Thomba48

Well, if that figure was about right (I mean the arithmetical average) I would almost give this project a go :-)

I surely hope you shall be finished soon. I must say on the good side: what has been done is how you wanted it to be. So the "personal" link is also a value, although maybe not worth a 4k top-up :-) I guess where I am also kind of coming from is: There is one type of car of one particular year that I have decided upon. Call it stupid, yes I am. Of course I could wait for a non-definable time (and of course this car is not something I actually need :-)), but still these cars probably come-up . . . I don't know how often.

Thanks for all your notes. I do understand the impossibilities I am enforcing on you. And Andy, you are absolutely right. As I experienced previously. It is just a reasonable question if many 49 do come over time :-) I'll continue my thinking process :-)

Me again and I believe I am the man for the more "philosophical questions". Because how much is the cost of a car? From 5.000 to probably 5 Mio or even more! Hence, I know a question like this is very difficult to answer. What I am, however looking for is a "general" discussion to help me out on a thought of mine. I guess some of you will have noticed that a 1949 Plymouth is on my purchase agenda. And now, in DA I might have found one. (Why 1949? Well more seeting space than in a 1948 in the back; I do really like the fin design in the rear end; A 1950 version feels almost too "bland" in comparison). The price for this car is reasonable with some room to haggle, so I believe. But than, the car is not perfect and will need quite a bit of TLC, because I really would like it to look as stock, as original, as almost directly out of the factory as possible. Honestly, shipping this car to Germany and having those things done would blow my budget (local costs, local taxes, local issues of being an US car). And sorry guys doing it myself certainly is beyond my time, skill and space potential, unfortunately. Therefore I had the idea of finding a garage locally in the pick-up area (DA or closeby PA area) and get those things done. The question: Will it be more affordable for me, is therefore my budget realistic or not? What will need to be done: The paint job (mexican red) looks okay on the photo but has surely got quite a few cracks. So that will have to be worked on. I know, this is not done by just a few "putting a bit of paint on a few areas" but it will definitely involve a complete "make over". Also in the engine compartment area. Also the trunk would need a bit of paint. One or two scratches on the dashboard. The top has a few cracks so should be replaced. That I have gathered would be in the region of around 700$ plus labour. The interior is in parts okay, in parts needs replacement. The result: It probably all should be redone to look homogenous (no leather is required, certainly too dear). The carpet replacement would add another 500$ including insulating the floor a bit. Some trim parts need to be replaced (that I have calculated with around 700). Obvious rust issues "The underneath of the rocker panel is rusted. I have fiber-glassed the floor boards. The lower part of the passenger door has a couple of bubble spots that may need attention" So this needs TLC and parts exchange. Parts I have seen to be on offer for that somehow in the region of 700$. A bit off additional work in regard to bits and pieces, cabelling issues etc. So what is your feeling: What could that possibly cost? I know from . . . to probably 25.000$ (a budget I certainly don't have)? This discussion will help me to understand if I should persue this path any further. And, do you happen to know by any chance a garage who could do that for me in the bespoke region. Of course, for detailed briefing matters I would fly over more than happily :-)

Interesting insights. And as always - a real pleasure talking to you all :-)

By the way the car is currentyl situated in DA. But I am honestly getting the picture now :-) I simply wanted to assess what that term referred to and what actual benefits were involved. I shall day more knowledgeable now one day (certainly not too sone :-)). Thom

