dgrinnan

I rarley drive my truck after dark. I took it out early this morning and notice my headlights are not very bright. My parking lights are dim also. Just a pail yellow glow. The truck has been re-wired and I know the first response to going to be check the ground. That is first on my list but if I have a good ground is this just normal for these light bulbs (specificailly the parking lights). Next option would be upgrade to LED, if they are avaiable in 6v. The front parking lights where converted to a dual filiment base. I wired my turn signal to them.

Where on the engine would be a good location to take a temperature reading? I have an after market temp guage mounted under my dash. It seems to show a normal operating temperature of 190. I do have a 180 degree thermostat. I want to check the accuracy or deviation of the temperature gauge.

I know this is an older post but DCM just started selling new aftermarket replacement pieces.

The truck sit for a week. I started it yesterday. Slow to start waiting for the fuel system to fill up but no problems with the battery. The short term assesment is a bad battery, not a phantom draw on the electrical system. A few starts after a period of sitting will confirm or point to a battery draw.

You need to check the amprege requirements of the Newport wiper motor. I can't speak to how well this unit will work for powering a wiper motor but I installed it to power a cigarette lighter style accessory plug so I can run 12v accessories such as a dash fan and a cell phone charger. It works well for those. It will support 10 amps. $25. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BQJ4G77B/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I agree with the "out of sight out of mind" thinking. Only my hair dresser knows.

I had some 2 inch angle iron laying around and needed to practice my welding skills (which are poor). I made a battery box that sits in the current location.

I stilll have the 6v system on my 47 WC. I have a bargain battery from Auto Zone and when the truck sits for several days or more it looses it charge and only has enough charge to crank the truck maybe 4-5 times before it drains. I have order an Optima 6v and I am hoping the solves the problem. Have any of you installed an Optima Redtop in the original battery tray under the floor? How did you secure it? Did you make a custom bracket?

After your post I did a sewarch and do see you can purchase inline sensors. Problem solved. Thanks,

The current light switch is built into the original MC. Not a separate piece. Are there available in line switches?

If you have upgraded your brakes using the 1992 Toyota Celica master cylinder, what did you do about brake lights. The original MC has a brake pressure switch to activate the brake lights. It does not appear the 1992 Toyota Celica master cylinder has one? In the picutes on the Auto Parts sites it show a wire going into the cap of the resevoir but I assume that is a low brake fluid sensor?

I know my original post was a while ago. I did have one follow up question before I actually do this. I have read the reason for using the 92 Toyota master cylinder is because it is a direct bolt in? No adpaters and reverse engineering needed? I know the line sizes are different but wanted to confirm the M/C just bolts in. What about the brake light switch. It is built into the original MC. Is there one in the Toyota MC?

Thanks. Hard to find.

Does the circled trim pieces have a specific name or are they just part of the grill trim. I have tried several searches for grill trim and only get results for the diamond shaped part that says dodge. I would like to locate a set to add to my 47 WC

I always drive with the truck in gear and clutch pedal depressed. I never heard that could cause wear or an issue. You never stop learning.

Outside air tempreture was 98 degrees. I will check coolant levels in the morning when it is cooler. It did not boil over.

I have a 47 WC with a 218. All original. In this current heat wave I noticed that in traffic, my temp gauge was creeping up to about 205 at a traffice light and dropping to 185 in an open stretch. I typically run pretty steady at 180.

Has anyone found a source for a 41-47 WC running board step plate that has the Dodge script. I have found multiple sources for Ford, Chevy and GMC. You can also find blank step plates but I have not found any that have Dodge. Picture is for reference.

I have posted pictures of my 47 in the past. This is it on the Navy Pier June 15th for the Mars Candy 95 Anniversary Corporate meeting. The 1954 Dodge belongs to my old high school shop teacher. He drove it in the 70's and was 100% original. It had belonged to his grandfather. It was blue. He has done a complete makeover of the truck over the years. This is it last week when we met for lunch. The bed is Brazilian Cherry stained to match the paint.

Problem solved. I replaced the seal this past weekend. There is a specific depth and stop when installing the seal.

When re-inserting the axle with the new seal, should it be pushed in until it hits something or just until it clears the outer bearings and seal. Is there a specific depth on the axle it should be sitting? I wasn't sure if there was something in the axle tube that acts as a stop when slipping the inner seal in.

Even though the part is listed as for a B-! apparently it is the same and fits the 47. It was a real struggle and took a few weeks to track down the parts to rebuild my differential and bearings for the axles.

It took a lot of digging on the bearing size, but I found a measurement for one of my bearings that map to the shaft size. I think I am Option B. Good thing I documented all the parts and part numbers I purchased and installed.

Additional information. The axle race is Timken 25520 Wheel Bearing Race for Dodge B-1. I have searched and searched. I thought for sure any site selling this part would list the specs dimensions. No luck so far.

I have a 47 WC with the original rear axle. My right site is leaking around the inner seal, and I am getting differential fluid leaking onto my wheel. Background. I had the entire differential rebuilt with all new axle bearings. When I reassembled the rear end, installed the differential and axles I realized I had ordered new outer seals but not inner seals. I decided to reassemble using the old inners seals. They appeared to be in good condition. The left/driver side is good but as expected it was a crap shoot. the left side is leaking, and I have to pull the right axle back out and replace the seal. Here is my question. DCM Classics list 4 different options for seal size. The options cover 1939 through 1953. I am hoping there are different options based on which year vehicle it is and not various options for the same year. Does anyone know which seal I need to order for an original 47 rear axle. I can always pull the axle and put a micrometer on it, but I prefer to have the part in my hand before I pull the axle out. It appears in the shop manual the exploded view of the rear axle refers to it as the "Axle drive shaft oil washer". Option A Option B Option C Outside Diameter 2.445" 2.69" 2.441" Housing Bore 2.437" 2.686" 2.437" Shaft Size 1.375" 1.437" 1.375" Width/Thickness 0.250" 0.375" 0.375" Option A Option B Option C Added : Option D OD 2.440 ID 1.410, .250 thick