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Purple Moo Cow

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Everything posted by Purple Moo Cow

  1. @Tired iron I appreciate the support. Maybe one day I'll have a nice welder too, but for now it's HF's finest
  2. @ratbaileyI've been watching a lot of make it kustom videos. Learning a lot, getting a lot of good background knowledge I think on what I'm about to get into. I appreciate the support aha and yes you're right I do want to so I will. What's the point of owning the project car if not to work on it? @Los_Control ill definitely need some practice welding I'm sure. I only have a little experience with arc welding and this is very different. Unfortunately a flux core welder is all that was in the budget for now so that's what I'll be using. I know solid wire mig is better according to the experts, but this wouldn't be the first time I used inexpensive alternatives and got a good enough result. It's certainly doable, plenty of videos of people using it to patch and repair sheet metal. Worst case I totally mess it up, cut it out, and start over
  3. @Los_Control ya I can survive with it not being perfect...it's in the trunk and then I'll potentially work on the floor near the doors, but ultimately it's not a body panel. I want to learn, I don't want to hire out if I can help it. It's been a life dream of mine to learn to restore and then restore some old cars. They don't necessarily have to be perfect, but not junk either. I appreciate the insight. N I'll definitely check out some of the videos @sidevalvepete and @Dave72dt recommended.
  4. @Plymouthy Adamsyes sir the wheel well is not that bad. It's primarily the area above where the gas tank sits and then the left side where it begins to bend up has some small holes. To test for what must be replaced, I simply push with a pick on it? Some other people were saying it should be more like a moderate tap with a hammer
  5. Its been a while since I've posted on here. I have managed to get my 48 d24 road worthy-ish. Replaced the brake master cylinder, new lines, nice firm pedal. Bought some moderately priced tires, just so I could enjoy the road some. I want to install the actual gas tank I purchased almost 2 years ago finally but have to fix the trunk pan first. I've purchased an inexpensive welder for this but I am unsure of how to move forward with the fabrication part. I don't exactly have hundreds of doors to spend on a bead roller, english wheel, etc. just to fabricate a trunk pan. I've been looking into videos doing it just with a hammer, some molds, and a lot of elbow grease. Is this feasible? I scoured the forums for suggestions but the Plymouth doctor and rcarrestoration are no longer in business. I'd like to avoid spending $100 on some cheap e-bae pan and I'm excited at the idea of creating my own...I just also don't want to bite off too much. I feel like my trunk pan has lots of places that could be patched, but maybe I just build in a whole new trunk? I'm looking for some wisdom and guidance on this. What's realistic? Will patching just bad spots be better? Should I try and fabricate a new trunk pan section by section? If I just cut out a massive portion and use it as a template will I destroy the integrity of the car somehow? Or is there someone near the Augusta, GA area who can provide help? Just trying to make the best decision the first time around. Thanks!!! Photo of trunk attached (hopefully)
  6. @kencombsinteresting. I'll have to reach out to rock auto n see what the deal is
  7. @Veemoney yes definitely a rubber cup type seal. I figured I'd need a 1 for 1 replacement but wanted to confirm. Thanks
  8. If you purchase the kit to upgrade to disc, you need to upgrade your master cylinder as well right?
  9. Ok people, my rear drivers side wheel cylinder was leaking. I pulled it, honed it, put it back together with the same rubber and no dice. So I ordered a kit from rock auto that claimed it would work on the rear. The rubber seal is not solid on the end, it has a hole in the middle...will this still work? My current seal is a solid rubber piece. Attached photo is the rebuild kit they sent.
  10. That's good to know, I will check on there for a kit with the larger size line that I'll need. Appreciate it!
  11. I appreciate all the responses and insight. I did look at the inside of the master cylinder, while there was some rust build up inside the reservoir the cylinder itself did not seem to have much pitting. I do intend to hone it, when I get one small enough to do so. The local parts store only had one appropriate for an engine. I guess I will have to order some larger brake lines as well, since I only purchased 3/16" so far. Part of me knew the right answer was to not be lazy and just rebuild or replace everything, my wallet just does not appreciate it. Still cheaper than paying someone else to do it though and quite a learning experience.
