Cpt.Fred

Beautiful car! Topic reminds me of a t-shirt i had printed some time ago since everyone else here seemed to ride automatic transmission and SBC:

Hey, Andy, happy birthday from over here and all the best to you! You shouldn't bother going to bearing stores on your birthday anyway. With the new info i made several inquiries at a number of different places for the desired parts (including Canada). If the replies are negative or the cost is out of my price range i'll figure something out. As i said, sorry for making a fuss about it, but i can get pretty stubborn from time to time... And now, off to the birthday cake with you! I raise a glass of wine over here (it's near bed time for me) a bring out a toast to you. And to all you other guys as well,following and helping with this... Cheers!

Thanks Robert, i know i have the phone number right here. The problem with that specific part was that i didn't find any numbers or specific info on it until now. I'll call them later and ask, i think it's very early in the morning now in Canada...

hehehe, that required some intercontinental head scratching.

Andy, thanks for the scan, that gives some valuable info! The part shown in plate 49 and 50 as part #6 is the one pressed into the inner side of the hub, my last photo of post #121. I regard it as part of the bearing seal assembly ----> group 22: wheels. The parts in question that are shown on your scan (very interesting that it is 3 parts actually) is part of the brake assembly. That makes them part of ----> group 5: brakes -service (5C - brake support). That explains why i could not find them anywhere in my lists... The 1940 passenger car parts list that i have doesn't sport that very illuminative illustration that you posted. A shame... So, if i just need to get me some thick piece of felt and some rivets and it's ok to straighten the metal parts as goos as possible, then i could give it a try. I think i should open them by grinding down the rivets and take them apart to see what i can do. Let's see what your guy has to say. EDIT: while i posted #126, you wrote post 125 simultaniously.. what you just said is true. The dust seal is what i mean. It is referred to by different terms in my lists.

It seems like i finally got it? On the rear wheel it's No. 10 - "axle oil seal outer". I really prefer the exploded view drawings... this is quite crowded and hard to see there. This is better, front wheel, but the seal is not on the list...

thanks, andy. i'm curious what comes out. is that part riveted to the backing plate actually the counter part of the other seal on the hub? and when it is important, why doesn't anyone list it as a spare part? sorry to make such a fuss about this, but i want to be sure i understand this right. i've never seen such a setup before and i want to get the bearing sealed up tight this time. it's all about security, because this might be the reason my brakes did not work as they could have. some might think i'm slow in the head, but i don't care in this case... here are drawings of what i mean.

Sheet stock wouldn't be a problem, that's true, but these are pretty complex in shape, its more like a cup with a spout or muzzle at the bottom? We'll see. It's just that i would have loved to just buy new ones and don't bother any longer... Plus, to be honest, i don't really get the function of these. I thought the bearing would be more or less closed with the other seal at the back of the hub, behind the inner bearings. Guess they wanted to be sure about it.

hmmmm yes, i think it might be better... so, btt, folks! order in the court! i started cleaning the encrusted backing plates to have a closer look at the felt lining and metal seal, or whatever that part may be. it's riveted to the plates and i guess i won't have a chance to get those new, right? so i'll try to straighten them as good as possible and maybe try to glue new felt in there... but first i have to do more cleaning.

That is the exact core of the problem: both systems have their pros and cons, but the fact that matters most is that they're instilled straight from birth. First time i ever stumbled upon imperial measurements was when i was like 15 or something? You just don't get it out of your head. I always try to visualize a clock to get things right, and it works pretty well down to 1/4. It takes longer with 1/8 and i lose it from there... No one really gets to choose his measuring system from the beginning on, right? Don, you're pretty much correct as long as you're running radials As to the spark plug thread, wasn't that because some german guys, Honold and Bosch invented the spark plug in the early 20th century and got both german and US patents for it? Correct me if i'm wrong.

Thanks, Chris! Donald, you caught me, the mighty Stanley Corp. is actually paying me for doing this thread. I am delighted by the superiour quality of their products, and my car would drive much worse without them. Harrrharrr... Believe me, i'm getting blisters on my brain cortex from switching between metric and imperial. I bought some imperial measuring devices years ago to avoid the conversions, but i founder every time when it comes to things like 5/32" or whatever, i honestly and fervently hate all kinds of fractions, i simply cannot deal with them. And they're not on the measuring tape anyway, at least not to my eyes. I need my decimal points. So, after i took all these nice pictures for my imperial friends, i secretly double checked every part with my metric measuring tape and converted all the dimensions to metric numbers more suitable for my euro-brain...

measuring, measuring, and more measuring... always hard to take proper photos alone. I need a third hand or, even better, a second set of arms. aaaand the deed is done, i got the pivot bars and bushings back in the lower control arms. that was pretty tough, just like i imagined... needed several attempts to get it right without the tool and the work bench and bench vice should be properly attached to almost everything that is nearby. measuring... next is to take these guys to a friend to have the bushings pressed in and reamed out.

It was just a matter of cost, plus i can get all the stuff from one hand. He's a good friend and into all kinds of car stuff, mostly hi-powered engines and 60s muscle, so he knows where to get things and we can gather all the parts in the US to have them shipped over together with the project cars and engines for the other customers. Saves you a lot of shipping fees and to put sugar on top he gets dealer discounts in many shops... He was always very helpful. I'll see how tight i can get the bushings, and i guess you're right about the torque. Of course every bushing gets grease filled before assembly and i put the grease nipples on afterwards to allow the grease escape the bushing when i screw them on. I'll pack them all with a full load before i bolt things back to the frame.