Hi Greg, London seems to work slightly different: Here everyone can enter, but also everyone has to pay. Being a center resident you obviously can acquire a discounted annual badge. I do like you Hamburg example. It is a very obvious issue, although not as likely to happen. The Hamburg/ Munich distance results in a 6/7 hrs drive and therefore for us Germans feeling almost like flying to NY. So most people probably would either fly or take a well equipped and comfortable train. But coming back to your train of thought. You actually have to know that upfront. Which one doesn't always do. Than entering the city, the zones are indicated thanks to road sings (http://www.umweltbundesamt.de/themen/luft/luftschadstoffe/feinstaub/umweltzonen-in-deutschland). But those you might occassionaly overlook. And your car has to have a badge (cost in the region of 15 € so I believe to remember http://www.gutschild.de/feinstaubplakette-euro4-gruen.html?gclid=Cj0KEQiA8rilBRDZu_G8hszXraoBEiQABlB9Ywc0wfWlVzohD2mC0lPD1lIRclysE7zNVHBDql4GZZEaAte78P8HAQ). And also acquiring the badge is not car age linked but fine particles related (and therefore linked to the engine output as stated by the manufacturer and not linked to the actual engine reality. So your car is not being checked, but simply by entering a few information into a system the inspector can immediately tell you if you can get a badge or not. And that badge the car then keep forever.). So the 1990 Audi was just an example. For another Audi model and engine it might be an issue if you happen to have, I don't know, a 1989 model etc. But generally cars build around that period are beginning to have problems already to reach the limits defined by law. Obviously if you are being caught, which to be honest is not being done a lot because of course the police has in the most cases better things to do than check out car badges, you are being fined plus being added a few points to your "negative driving point list" (if you have reached a certain number of points you have to hand back your driving license for a bespoke number of weeks, months maybe even years). So all in all - stupid, useless and overlegislated.

Now having started this thread I shall enlighten you towards the situation here in Germany. Any car, might it be new or old, has to run through a thorough inspection every two years (after three years for the first time for a completely new car). Obviously "old" cars will under no circumstances be able to comply to the most modern requirements. So here it often becomes a bit of a grey zone. What one inspector accepts another one might not. Vintage cars - that translation probably comes closer to the German phrase of Oldtimer (also english :-)) - are defined as 30plus and older. These cars can be granted the antique status (we call it historisch (historic), therefore being granted the H named registration plate) most people would certainly aim for. Tax is considerably cheaper. Insurances (just like you stated) are very complete and cheap (as those companies do assume a low mileage usage pattern). But also, with an H-rated car one is allowed to enter any cities without restrictions. What that means: For pollution reasons quite a few cities have introduced a so called "Environment zone" only allowing those cars to enter that area that adhere to a certain fine particles limit (I hope this translates well enough into english). Resulting in many cars from the beginning of the 90s to not being able to enter the city centers. So this e.g. is the case in Munich, where I reside. The funny thing is: I was able to drive through Munich in my P15 Business Coupe (when I still had it), certainly not renowned for a low gas useage and hence environment friendliness, where as friends of mine owning an Audi from 1990 had to stop outside the city and take the underground to meet up with me. Historic also requires to stick as close to the original state of the car as possible (therefore safety belts are only required if cars of that time and period originally were equipped with safety belts). Which obviously is very difficult for many inspectors to check or comprehend. Obviously a "tuned up car, maybe even chopped" is kind of original. That is the way that car might have looked like for the past I don't know 40 years or at least that is the way cars might have looked like back than. So, there is a lot of room to "be flexible" in execution terms. But basic safety aspects need to be adhered to. Henceforth, most hot rods I see in the US would never be able to drive on German roads. :-( Looking across the boarder to e.g. Switzerland the situation looks a bit similar but also different. Main difference, so I believe: The speedometer has to display KM and not mileage and the H registration plate is not "per individual car" but "per car you happen to drive right now". So one plate can therefore be used for your entire car collection (should one happen to have one and quite a few Swiss guys actually do), but obviously the plate can only be used for one car at the time. I suppose that all sums it up: We are all the same but different :-)

Like anywhere in the world: Laws are very often not to be understood (why Jan and not Feb? :-)) but adhered to :-) Thanks for this interesting cultural ride through the US legislation. :-) thom

Okay. Call, I do understand now. Thanks :-) :-) :-)

That by the way is the exact answer I was looking for :-) One question back: So why would you actually spend those 25 dollars for thte "tag"? What is the actual benefit for being "antique"? :-)

