48jumpdoors

right on that Sniper, I thought that they have a manual/fluid drive? but didn't know what it was, anyways I found the seal on ebay and low and behold they say it fits both O/D and standard. Thanks guys

Andy's show two different seals a T115 and a T115A and but does not stipulate between standard and overdrive but does stipulate for vehicles with powerflite trans.

So I am trying to find out if anyone knows if the rear seal on the O/D trans and standard three speed trans are the same seal? I have a 48 Plymouth that an O/D was installed in, I have no idea what year the O/D is or if that matters, I know that the same drive shaft was used when the swap was made from standard three speed to O/D. I know that there is a difference in seals if you have a vehicle with the fluid drive per Andy's

I am waiting for you to install the trans as I have a 1948 4 door with all original equipment except for the R10 that Dad put in it years ago. Dad had a toggle switch to run the solenoid to activate the O/D I want to make it a little safer for the trans and do it more like its suppose to be. I hear that you can ruin one of these O/D units by trying to put it in 1 st gear while the overdrive is engaged I'm sure someone here knows the skinny on that.

I will head out tomorrow and do exactly that! Thanks Sniper

hey there I am having the same problem with my clutch pedal. Prior to replacing my master cylinder my clutch pedal operated fine. Now the pedal is stiff to push down and does not come all the way up on its own. I have not touched anything to do with adjustment while pulling/installing the master cylinder but now that I have everything back together I have this. I was wondering what you or anyone else had come up with to solve the issue. Thanks

Hello, I just replaced my master cylinder on a 1948 Plymouth P15. Once the new master was in I hooked up the over center spring and have found that my clutch pedal now will not come all the way to the top without pulling it up by hand as if something is binding (I may have just answered my own question). Prior to replacing my master cylinder everything worked fine. I have not adjusted anything to this point and dont see that I would have to since nothing was disturbed as far as the clutch is concerned. The clutch does engage the transmission and turns the wheels as intended as I have the car up on stands, (this was done ever so carefully) I have lubed all fittings on the clutch linkage so far. Any help would be appreciated

ah good one!

Cool, that hill is a long one! 50 is pretty dang good. Thanks for the info on the wheels and caps. I would like to take mine on the some trips as well. I have a 1958 Higgins tent trailer that I want to pull behind it do a little local camping with it.

So I was wondering what wheels you are running on your Dodge? Apparently you can run original caps?

lookin' good, I see in your profile your from Lewiston. I had an Aunt that lived in Clarkston awhile back, sure gets hot down in that hole!! Hows the Dodge pull that hill on up to Uniontown? Was this a car show in Lewiston?

ah gottcha, putting holes for lights (aint right) to each his own I guess. And thanks to TomsB2B answer on the coil cutting. Clay W.

so are you missing the top half of your horn ring? I looked at my P15 and it is a complete circle. Anyway nice job on the interior so far!

to Torpedo, I see some small holes to the right of your left tail light, is there something missing there? If so what would that be? I can keep an I out down here in the Okanogan area and also on my travels if thats something your missing.

so just to clarify the cutting of one coil from the spring, I am gonna say that on the original spring on the right because I can see it better in the pic that you would go strait up from the end of the coil to the next coil and cut there? In my thinking that is one coil being cut off, and if you wanted more you would repeat the process?

looks real nice as well, I 'll ask you the same questionTorpedo, what size tires are you running and where you found the rear blocks. I have not seen very many Fasbacks!!

That looks real nice! and if I could ask, what size tires are you running and where did you find the blocks for the rear?

ok thanks

you mention isolators in your post concerning the cutting of springs and that they are available from AB, just for clarification is that what AB lists as Rubber Silencers upper and lower?

Ah gottcha, I had the same problem with my uncut Bronco, so I went back to stock wheels as the aftermarkets were bulging out the sidewalls too much and rubbing in the rear. So I figure with 6.00 16's I shouldn't have a problem on the Plymouth. Thanks again.

I appreciate all the information and effort you guys put out there!

so I got the MC pulled out, did some honing and its a no go, its pitted too bad to rebuild. Its been sitting for 23 years so I had my doubts. So I took the pedal assembly off the MC and tapped out the shaft that the pedals rotate on and cleaned everything up nice, cleaned out the lube points etc... As far as putting the shaft back into the new MC is it advisable to tap it in or should I have it pressed in or does it matter. I have the tools to tap it in vise etc.. Thanks again Clay W.

Thanks Sniper, these might be the same ones that I bought through NAPA for my 52 Ford to lower the front on it. I haven't put them in yet, but I will try to check part numbers

thanks for the info, when you say fairly squeezed are you implying they are close to rubbing?

do you have a part number for the Aerostar springs, I would rather mess with those than my originals if possible. Also does anyone know how much drop the Aerostar springs give without being cut?