Thanks, Andy! Look at those nice NOS excentric bushings, don't they look just swell on my a-arms? I got a good deal on the Timken bearings at my friend's US parts dealer, so they'll come together with all the other parts i'm ordering via the next container shipment. End of march is what they told me. Cross my fingers. Hey Derek, good to see you're still following this! I guess i have to cut the shock mount studs on the uppers, otherwise they won't fit in there, right? I just think i'll wait until i have everything here and mocked up before i make the cuts. Somehow i learned during the process that 1940 Mopar suspension parts don't really grow on trees anymore... Anyway, i got to do some more close measuring on those parts, it's kinda tricky to get the bushings aligned correctly without tensioning the bushing's threads too much. Here's to all the people in need of the correct measurements to align the pivot bars, control arms and all that stuff: Note the differences between the different years of manufacture. Verrrry interrressssting. Also note the infamous Chrysler special tools used here. I found out that in new condition the control arms came without threads and the bushings cut their way in during the first installation. So i have to deal with the old threads now and hope they'll help me set up everything correctly without the tool C-594. 180 footpounds are to be applied on the lower inner bushings... calls for a heavy heavy monster torque wrench!

upper arms are ready to go back in. that is as soon as i get to clean the frame and wheel housings...

well, you definately have different upper control arms and brakes. basically it will be quite similar, but the devil's in the details. I posted the drawings and parts list of the P10 front axle earlier, so one can compare parts numbers.

Thanks Andy. After reading your thread and chuckling about parts made in China, i'm still confused about where to buy the seal. My Bernbaum seal didn't fit at all the last time. So maybe i should go for VPW. Got the pivot bars squeezed into the upper control arms. Will take some pics in the afternoon if i find the time.

Thanks a lot, Jim!

ok, i think i get it. maybe. ordered the bearings yesterday, timken originals. seals, tie rod ends and bumpers from bernbaum. i also need a hint on which shock to run in the front when i convert to upper truck mounts. was also thinking about getting door weather striping and cowl vent gasket from Steele, while i'm burning money anyway... does anyone here have experience with fitting accuracy? man, this is getting way more pricey than i thought, but hey, it will all be worthwhile in the end. i hope.

I can't hear you...lalalalalalalaaaa.... When i was talking about the rubbers and pivot bars i meant more like "how the heck do i get the pivot bars in between the arms with the rubbers in place? There's not enough room for that..." I'm going to try fierce pressure later on, just have to find a way to safely clamp the a-arms while doing so... maybe the rubber deforms just enough to let the bar slip in place.

The parts are a lot better than the repops, thanks a lot! The excentrics screw right on and fit well! I will clean everything i have and then mix the best parts to get a working set together. This should do it, i guess. Maybe i can get some more NOS parts, will have to use phone later and call some people. I'm also a little confused about how much play the bushings should actually have... i guess i'll just put everything together and tighten things up and then i'll see for sure. Now i have to figure out how to get the pivot bars back into the arms WITH fresh rubber on them. Pretty tricky... I mailed the Timken #s to my parts guy and we'll see what he can do. Dust seals are a mystery to him, so maybe i give Bernbaum a try. They're just 15$ i think, so i try them out. Control arm bumpers as well.

Here's to you, Andy... I put a thin coat of black on the parts and now i'll cover them with linseed oil so they don't start rusting after all these years.. They will look old afterwards, so we're both happy, hehehe. Speaking of happy, i fetched the package from the customs office this morning... I was also toying around in Photoshop and build templates of truck shock mounts from a photo and measurements i got from YoungEd. Thanks! Will glue them to cardboard and mock them up on the frame to get an idea of how long the new shocks will have to be...

Ok, for all those people who need to replace front wheel bearings on a P10 and need the Timken parts numbers to cross reference or buy new Timkens, here you are: Outer wheel bearing reads "TIMKEN X 09074" Outer wheels bearing race reads "TIMKEN - 09194" Inner wheel bearing reads "TIMKEN 14125 - A" Inner wheel bearing race reads "TIMKEN - 14276" Sadly the inner bearing dust seal does not bear any numbers or markings, so if anyone could chime in and post the reference number for that part, i'd be very happy. Otherwise i'll have to measure and ask the dealer, as proposed earlier. The seal is totally shot, as you can see, so i guess i'll have to get the front brake shoes relined due to the grease that entered the drum. Too bad, they weren't even 10.000km old...

Rust fetish... pffft! Who, me? Nicy and cozy here on the dark side, and no chrome far and wide.... noooooo chroooome. hehehehe. I'll see about the coating, i didn't think they'd be this clean under the dirt and now i'm worried they might rot with just the owatrol on them. maybe a mix of both is the best. Andy, i got a customs notification today, looks like the box made it around half the planet! Now i have to get it out of their hands quickly... Oh, and i got the bushings out of that last a-arm yesterday. In the end i had to use a little heat, but i think it's ok and the steel pressed lower arms.

Thanks Dave. Cups will be replaced as well. Hopefully i'll find that number on the inner dust seal. I wondered about the backing plate seal because i never found it in any dealer's shop or catalog so far.