch that I know of

This problem has been an issue since I installed a new engine and topped off fluids in the converter and the transmission so I don’t think so …but I just don’t know

Sniper that’s exactly the issue what do you think it could be? motor mounts like everyone is saying?

I agree with you however the vibration comes in and out with such precise timing , that’s the real confusing thing for me! if the motor mounts are bad wouldn’t there be other times there would be vibrations? the vibration starts as soon as the car comes to a stop, and the vibration disappears as soon as it starts moving!!!! I just don’t understand it!

All motor mounts are new its a pretty decent vibration that rattles the windows cant be the drive shaft its just when its in “drive” and stopped!!

My 1952 Dodge Coronet with a perfectly working GyroMatic vibrates pretty severely when coming to a stop. Engine runs smooth as silk and quiet too so I know it’s not the engine. When I stop and it is vibrating , it will completely stop if I depress the clutch! There is no vibrating when accelerating , driving or coasting. Only comes in as soon as the car stops. As soon as I start moving , smooths out Any ideas? my guess fly wheel or clutch but I’m not too familiar with clutches or flywheels!! Any help would be appreciated

Windy Hill and French lake both had the correct spindle but Windy hill answered faster than French so they got my business tho exactly double the price if anyone needs a 10” drum and spindle I now have a complete set for sale however the shipping will cost 80-90 dollars

Well the one on the left is exactly like the one I need the one on the right is what I got from French Lake keeping my fingers crossed WIndy Hill has the correct one🙏🙏🙏

Picture above the bottom spindle is what I need too is the wrong one I got from French they swear it’s from a 52 Dodge I had no idea there were so many different size drums etc between Dodge Plymouth and Chrysler!!

Since there is no classified I’m taking a chance and asking if anyone has a 11” drum steering knuckle /spindle assembly French Lake sent me a 10” where my Dodge has 11” if anyone has some lying around let me know it’s the right side passenger front French Lake never got back to me today i also called Windy City and they are going to call me tomorrow to see if they have the correct side but I do not mind having spares if the junkyards come through I miss driving my baby

She’s great and very knowledgeable !!

Wow!! that’s very very nice of you!! I’ll take you up on that offer!!