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rtferguson39

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Everything posted by rtferguson39

  1. rtferguson39
    So I ran a leak-down test, and found some crossover from cylinder 3 to cylinder 4...imagine that. I pulled the head and this is what I found, block side of head gasket pictured below. To me, it also looks like this gasket was allowing coolant to pass from the center cooling passage (right in picture) into cylinder 4. Anybody else have an opinion on this? An initial quick cleaning did not shoe any major cracks in the head. I will be doing a more thorough inspection this evening of both the head, and the block, again.
  2. rtferguson39
    It is not necessary to jack the car up to remove the intake/exhaust manifold assembly. Do attempt remove both manifolds as one piece. WARNING: the two lower exhaust manifold bolts between the ports for cylinders 2-3, and 4-5, (sometimes referred to as the "long bolts") will likely break during removal. The rust bond between the manifold and what is left of these lower "long bolts" can make manifold removal a chore; requiring heat, pry bars, and a BFH. As others have mentioned, make sure to remove the "hidden nut" behind the center intake port for cylinders 3 and 4. All the other fasteners are fairly visible. 13 total. Expect a minimum of three hours to remove these manifolds if this car has been sitting outside for as long as you describe it.
  3. rtferguson39
    Manifolds removed as of last night. What a fun process! Upon a detailed visual inspection of the intake ports, all seems fine! Thank goodness. However, I could feel some wetness around the intake valves for cylinders 3 and 4, and it certainly smelled like coolant. I'll run a leak-down test on those two specific cylinders this evening, and based on those results, more than likely pull the head.
  4. rtferguson39
    This past Saturday I spun the engine over by hand with the plugs out and was able to observe coolant coming from the 3-4 intake port and into the manifold....So I began to remove the manifolds to inspect the ports... All went well until it was time to remove the two bolts for the exhaust manifold under the exhaust ports for cylinders 2-3 and 4-5. (The long bolts).They both snapped, even with loads of heat applied before attempted removal. I am currently reading (on this forum) that this is a fairly common issue. They've now been soaking in PB Blaster since Saturday and I will attempt to remove the manifolds again this evening. All 13 fasteners (less the two broken long bolts) are removed, including the hidden center lower nut. Hopefully I can make some headway tonight.
  5. rtferguson39
    I like this thought. Just pressure test the block and head essentially. I think the timing of this coolant issue was extremely inconvenient. The carb needed to come off due to shot accelerator pump bushing, or float issue (dumping fuel out of the base of the accelerator pump shaft). There was no indication of a coolant leak before. At all. This coolant issue likely had just begun on my last drive, or even post-shutdown. No steam from the exhaust, no clean plugs, or valves. Also no coolant in the oil. The compression test numbers may indicate early head-gasket failure around cylinders 3-4. We will have to see. Certainly the first time I've seen this issue.
  6. rtferguson39
    Well, in the time I had yesterday evening I was able to perform a dry compression test, all plugs removed, and the results came back ok. Not perfect, but ok: 1: 105 psi 2: 95 psi 3: 84 psi 4: 95 psi 5: 112 psi 6: 110 psi I checked head bolt torque. All were at 65 lb-ft, or slightly higher. I removed (one at a time) the three head bolts that pass directly into the intake ports as Plymouthy suggested, all were dry. I did apply thread sealant for reinstall. However, the bolt between the intake port feeding 5 and 6, had an odd rust stain on the bolt and head that looked like water had run down it at one point. I'm doubtful this was the culprit for a 1/8" deep pool of coolant in the manifold. I guess the only things to do next are to pull the manifolds and head and thoroughly inspect everything I can. The only other thought (and question) I have here... Does anyone think it may be worth pressurizing the cooling system with a tester to a minimal amount (2-4 psi) to see if I can expose any leaks before teardown? Or will this cause more harm than good to the radiator?
  7. rtferguson39
    Right. For all I know, something catastrophic occurred just as I arrived home and parked it, since I've never seen steam out of the tailpipe of this car to date. The system is stock, non-pressurized. So either an oddly compromised heat gasket, or a crack in a port, is seeming more and more likely....
  8. rtferguson39
    Understood. So we're working with an "indirect link" by sealing the head bolts. I see there is an approximate 1-1.5" gap between the cooling passage holes and the head bolt holes (just looking at pictures) , but a compromised gasket just might allow some crossover.... We'll start small with the sealant and dive deeper if need be. She very well might need a head gasket (not for compression reasons), and other things. It is the original engine to the car, never been pulled, with only 28k miles on it, but wasn't treated very well before me.
  9. rtferguson39
    Thank you Plymouthy. Certainly worth trying before I take manifolds off. For the sake of ultimate clarity, we are talking about the three head bolts circled in red in the attached photo, correct? (not my engine, just an example picture). And to confirm, 65-67 lb-ft of torque for head bolts?