Hi, I am currently checking on a car for purchase. The current owner has just right now titled his car for "antique". Of course I can imagine what that generally speaking means. What I was wondering - and I couldn't find any information on that sofar - is this only an historic "thing" probably impacting tax or insurance matters or is it also an indication of "quality". A bit like a MOT in Europe. thanks for your thoughts on that. thom

By the way, if one needed to replace floor sheets completely what supplier could be recommended for that? Thanks

That is all very helpful. Thanks. So if I see it correctly, on the door panel there is a straight chrome trim-line (whereas in my 1948 Plymouth that chrom trim is more curvy at a certain part). Then in adjustment with the fabric/ cloth being used for the seats the door panels are two tone also? Now, when it comes to the leather version (certainly more relevant for the 1950 convertible offering) it looks like the door panel is not two tone anymore? Would that be correct? The straight trim line on the door panel still is there? When it comes to the seats they are two tone? Am I correct on that? The back rest looks like leather, the actual seeting cushion sections however would be cloth? Would be great if I could get more information on that. Are there any sewing patterns on the seats, or any relevant patterns on the door panels? Thanks

I am trying to investigate how the original look and feel of the interior of a 1949/1950 Plymouth really was and therefore should be looking like. So how should the seat covers look like? I am especially interested in the leather version. How did the door panel looked like? The pictures I have sofar seen of door panels all look very basic - especially when comparing with the look and feel of 1948 door panels. Is that really right? Where there any chrome elements on the door panel structure? Thanks for your inspiration.

Hi, of couse. I shall definitely opt for the Signal Stat in chrome. Just didn't felt like bragging with others people recommendations :-) thom

Hi, you probably have seen my thread. I found those. All not really on the cheap side: Here I am referring the ones on the bottum end of the list: http://www.google.de/imgres?imgurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.reidsrodparts.com%2Fimages%2FA5007.JPG&imgrefurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.reidsrodparts.com%2FELEC1.html&h=815&w=2126&tbnid=ddl9dLMYBj-8iM%3A&zoom=1&docid=bIbqKKDPLuAJgM&ei=x7OBVLutD8usPJmPgNAH&tbm=isch&iact=rc&uact=3&dur=1819&page=1&start=0&ndsp=27&ved=0CC8QrQMwBQ And obviously this one. The high tech solultion: http://www.turnswitch.com/Turnsignal.htm Thom

Yes. Exactly

Question: having screened the original sales brochure both guards (front and rear ) are (obviously) different in overall length and differ in their distance between the poles also. Could anyone give me please the exact measurement (overall length and distance between the poles). There is an offering on ebay which I want to check out and clarify if that could work for a 1950 Plymouth. Thanks/ Thom

Interesting chat

Did I hear the word Chrome a lot? Weeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee loooovvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvveeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee chrome. Talking about Chrome: Has anybody every thought about a nice trim application on the after market fenderskirts? :-)

Trust me - order we have. Ordered our life is, sometimes to an extent that stops people form intrinsic self-activation (e.g. when it comes to social welfare matters). Now coming back to the car issue: The car will have to adapted to certain regulations in regard to a) signal switch is required. So is a hazardous light. the colour of the bulps have to be changed. c) the combination of using the break light also as the indicator light can occassionaly be refused c) hood ornaments are not liked, but mostly accepted d) the size of the registration plate is defined (in most cases far too big for a classic US car) e) the break system needs light adjustments f) the horn has to work g) it all has to be checked and then approved by a state approved organisation h) this approval needs to be renewed (and therefore the check-up) every two years etc. etc. etc.

Thanks for adding this point. Yes, we are a country of rules. And the bizarre thing is: We do not see them as infringements. Well, maybe we are simply just authority junkies :-) A final question to the beeper solution: I can obviously imagine an appropriate set-up for this, but how does your (in the sense of "you") set-up look like?

:-)