Pipewrench_Dale

Uploaded a clip of the main drive pinion and the end play to my dropbox. https://www.dropbox.com/s/hn9mrn97i6j40y0/Video 2018-01-28 14 53 13.mov?dl=0

Doing some service on my 1940 Desoto S7. The clutch was bad so Im replacing it. However having the transmission down I thought it was a good idea to check it over. I then found out that the main drive pinion (the axle that connects to the motor) was a bit loose. Not much but I can see and feel a play in the bearing. So Im concidering removing the pinion to change the bearing and the inner needdle bearing. But, about ten years ago I did this on a 51 Chrylser fluid-drive and It was no fun at all putting it back. It was a real pain. So Im a bit reluctant to do this again. Anyone that has any input on this? How much play in the drive pinion is acceptable? And are there any tricks to use when sliding the drive pinion back in the case? The transmission is a three speed with overdrive. Looks to be stock with the car.

Looks like its time to restore my old flathead? For a while Ive noticed that my oil pressure drops about 20-25% when I rev the engine. At idle the pressure is ok - but as soon as I increase the rpm the pressure drops. And as soon as I let it go back to idle the pressure rises back up to normal. There are no noises from the engine and it behaves as it should in all other aspects. Also the pressure never gets down to zero (there is allways some pressure but a bit low when I rev.) Been trying to figure this out and the only thing Ive come to is that either the oil pressure relief valve is acting up or maybe the bearings are getting worn. The car is a 1940 Desoto business coupe. The Engine has been swapped at some point for a 1954 265 industrial block with a three speed / overdrive transmission. I dont have any idea how many miles it has run. Daniel Sweden

Ive blown my head gasket two times in something like 7 years. Both times it was the studs that had come loose slightly during the winter. So now I always check their torque occasionally. I also use a gasket adhesive on the bolts. Not the type that hardens but a adhesive that stays slighty sticky. Dont know whats is called in english but its almost like tar in substance. Havent done this myself but older mechanics says that when the head gasket blows often one can use a special adhesive. Again dont know what its english name is but we call it "diesel seal". Think its the same that I use on the bolts.

Thanks, Ive had the same thought actually. I think Ill give a few more flushes and put in a lower mixture. Just enough to save the engine if the temperature should drop unexpectedly. Another thing is that modern anti freeze increases the boiling point to something like 226 F depending on mixture and pressure in the system. Back then when our engines was born glycol wasnt used (at least what Ive heard) instead alcohol was often used as an anti freeze. Since alcohol boils at 173 F the boiling point is higher in todays mixtures than back then. So, at least in theory, using a modern anti freeze could increase the stresses on the engine when it overheats as the overall temperature is much higher. Dont know if anyone has given this more thoughts. But the last few days Ive been given it a few thoughts.

I have a 1940 Desoto Business coupe. The engine is a 265 industrial Flathead from 1953 or 54. The thing is that all of a sudden this car have started to run really hot.... but only when I use anti-freeze. If i run it with only pure water in the radiator it stays cool, but as soon as I put anti-freeze in it it starts to heat up and lingers right on the edge of overheating. This happens when I cruise down the highway or have the car idling on the driveway. Ive compared the temperature in the radiator when using only water or water/anti-freeze mixture. Theres basicly no difference it runs at about 122 F. So I would say that the radiator does its job and the difference is the temperature of the the engine. Looking at the tempgauge on the dash it runs at about 180 with only water and 212 with anti freeze (basicly it bottoms out the temp gauge). Ive tried to solve it but now Im out of ideas. What Ive done so far is this Flushed the entire cooling system 4-5 times using both of the shelf radiator cleaners and traditional machine wash tablets. The water pump is new as the old on started to leak o few months back. Ive inspected the thermostat and it opens as it should.

Hi, Im about to adjust the valves this upcoming weekend but cant find any data for my engine. Anyone who can help me out with the correct valve clearance? The engine is a long block, industrial engine. Probably a 265 from 1954 (or a 237). While at it Ill also need some torque specs for the mains/rods + head.

Just found this page http://t137.com/registry/help/otherengines/indengines.php So far Ive identified the engine as an industrial type. Probably made in 1954. The engine has the modelnumber 32-1545-1 http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=9675&d=1236718682 Im starting to think that the number 32 in my modelnumber actually is the same as the marking IND32 on the table on the page above. That would mean that the engine is an 265 Industrial Engine made in 1954.

Anyone who has a referencechart for DeSoto "VIN" numbers? Mine read as follows S7ACD-1889 210-914 Job no 90-742

The number is 2264126. Not sure about the last 6, could be an 8.

Thanks for the tip about this website. Will sure come handy. Ill be measuring the stroke later on. Its hard to do any work on the car right now as its parked in a cramped space. But Ive contacted the Walther P Chrysler museum and sent them the pictures to see what they can find out.

I didnt see those numbers until I saw the picture on my computer. Ill check the head closer tomorrow. But the location is drivers side far back on the head just by the throttlebracket. (The bolt to the right is the second from the back)

Got some pictures Found a tag in a tricky place. Below the mainfold just beside the fuelpump. Nearly impossible to see from above. Had to take a picture to see it clearly. The head had quite few numbers on it but none with a letter in front all just numerical. Anyhow the engine is a 1954 Industrial Engine if I have understod it correctly. But still no clue if its a 250 or 265. Here are the pics... First is general picture of the engine Next is a number located just below the distributor. 06054 Next is two numbers is on the head 04275 and probably 1327830 (unsure its hard to see) Last one is the plate by the fuelpump. Model: 32-1545-1 Serial: 304849 So whats your thoughts?

Thanks for the help. Ill check the engine next time Im in the garage. Now for some of your questions. It isnt a Spitfire. (I had a Chrysler Windsor DeLuxe 1951 a few years back wich was equipped with a Spitfire.) The DeSoto runs quite well. Its a bit hard to start when cold, but runs smothly when hot. Dont really know why its so hard to start. Usually It just requires a small puff of starter gas in the aircleaner and it starts right up. As its equipped with an overdrive there is no problem staying with the traffic most of the times. The reason why I think it has different parts is because some brackets dont seem to be original with the engine. My best guess is that the block is changed and some of the original DeSoto brackets has been reused. As you see 237 is painted on the hood. When I bought the car 4 years ago one of the valves was cracked and needed to be changed. A salesman in a partshop told me it was a 237. And since the new valves fitted I didnt ponder about it. But to my knowledge (nowdays) there isnt any 237 engines? Ill be back with the numbers I can find and a picture of the engine in a few days.

Hi. I own a 1940 DeSoto Business Coupe. Im trying to figure out wich flathead I have. The engine has been changed a long time ago and my main problem is that the serialnumber on the block is missing. Looks like it been filed of. I have measured the engine and its the longer block. When you look at the engine its also clear that its been put together by parts from many different engines. Is there any visible markers except the serial that can point out wich engineblock I have?