  10. rtferguson39
    Good thought. It never ran poorly enough to suggest a large vacuum leak. Hmm. So therefore, your last sentence is my biggest fear.... cracked port. I will know more this evening when I dig a little further into it.
  11. rtferguson39
    Right. Which raises my concern even further. The only things left are head studs that may possibly leak into a cylinder, and this would only show up if the valves and piston on cylinder 3 or 4 were in a perfect orientation to allow coolant to pass into the runner after shutdown/heat soak. Or as Sniper just replied, a cracked port!
  12. rtferguson39
    I am positive it is not fuel. No smell and most certainly green coolant.
  13. rtferguson39
    The car - 1949 Wayfarer with the 230 flathead 6 of course.... Car had been sitting for two weeks before this was found, drove normally before with no white smoke from tailpipe. Radiator slightly low, but not drinking coolant at an alarming rate. I removed the carburetor for a rebuild last night, and what do I see pooled in the intake manifold? Coolant. It looks like the coolant is originating from the runner that feeds the center two cylinders (3&4). I pulled the spark plugs, all look OK (slight rich, but not steam-cleaned). All valves that I could see also show normal operating conditions. I understand that most manifold studs pass into water jackets, but am not sure about head studs. Is it likely that I somehow have coolant seeping past a stud and pooling in the intake manifold? Or maybe a cracked/misdirected water distribution tube? Or does anyone believe this could be something more severe, like a cracked block? All input is appreciated. Thank you.
  14. rtferguson39
    Not A Bad Pass for a 72 Year Old: As a supplement to my above post chronicling the adventures from Steel In Motion, here's my hulk getting everything it can with a 3.9 rear gear against a 1964 Corvair: https://youtu.be/3LV94HUILzU
  15. rtferguson39
    The First "Long Drive" After another oil change, one hour of digging sludge out of the oil pan with a coat hanger, full inspection and greasing, minor fuel pump leak fix, the car was ready to drive to Steel In Motion. I was nervous about how much sludge/crap would break loose during the 140 mile round trip as I am one of the unlucky bastards without an oil filter (currently). I've learned a lot about my 230 over this drive; highway oil pressure is stable at 38 psi, but at idle, we may not be in the best shape. Sitting in town traffic, there were a few instances were she dipped down to 5-10 psi. My rule of thumb has always been 10 psi per 1000 rpm, but 5 just seems low at idle. I might have to dig into the bottom end a bit.... Anyway, the initial miles were nerve-wracking, as the longest drive I had previously taken in this car was about 30 minutes. My journey this time was just under two hours one way. Temperature ran right at 170*, the charging system did its job (meaning I did mine properly), and the car tracked straight. We made it to Union County Dragway, where we enjoyed one of the coolest traditional hot rod shows in the southeast. I even took this old girl down the strip. I lined up against a friend's 1964 Corvair in an attempt to own the crown of the slowest 1/8 mile ET in recent history. I lost to the Corvair by a length. I blame this on my launch and the Fluid-Drive coupler. If the track were a 1/4 mile I would have come around and won the race. We were too busy with the sights to photograph more of the show, but here I am with the rest of our friends Sunday morning after most everyone else had packed up and gone home:
  16. rtferguson39
    Other YouTube channels to watch that are very similar to ColdWarMotors: Vice Grip Garage Junkyard Digs Mortske Repair Many revival videos of cars and engines that have been sitting for multiple decades. More entertaining than regular television in my opinion.
  17. rtferguson39
    Yup. That's one thing I did do. I let her warm up for about 15-20 minutes before making any adjustments. The old AutoLite manual highlights that step. Also, always check readings with the regulator cover installed. I noticed as much as a 0.4V decrease and a 5A decrease with the cover installed vs. the windings exposed to the open air.
  18. rtferguson39
    Ah yes. I noticed (in regards to very low factory settings on the STD Ignition part). My voltage regulator output was actually OK for a 6v system at 7.9 volts, but the current regulator was basically putting out 0A right out of the box. I wonder how consistently the gaps, spring tension, and outputs are checked and set when those aftermarket parts are assembled...
