Sniper

They are wire wound resistors.
 
Twice the voltage means half the current and current flow is what causes the heat.  That all said, I put a 12v blower motor in my 51.  The old one's wiring had a bad case of insulation failure.
 
http://www.yourolddad.com/blower-motor
 
 

I just run the original six volt motor in my 51 but it goes real fast on 12 volts. So fast I figured it was going to beat the linkage to death. So I made a current limiter to slow it down. They do make a 12 to 6 volt converter rated at 10 amps which is the fuse rating for that motor. I've got one but haven't tried it yet. I got it off of Amazon.

Rock Auto has universal fit hitches, the give frame width specs
 
https://www.rockauto.com/en/tools/body+&+lamp+assembly,towing+-+trailer,trailer+hitch,1212

In Texas that year would have used the engine serial number on the title.
 
There was no VIN, per se, back in those days.  You had a body serial number and you had an engine serial number and they were not the same.  Which number was used was up to the state to decide.

Depends on the V8, SBC are notorious for the factory style valve guide seals to be junk and do exactly what you are seeing.

Yes, I use Duck Duck Go, here is a screen shot, note the search term I used.  Just replace "engine flush" with whatever term you are searching for
 
 

Chrysler has used the same pilot bushing from the 20's thru the 80's.  53298 is the part number. 
 
Buy a parts manual when you get your pilot bushing.

Probably help if you knew it was called a pitman arm. Assuming that's the one bolted to the shaft coming out of the bottom of the steering box. I don't know who you've tried yet but I would start with you know Andy Bernbaum, but am I 51 there is no ball joint on that arm. Just two holes the inner tie rod ends go into. I'm out in the field so I don't have access to my service manuals so I don't know what you got.  Digging around you got the same setup I do. Sounds like your inner tie rods are worn. Or possibly not bolted down tightly.

First of all
 
IT IS BRAKE not break.  The brakes stop your car, if they don't you will likely break things when you crash.
 
Sorry, pet peeve, lol.
 
To bleed a master cylinder you are looping the output back to the brake fluid reservoir.  As you actuate the piston inside the master cylinder you are forcing any air out of the master cylinder.  The loop back just directs the output back to the reservoir so you can not make a big mess and reuse the fluid to bleed the master.  Once there are no more bubbles in the fluid coming out of the loop back tube you should be able to connect the master cylinder back up as normal
 
Can you do it in the car?  Yes, but sometimes the fluid likes to squirt up out of the reservoir if you go too fast/hard with the pumping.  Then you need to bleed the rest of the brakes. 
 
 

My parts manual shows two different shifter setups, one for standard transmission the other for Gyromatic, Tip Toe Shift  and under drive transmissions.  None of which show a separate rod for reverse. 
 

Using an I phone I take it?  That file format isn't openable with my windows machine.
 
Anyway, seems there are too many suppliers using the wrong thickness brake friction material out there, probably your issue.
 
How to fix it?  Well here's come help
 
 

In order to save money with effort one has to have the skill set to do that.  That right there kills more projects than anything else.  Someone tears into a project, then realizes they are in over their head and the project dies, sold off or stuffed into storage to "get around to it" one day.

I have the motive setup, you do not need speedy bleeders.
 
Hands down it beats any other DIY method I have ever used or heard of.  YOu fill up the tank with your flavor of brake fluid, screw on the adapter to the M/C, hook it to the tank, pump it up and then you go to your bleeders, put on a clear tube into a drain container and open the bleeder, let it run till it's clear and bubble free, close the bleeder, go to the net one.  Check the tank pressure after bleed #2, probably still good, and move to #3, then do #4, done.
 
 
 

I looked thru my FSM, no info on the fuse.  Looked thru my parts manuals, no info on fuses. 
 
However, I found this
 
https://youtu.be/rjHNHzlHFjE
 
14A fuse

Solder it closed and drill a .030" hole in it.

That is the OP's question.  Where does he tap into the power.  There should be a terminal labeled B on the regulator.  That's where the instructions want you to hook up.

Years ago, when I was a noob, I was changing the oil in my very first Mopar, a 74 Dart SE.  I was using the dipstick as a guide to tell me how much oil it needed.  After 12 quarts and it not being to the full mark yet I stopped.  Waited till the car guy neighbor was home from work and talked to him. 
 
We ended up going to the Dodge dealer to buy a new dipstick, only to be told it was not available.  So we found out how much oil it was supposed to have and bought a universal dipstick.  We put one less than the required amount in, fired up the engine and let it run a bit.  Then we marked the dipstick for add a quart and added another quart, ran the engine and marked the dipstick for full.
 
That is what I would do in this case.
 
 

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/mopar-flathead-6-distributor-upgrade-48-desoto.653565/
 
It's on my to do list

Looks like someone just threw in whatever they could scrounge.  Which pretty much tells you that any plug will do, lol. Just get a fresh set of your choice and run them.
 
I like resistor plugs because I have a radio.

Hate to be a downer, but did you check tire clearances?

Sorry

1939 Chrysler Royal, 242 CID,

https://mymopar.com/mtsc-1949-volume-2-6-transmission-fundamentals/

Covers 2017-2019's
 
https://www.carcarekiosk.com/video/2018_Honda_CR-V_LX_2.4L_4_Cyl./car_seats/install

Parts book usually shows something that'll work.