  12. @Loren I appreciate the insight and background knowledge. I guess I'll be rebuilding or replacing everything then. @belvedere that's interesting, wonder why people would even bother using dot3 if dot5 is a better product. I didn't know any better
  13. It's been a while since I've gotten to post on here. Hope everyone's been having a good year. I PCS'd with my 48' down to Georgia and have recently gotten to start working on her again. I've managed to get her to run for a short period and figured I should move on to ensuring I have brakes in working order so I can hopefully finally drive her at least down my driveway safely. That being said... I pulled my master cylinder to rebuild. It was dried up with orange flakes and gunk. I cleaned it up as much as I could and put in new internals. I purchased DOT3 fluid to put in it but my problem now is I have no idea what fluid the previous owners have put in it. There was zero fluid to pull from anywhere but the lines that are in there were replaced within the last 10 years or so. So there's nothing to say that they're bad. Can I use DOT3 with the old lines? If there's synthetic fluid in the lines will I end up with no brakes? Or do I basically have to replace all the lines. If I do replace all lines, whats the recommended lines to use? N will I also have to replace the internals in each wheel for the breaks? I read in my manual that there are some hydrolic components to the brakes in the wheels? Is that right or am I just dumb. I haven't gotten that far yet either way. Appreciate the help either way!
  14. Ya so @Sniper I should add that I dribbled a little mystery oil into every cylinder again, and when I went to turn the engine over I could see some smoke/air/cloud idk coming up from the 2nd cylinder and I think the 6th. So assuming there's a stuck valve on each of those, can I use a screw driver to try and get it moving? @sniper I did find your post from July on stuck valves
  15. Hello er'body and welcome back to the saga of bessy dirt. So I confirmed I have spark at every cylinder. I removed the panel on the passengers side and pulled off the valve covers. I had no idea that was a thing, wish I knew that when I was redoing my fuel pump. Anyway...I definitely had a layer of oil buildup on just about everything, but I have no clue if it's considered a lot or a little. So I'm looking to you folks to fill me in on just how bad it is in there. I did turn the engine over some and every valve appears to be moving up and down and able to spin when I move them with my hand. Also, I did get the car to start-ish. Which is super exciting and I'm very thankful everyone on here has continued to help me despite my ignorance. So, I filled my carb bowl with gas and sprayed some starter fluid in the intake and got it to run for about 15 seconds. The distributor was retarded in timing as far as I could get it with the main adjustment (which is the only one I'm familiar with, the adjustment bolt for it is near the oil dipstick). So my questions are: 1. how bad or good do these valves/oil buildup look? 2. Is there a way to further retard the timing? Or 3. should I flip my dizzy 180 degrees again and try advancing the timing as much as possible, working back from there?
  16. @clarkede do you need to replace the seal when you pull the cover? And this is probably a very dumb question but...you can't run the engine with the cover off right? You're saying you re-assembled it and then it started n ran?
  17. So, did a 180 with the distributor n there's no more backfire through the carb but no starting either aha. Sprayed some starter fluid and it sputtered a bit, so I guess that's an improvement. I'll have to see about getting some gas into the carb bowl n see if anything will happen.
  18. Ya with more looking into the timing I think maybe the previous owner got it 180° out of wack or just threw off the timing significantly. Guess I'll find out next time I get to work on it
  19. Never done that before, guess I'll need to buy more tools.
  20. Distributor has been out. New plugs, wires, points, condensor, uh all new wires basically for the ignition circuit. New battery. Rebuilt starter and solenoid. New fuel pump (not necessarily working in engine...) rebuilt carb. Float level is correct, float works. No blockages in carb, New needles n such. I made sure to install the distributor as it was when it was pulled. But I guess it could very well be incorrectly timed previously. I guess I have to static time it? I know I have to get the front cylinder to the top but where do you then set the distributor to know it's firing at the one cylinder?
  21. ...welllllll that'd suck. I assume I pull the valve cover to diagnose that?
  22. Was trying to get my d24 to start, put some gas in the carb and cranked it over after a few seconds it backfired and got a big white blow of smoke out from the carburetor. If I continue to crank, it'll continue to turn over and then backfire every few seconds. I read that can signify a very lean mixture, not enough to properly ignite. Am I not getting enough fuel into the intake to start it? Or am I lacking sufficient spark? never seen a backfire through a carburetor before.
  23. Well I am willing to fill my carb float bowl area with gas and see what happens when I crank the motor. I just rebuilt the carb so I haven't put the air horn on the gasket tight yet. I guess I'll see what happens tomorrow! Oh the joys of learning about old...old...old cars
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