  19. rtferguson39
    Maintenance Update: One day she didn't start. So I thought I had it narrowed down to only a charging issue, but once I fully recharged my battery, the car still wouldn't crank for more than 1-2 revolutions before dying out. Traced voltage drops from the batt, to the solenoid, then to the starter. Found the starter motor to have a ton of internal resistance. Removed it and took it to a wonderful shop in Charlotte NC known as Carolina Auto Electric and had it rebuilt. I highly recommend this place in case anyone on here lives around that area. Anyway, reinstalled starter, car cranked and started, but of course I still had a charging issue. I tested the generator the redneck way, by removing a battery lead and running the car purely off the generator for about 0.5 seconds. It worked as it should. So that leaves the regulator. I was nervous to delve into that "little black box" on the firewall, as I've never messed with one of these old 6v regulators before. So like anything else I've done in my life, I just started working and figuring it out as I go, with a shop manual and an old AutoLite regulator manual at my side. Ran some basic tests, and found that the cutout relay was bad. So I bought a new regulator from Standard Ignition. Seems like a good piece. I'm running an 8v battery (my choice, car has no radio), so I had to adjust my current and voltage output to match. Another first for me. She now outputs 9.5V and 20A at full charge rate under load! (and returns to a slight discharge state at idle, no load). I know this may seem stupid to be excited about, but I am a younger guy (only 30) who has never messed with 40's tech before. Somebody my age has to learn this stuff to keep these cars on the road! Anyway, one step closer to complete roadworthiness for Steel In Motion at Union County Dragway in SC, May 14th.
  20. rtferguson39
    Well, there are a few reasons why I ended up with a 1949 Dodge Wayfarer two-door sedan. We'll start at the beginning. I was probably 12-13 years old walking through an antique store in southern Delaware (where I grew up). I saw a stack of old car adverts sitting in the corner of a booth, so like any young Mopar fanatic, I started flipping through and finding every DCPD ad I could. The one pictured below caught my eye. So ever since then, I've been obsessed with Dodge Wayfarers, specifically the styling of the first year offering. I swore one day I would eventually own one. Secondly, about two years after that, I learned the story of my grandfather's first car. It was a 1949 Plymouth DeLuxe fastback. My family has driven nothing but Chrysler products for four generations, but I just found it amusing that my grandfather's first ride was essentially the same as the Wayfarer I dreamed of owning. He mildly hot-rodded the car, with a 2bbl carb, split manifolds, true dual exhaust with dual Dynatone mufflers. My favorite story of his is how he got pulled over on the 404 in MD on the way to the Delaware beaches. When my grandfather asked the officer how he knew he was speeding without ever tailing him, the officer responded with, "Boy, I heard you coming long before I ever saw you." Lastly, when I could finally afford to begin my search for a Dodge Wayfarer, I stumbled upon what I consider to be a very well-documented example with a bit of notoriety attached to it. The Wayfarer I own is the green car used as an example in the allpar.com writeup on what is a Dodge Wayfarer (https://www.allpar.com/threads/1949-1952-dodge-wayfarer.228193/). It was extraordinarily fun to validate all the small details on the car from the photos in that 2007 article I linked above. Most of the history chronicled in that article is correct. A friend and I spent many hours on the phone and interwebs to validate it all. Its been a challenge to fill in some of the later history (2011-2019), but hey, that's all good fun. My goal is to return the car to its showroom-like appearance from the 2007 allpar article (she's been run hard and put up wet since then), and maybe rod it just like my grandfather did his Plymouth, just as a tribute and nod of absolute respect for him.
  21. rtferguson39
    Thank you! Yes, it does. I'm a big fan of this hue myself.
  22. rtferguson39
    One Panel Down, one to go. Hi all, I've finally completed the NOS LF fender refinishing for my Dodge. Wet sanded her up to 2k, then buffed to a pretty decent shine (I'm impressed with myself as this was my first ever, serious bodywork project). I was able to remove almost all the orange peel from my Nason single-stage spray can paint-job. Wouldn't you know it, the thing looks better than the rest of the car! I'll work on that soon enough. But, next plans are new tires, a carb rebuild, and a general tune-up. We'll do some buffing in between these adventures. Leaving the ugly driver door for later down the line. I need a break from sanding....Pictures below:
  23. rtferguson39
    Finally In Color: Hi all, After about 20 hours of bodywork, and the construction of my own at-home, collapsible paint booth and ventilation system, I have finally laid down some color! for single-stage aerosol, I'm quite happy with the results (I'd grade it a solid B). Still much color-sanding and buffing to do, but a little closer to getting this car back together with one less glaring imperfection. Of course I also decided to begin work on a 3-wheel Harley Davidson golf cart, while finishing a basement/shop bar room, during the holiday season, while being a gigging musician and working my day job. Shew. Seems like a lot when I actually write it down. This is why progress on my Wayfarer has been a bit slower than I would like. But it'll get there.
  24. rtferguson39
    Fender Progress Update: I have since sanded, primed and undercoated the backside of the NOS LF fender. I'm not going to lie, it was a bit sad to remove the original grease pencil part numbers from this piece, but hey it had to be done. Before all that I had hammered/dollied a few small dings out of the panel. I've applied a minimal amount of filler in those areas. Onto endless hours of priming and sanding....
  25. rtferguson39
    The Small Things: Instrument Panel Lights A small progress update I failed to mention. I now have working panel lights, and boy are they beautiful. Absolutely wonderful Deco styling. I won't lie, I sat in this car for a bit longer than usual after a short evening drive. A very satisfying fix.
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