dgrinnan

It has been a while, but I wired up the motors. Neither one works. I have ordered a DCM 6V motor for the driver side. I am going to attempt to rebuild the old one myself. If I am successful, I will put it on the passenger side. If not, I will live without one on the passenger side.

Does anyone know if the stainless trim from a 41/42 fits on a 46/47? The horizontal bars. Picture for reference. Not mine

I pulled the vent and made sure is was clear. I don't think it was blocked. (FYI - mine was 5/8s, not 9/16s) . I won't be able to get to pulling the axle for a while to check the seals again.

I remembering seeing the vent. How do I check it is open? Does it screw out? I think what I saw is the vent. Is this the vent?

I will take a look at the inner seal. Thanks for the feedback.

I recently had my differential rebuilt on my 47 WC. I pulled the rear axles, replaced the bearings and the seals right behind the brakes. Almost immediately the rear left wheel was throwing differential oil/lub on the wheel. I ordered another new seal and this time I used some Permatex Gear Oil Gasket maker on the provided gaskets. At first I thought that solved the problem. I probably drove15-20 miles with no sign of a leak. I took it out on a short run a couple days ago and once again I have oil all over my wheel. Any suggestions?

It was about 50 degrees when I took a ride.

I have the original speedometer in my 47 WC 1/2 ton. Original transmission. I have a new speedometer cable. When I first hooked it up it was working but frequently bouncing around a 10 MPH fluctuation. Mostly jumping between correct speed and 5-10 MPH faster than my actual speed. Annoying but I didn't pay that much attention to it. I went for a ride yesterday and it was spinning wildly the full range of the speedometer. It eventually settled down and went back to the 5-10 MPH bounce. I could here "growling" from the speedometer when this was happening. I have seen similar post and the diagnosis was the cable needed to be lubricated. That should not be the problem here considering it is a new cable. Could it be as simple as the a shot of WD-40 in the speedometer? Is the speedometer on it's last leg?

I am not done. The heater line will be secured away from the fuel line/filter. Also, the picture is deceiving. The filter is at least 6 inches away from contacting anything on the engine.

It gave me the option to install a cable control inside the cab for turning heater flow on and off as needed.

Thanks for the feedback everyone. I was able to get my heater setup.

I took another look at mine. It is also 3/8 pipe thread to 5/8 heater hose. Heater hose fitting

I just bought two. One for the top of the water pump and one for the back of the engine. You can shop around and find them cheaper or 3 times as much but they are all the same. You can find it here on Amazon or just google heater hose fitting for a ton of options. You want the one that is 1/2 inch thread with a 5/8 inch outlet to the heater hose Heater Hose Fitting

Now that I have it straight in my head, that is the set up I am going to go with. Remove both spacers, add a fitting to the top of the water pump and the rear of the engine.

The engine did come out of a 53 Plymouth. Hard telling what the setup was.

Now I see it. I had to keep looking at it. It finally sunk in. You are talking about adding a connection where there is currently a pipe plug, eliminating both the current nipples. I couldn't figure out how I was suppose to feed the heater hose without the nipple on that spacer. That would also solve my problem of the existing nipples being larger that my heater connections.

On mine, there is no spacer on top of the water pump. It appears the best solution would be to locate a spacer that fits between the top of the engine and goose neck that does not have the heater hose nipple. Short of that I will just cap it off with heater bypass cap.

On both of yours you only have a spacer. Mine has an extra outlet nipple? Some other set ups I have seen there is no short hose connection between the goose neck and the top of the water pump. They just have a feed to the bottom of the radiator and the heater hose. Without that short hose connection the spacer could be removed because you don't need to worry about the two outlets aligning.

I am adding a heater to my 47 WC 1/2 ton. It appears it never had one. The engine is not the original. It is 218 from a 53 Plymouth. Same engine as the 47 but not the original. It has some weird set up for the heater hoses. It has an extra cast spacer under the goose neck from the engine to radiator that has a heater hose nipple. Circled in RED. It has the standard heater hose nipple on the top of the water pump. I temporarily stuck the hose loop on there to close the system. The top of the engine at the rear has a pipe plug where you would normally have the heater hose return line. (I have ordered a 90 degree nipple to replace the plug). I can't remove the extra piece and drop the goose neck down to the top of the engine because then the hose feed into the front of the goose neck won't line up. The yellow arrow. I guess I could try to source a new goose neck that doesn't have that extra nipple. Right now my plan is to cap off the one nipple and run the hoses in a typical configuration. I didn't know if anyone had any insight as to what is going on here. The other problem is the two nipples are larger than the standard 5/8 heater hose that fits the heater lines and nipple at the rear of the engine. I will have to come up with a reducer I can put in the line leaving the front nipple and connecting to the heater intake.

That looks right. I agree, 39-47 should be the same. Now I just need to find a couple.

I have been searching google and I have left a message with DCM Classics. They don't list one. They might have some in their yard. Waiting to hear back. I am also reteaching and exploring my options to fabricate them if it comes to it.

I checked. There are no connectors or duct work under my dash. I can look straight up and out the defroster slot in the dash. I see the two brackets the connectors should attach to but they are gone. I think the flex pipe is suppose to be 2"? I need to figure out how I am going to attach and vent out the defroster openings.

I will take a closer look.

It appears my 47 1/2 ton has never had a heater/defroster. I have a nice 40's heater to install. What have you guys done about duct work from a heater to your defrost outlet? I will get under the dash to confirm but last time I checked I don't think there is anything there. do I need to source and original set up from a donor truck or have anyone fabricate their own? What did you use?

Just to follow up. I counted wrong. My spline is 16 but I have found and installed a replacement drive shaft from a 53 Dodge D100. All specification were the same except the actual diameter of the drive shaft is larger. Length, splines and old Cleveland style u-joints. I found the slip joint at DCM.