49WINDS

That's one thing I didn't know about when installing the NOS was to soak it. Either way I think I'll do like most people have here and put a sleeve and new seal in it. Was there a specific part # that anyone has found that is a good fit or is it easier to just take measurements yourself and go to NAPA?

@JSabah Did you have any luck with fixing this leak yet? I am having the same problem with mine even after replacing the seal with an OEM style. I measured the flange on mine and there is similar wear to what yours shows, but I'm curious if just the speedi sleeve will fix that issue or if I'll have to yank the whole seal out again and maybe try a neoprene one this time...wish I had thought to check all this the first time!!

Sorry, I lumped the two together because on my car it says fluid drive in the back, but also has the gyro matic or m6 transmission. I forget that there were plenty of other vehicles that had a manual transmission but also came with the fluid drive coupling as well. Long story short-not sure why the pertronix instructions don't state it but another member here had reached out to them about using the m5/6 transmissions and they recommend adding in the resistor.

From what I understand those are the same transmission, just different names used by Chrysler, Dodge, etc. I haven't gotten to put many miles on mine yet but it runs beautifully since putting in the pertronix and a new coil.

This is the one that I ended up buying, funny because it looks to have the same specs as yours. https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay-Dale/RH0107R000FC02?qs=%2Fha2pyFadugnNOB0EMLp0DKbULhieLhTUXysTlS6nodZ2YMVcebWmw%3D%3D

Haha well it's good to know I'm not the only one who just dives into pulling things apart and has to figure out reassembly later! The cam on yours looked in much better shape than mine did, although I think the only reason I found my issue was because I heard it rattling inside when I had it apart for upgrading to pertronix.

I had torn apart my whole distributor last fall and never even thought to take note of which way the cam was orientated. I did have excessive wear similar to yours on one side but I actually ended up finding a used dizzy that was in good shape and took the parts I needed out of it. I thought someone on this forum had said the letters just notated slightly different timing curves but looking at mine I noticed the are different letters on the base plate versus the cam. I think matching up the more worn sides is a safe bet to putting it back how it was though. As you mentioned in your previous comment though I think it doesn't really matter as the only real difference is the strength of the springs.

Thanks again, those pictures really help a lot. From what I'm seeing though it looks like on both carbs the deflector faces to the right? I might have to mess around with it some more on mine to see which way looks correct.

Thanks Dodge! That also makes sense that the deflector is on wrong as I always wondered why the linkage rod seemed to get in the way. I guess I'll call RI wiring again tomorrow and see about getting the correct plug, and also ask them if they show that style for the newer years of cars or if maybe they have the wrong info. Any pictures you could find would also be great. I'm not trying to make this a show car by any means but I would like to get it as original looking as possible.

Good afternoon, I just received a transmission wiring harness from Rhode Island Wiring to replace my terribly patched and worn out original harness. It looks beautiful except for one connection that didn't match what I have on the car. I called them to check and they said everything they have shows a spade connector to the kickdown switch, but somehow I have a bullet connector on mine. They even checked different years on different models and still saw they all had a spade. I have wondered why it would have this connector that hits the choke linkage, so is it possible someone had modified it in the past to use a different connector? Or do I have some weird carb that doesn't match my car? If it helps it is a 49 Chrysler Windsor and the carb # is E7L3

Thanks Marcel, I guess I hadn't looked into it enough to price every single part I needed but I had thought it might be cheaper. You make a good point about having it done right and looking good, I'm willing to pay a little extra to have a quality job rather than be disappointed with the results of trying it myself.

I have also been eyeing all the wiring choices on RI's website, and they have a great selection for sure! The interior wiring on my 49 is still in decent shape for it's age, but a lot of the wiring under the hood is down to bare wires in some places. My next project is to rebuild the carb and replace the harness going between it and the transmission as I know it's already been very poorly spliced in a few spots. I've been contemplating trying to order the color and period correct wire from them to make my own replacement versus spending over $200 on a pre-made one from them. I know several of you have made your own harnesses so would you say that it's cheaper and hopefully worth the effort? I'm not looking to keep everything exactly stock, but I would like to at least try to make it look as close as possible.

I wish I had seen that tip before replacing the pinion seal on my Chrysler this summer. I got it off ebay for a decent price but now it's started leaking again after I sucked out the who knows how old fluid and installed some new clean stuff. I pulled the vent off the axle tube and cleaned it out as it was pretty gunked up, but I still get a steady leak from the pinion even while just sitting in the garage. My only other guess is maybe it would need a speedy sleeve and/or the seal I installed is faulty.

The band is fairly easy to replace by itself but the hard part is finding the correct one and for a decent price. Andy Bernbaum's has them for pretty cheap but the lining was way too thick and would not work for me. The next cheapest I found was from mopar mall and it was just over $100. I figured I'd just try to re-line my own and if it didn't work then at least I wouldn't be out too much money. Is your drum still in good shape or did you wear it down to the rivets as mine was?

Pulled the car out today to test the brake and she holds like a champ! Also had to finish messing with replacing the u-joints which I thankfully found help on how to do from another post here. I'll put some pictures into that post as well.