Purple Moo Cow

@Tired iron I appreciate the support. Maybe one day I'll have a nice welder too, but for now it's HF's finest

@ratbaileyI've been watching a lot of make it kustom videos. Learning a lot, getting a lot of good background knowledge I think on what I'm about to get into. I appreciate the support aha and yes you're right I do want to so I will. What's the point of owning the project car if not to work on it? @Los_Control ill definitely need some practice welding I'm sure. I only have a little experience with arc welding and this is very different. Unfortunately a flux core welder is all that was in the budget for now so that's what I'll be using. I know solid wire mig is better according to the experts, but this wouldn't be the first time I used inexpensive alternatives and got a good enough result. It's certainly doable, plenty of videos of people using it to patch and repair sheet metal. Worst case I totally mess it up, cut it out, and start over

@Los_Control ya I can survive with it not being perfect...it's in the trunk and then I'll potentially work on the floor near the doors, but ultimately it's not a body panel. I want to learn, I don't want to hire out if I can help it. It's been a life dream of mine to learn to restore and then restore some old cars. They don't necessarily have to be perfect, but not junk either. I appreciate the insight. N I'll definitely check out some of the videos @sidevalvepete and @Dave72dt recommended.

@Plymouthy Adamsyes sir the wheel well is not that bad. It's primarily the area above where the gas tank sits and then the left side where it begins to bend up has some small holes. To test for what must be replaced, I simply push with a pick on it? Some other people were saying it should be more like a moderate tap with a hammer

Its been a while since I've posted on here. I have managed to get my 48 d24 road worthy-ish. Replaced the brake master cylinder, new lines, nice firm pedal. Bought some moderately priced tires, just so I could enjoy the road some. I want to install the actual gas tank I purchased almost 2 years ago finally but have to fix the trunk pan first. I've purchased an inexpensive welder for this but I am unsure of how to move forward with the fabrication part. I don't exactly have hundreds of doors to spend on a bead roller, english wheel, etc. just to fabricate a trunk pan. I've been looking into videos doing it just with a hammer, some molds, and a lot of elbow grease. Is this feasible? I scoured the forums for suggestions but the Plymouth doctor and rcarrestoration are no longer in business. I'd like to avoid spending $100 on some cheap e-bae pan and I'm excited at the idea of creating my own...I just also don't want to bite off too much. I feel like my trunk pan has lots of places that could be patched, but maybe I just build in a whole new trunk? I'm looking for some wisdom and guidance on this. What's realistic? Will patching just bad spots be better? Should I try and fabricate a new trunk pan section by section? If I just cut out a massive portion and use it as a template will I destroy the integrity of the car somehow? Or is there someone near the Augusta, GA area who can provide help? Just trying to make the best decision the first time around. Thanks!!! Photo of trunk attached (hopefully)

@kencombsinteresting. I'll have to reach out to rock auto n see what the deal is

@Veemoney yes definitely a rubber cup type seal. I figured I'd need a 1 for 1 replacement but wanted to confirm. Thanks

Dang...ok cool, thanks

If you purchase the kit to upgrade to disc, you need to upgrade your master cylinder as well right?

Ok people, my rear drivers side wheel cylinder was leaking. I pulled it, honed it, put it back together with the same rubber and no dice. So I ordered a kit from rock auto that claimed it would work on the rear. The rubber seal is not solid on the end, it has a hole in the middle...will this still work? My current seal is a solid rubber piece. Attached photo is the rebuild kit they sent.

That's good to know, I will check on there for a kit with the larger size line that I'll need. Appreciate it!

I appreciate all the responses and insight. I did look at the inside of the master cylinder, while there was some rust build up inside the reservoir the cylinder itself did not seem to have much pitting. I do intend to hone it, when I get one small enough to do so. The local parts store only had one appropriate for an engine. I guess I will have to order some larger brake lines as well, since I only purchased 3/16" so far. Part of me knew the right answer was to not be lazy and just rebuild or replace everything, my wallet just does not appreciate it. Still cheaper than paying someone else to do it though and quite a learning experience.

@Loren I appreciate the insight and background knowledge. I guess I'll be rebuilding or replacing everything then. @belvedere that's interesting, wonder why people would even bother using dot3 if dot5 is a better product. I didn't know any better

It's been a while since I've gotten to post on here. Hope everyone's been having a good year. I PCS'd with my 48' down to Georgia and have recently gotten to start working on her again. I've managed to get her to run for a short period and figured I should move on to ensuring I have brakes in working order so I can hopefully finally drive her at least down my driveway safely. That being said... I pulled my master cylinder to rebuild. It was dried up with orange flakes and gunk. I cleaned it up as much as I could and put in new internals. I purchased DOT3 fluid to put in it but my problem now is I have no idea what fluid the previous owners have put in it. There was zero fluid to pull from anywhere but the lines that are in there were replaced within the last 10 years or so. So there's nothing to say that they're bad. Can I use DOT3 with the old lines? If there's synthetic fluid in the lines will I end up with no brakes? Or do I basically have to replace all the lines. If I do replace all lines, whats the recommended lines to use? N will I also have to replace the internals in each wheel for the breaks? I read in my manual that there are some hydrolic components to the brakes in the wheels? Is that right or am I just dumb. I haven't gotten that far yet either way. Appreciate the help either way!

Ya so @Sniper I should add that I dribbled a little mystery oil into every cylinder again, and when I went to turn the engine over I could see some smoke/air/cloud idk coming up from the 2nd cylinder and I think the 6th. So assuming there's a stuck valve on each of those, can I use a screw driver to try and get it moving? @sniper I did find your post from July on stuck valves