RedHot71

Plugged the line for the hydro-vac & she fired right up & idles. Thanks for the responses. You guys are a huge help w/these old vehicles.

Thanks for the replies. It just so happens that the hydro-vac brake booster is has been removed to have rebuilt. Never even thought it could be the booster w/a vacuum leak. Will check the fuel delivery & filters as well. Thanks again!!!

My brakes went out all of a sudden & have determined the cause is defective hydro-vac. (1951 Dodge B3J 2 1/2 ton dump truck) The unit is made by Midland casting #C-3389 w/(3) brake line connections & a breather nipple. I ordered a new rebuilt one from Fleet Products out of Canada. Wrong one was sent. Since the shipping is about $60.00 each way, I was hoping for some help on which replacement I need. That casting # is not helping them any. Hoping someone out there is familiar.

All of a sudden my 1951 Dodge B3J 2 1/2 ton truck will not stay running on it's own. (Not sure if it is the 251 or 265 cu. in.) I have to pull the manual choke out 1/2 way & pull the manual throttle out way too far to keep it running. I rebuilt the carb about 6 months ago & it has been OK since about (2) weeks ago. Any suggestions greatly appreciated. Also, any input on where to buy an after market carb to fit this truck?

Thanks for the info. I was afraid of that. Now the issue is which one fits my truck. I found a site, (Cardone) for remanufactured units, but there are different #'s, but they all look the same.

I have a 1951 B3-J 2 1/2 ton dump truck that I had brakes in up until a month or so ago. It has been sitting for awhile to re-wire it. I went to hit the brake pedal to check brake lights & had no resistance. Brake fluid is a little low, but still 3/4 full in the master cylinder. New wheel cylinders and some of the lines have been replaced. There is no trace of leaking. I pulled the pipe plug for the Hydra-Vac & got brake fluid along w/a little pressure. Does that mean I need to replace or re-build that component?

Did not get the PM. Would you please re-send? Thanks in advance.

Whitepost.com. They were a bit pricey, but like brand new. I was very pleased w/them & they work great. I wanna say in the $300.00 range for the (2) rear cylinders. My truck is a B3-J 2 1/2 ton dump. Hope that helps.

Thought I saw that someone had patterns for these items. If so, how do I go about acquiring them or is there a vendor out there that supplies them? Thanks in advance.

Switch is bad, so I figured truck is now 12 volt, go w/12 volt switch. Then I could do away w/the relay that came w/12 volt conversion I purchased. What a waste of money that was. It is easy to do w/o a kit. Cheaper to just buy the parts needed.

Thanks, Good idea.

I have bought new sockets for my parking lights from DCM. There are 2 strand wires instead of 1 like is original. Have converted to 12 volt. My turn signals are mounted on the tops of front fenders & I am trying to clean the looks up. Do I use both of those wires for the new socket. Supposed to put turn signals to parking light position. New headlight switch from DCM as well. Since I converted to 12 volt I bought 12 volt switch. New switch has positions spelled out for connections. batt./park/headlites/stop/accessory/etc...) Original 6 volt has capital letters only. (B/D/R/H/A) What goes where? There is an extra one on the new switch that is unmarked, ground???

I have also bought the sockets for my marker lights from DCM. They are 2 strand wires instead of like the 1 that is original. My turn signal lights are mounted to the tops of my fenders, so is that where I get the other lead from for the 2 strand replacement sockets? I bought new replacement lenses and gaskets and want to sort of clean up the front end a bit. I had also asked previously about the new light switch I bought from DCM as well. I bought the 12 volt switch since I just converted to 12 volt. I was wanting to know what the different letters stood for on the original switch from the wiring diagram. (B/D/R/H/A) New switch has it spelled out for me. (batt./tailites/stop/access./park) There is an extra unmarked screw which I figure is for a ground?

OK. Sorry, do not understand what you are saying. 1st position, 2nd position??? I am not that great w/electric.

Has anyone converted to 12 volt & then had to replace the headlite switch? I figured instead of buying another 6-volt switch & still using the headlite relay that came w/ the 12 volt conversion, I just figured go to 12 volt switch. Problem is, there are 6 connections on 12 volt switch & only 5 on the 6 volt. I looked at the wiring diagram for clarification and all I see are letters. On the new switch it is spelled out. A lot of my wiring has already been replaced and evidently the guy liked green wire for some reason. It's all green. HELP!!! (B3-J 2 1/2 ton dump truck) Why does one of the wires for the original switch go to the brake switch? Also, the new turn signal lever I just installed is supposed to go to that switch as well. Power?