55 Fargo

Hi, there is always a yay or nay, with respect to use of Oil additives, I don't believe they are a cure all, but I don't think it's just snake oil either. Lucas oil stabilizer is one product my Uncle uses in his cars, he is a big sceptic kinda of guy too. My oil prssure is always at 40 lbs at an idle cold or hot, and 55 on the highway I am thinking of using this combo myself........Fred

I had a 1997 Neon Sport coupe, it never burnt oil either, I sold it in 2004, I put on aout 140000 miles on it at that point, it ran like a charm. Edited at 10:02 AM, I just came off nightshift, have not slept since Tuesday night, I am looking after my kids during the day yesterday and today, so I am a little off here. I will not get to sleep until tonight.

I did not realize that these engines used more oil then there comtemporary counterparts. My oil consumption sounds like it would be more in the realm of normalcy, I do have a some good leaking going on from the valve covers and oil pan, no doubt the rear main as well, I am going to replace the valve cover gasket, and oil pan gaskets, the rest can wait for a rebuild someday, or a an engine swap. I do have some minor smoking on de-celleration, I currenyl have Wally world brand oil staraight 40, this crap seems to smoke a little easier, I know it's also re-refined oil, making it used to begin with. I will never use it again, going to start Castrol 20 W 50 today. I at one point had minor leaks from the trans and diff, as I had replaced there lube a few times, by completely draining the both and refilling on 2 occasions. After a some miles and usage, they hardly leak at all, and yes they have lube in them, the seals must have been dry before............Fred

It is leaking pretty darn good, so am sure mostly leakin than drinkin........Fred

At this point I can afford many litres (quarts) of oil, a valve and ring job, or a complete overhaul is a little more, on a budget here, at the moment, I am awre of the proper fix.I am with some of the other guys, gonna try 20 w 50, as the motor has miles, but also has decent compression 100lbs across the board, and 40 lbs of oil pressure at an idle.................Fred ps I live in wholesale city Winnipeg Gary, don't spend big like Torontonians...................LOL

Don, it seems like 1 quart i about 200 miles, I don't see a bunch of blue smoke out the tail pipe, but I do get the odd puff of blue smoke. Since I put in the Wallywrold oil, it seems worse. I think I am going to use Castrol 20W 50 oil, nice and thick.............Fred

Hi all, I have been using oil lately, especially after using Wallyworld brand Straight 40 Diesel oil. I am leaking some, but it seems I am burning oil too now, not sure why, maybe rings. I was thinking of using "Wynns Engine Oil Treatment", but it s got ethol alcohol in it, should I use this stuff in my old engine, or am I asking for trouble, if it starts breaking up crud etc.........Fred

I will check the timing today, yes this makes sense, actually I started the engine after this post, and let her get warmed up, and drained a sample off the bottom of the rad, it was warm and about 40 degrees different than the coolant in the top of the rad, so that seems right, think I am gettin a little stressed over this issue.......Thanx Fred

Hi all, Just noticed something, I came back about an hour ago from my ride, engine temp 165, outside ambient temp 62, after an hour I took a sample off the bottom of the rad drain to see what it looked like, the coolant was quite cool, while on the top of the rad, it was still hot to the touch, is this normal after an hour or more of sitting, you would think they would be a uniform temp by then, maybe this rad is partially plugged, works well in the cooler weather, then heats up in warmer weather, just an idea, extremely sorrryif I am being a pain about the heat problem, don't know who else to discuss this with, and my shrink wants a $150 per hour.............Fred

Just pulled the head, almost no ridge on the top of the cylinder, very dirty in there, I was able to spin a few of the valves, head gasket was in great shape, a few of the water holes were somewhat plugged. I removed all the bolts no sweat, wonder if no cylinder ridge, no valve sludge = low mileage. The engine rebuild tag indicates it was rebuilt in Winnipeg, using the Chrysler method, not sure if it was done at a Chrysler dealership or not. I think this may end up being my engine to rebuild,...................Fred

Hello, the only problem, is the engine is seized at the moment, it is in my Chrysler Parts car, I am not sure what the history is throughout the 60's, but do know it was licensed in the early 70s, as I found an old paper indicating so. This car was beat, oh don't get me wrong, there was dirt in the valve chamber, but not much, there was still oil sitting in there.........PS maybe I should try and get it unstuck

No Bob, I see zen master next to your name, you made a good looking puller there, so you are more of mechanic than most........glad it worked for you

Hi all, on my parts car, I have a 251 engine with full-flow oil filtration, it also has a rebuild tag dated 1956. I was able to unbolt a majority of the head bolts, that was amazing. The valve chambers, next to nothing for sludge or crud, as most of you normally find in an old flathead. I suppose the full-flow filter makes a difference. I hope mine looks like that when I go in there very soon to have a looksy. This 251 I have is going to be my re-build of choice engine for my car in the future, it has the right engine ID too..........Fred

Bob, another simple method is to rmove the drum and backing plate as usual, then re-attach the drum on the axle, put on the nut and washer, genlty use the drum as a slide hammer, worked great for me.........Fred

Is the Ethanol Blended fuel , causing the breakdown of rust, or any crud to break free, and reek havoc in the filters fuel lines etc. I wanted to find a used gas tank for my car, but bought a new one from Tanks.inc, for $250.00. I think it was a good move, new tank, new lines, new pump, clean carb, and hopefully no crud problems. I think we should call this new gas syndrome, "Lowball Gas", because it only has 10% alcohol, good stuff should be at least 80 proof (40% alcohol), Don this phenomena hasn't hit Tennesee, or Georgia, as the Hooch Stills there put out the finest blue burning on the spoon shine for the oil refiners to add to the blend.......................LOL

Okay, exactly what could I expect for a ride and handling difference, this sounds like a good mod to be making...................Fred

To Storekeep60, Glad the kit worked out well. Not to be a smartallec, but why would you be blowing or /have leaking wheel cyls every summer, were they new cyls each time? What type of brake fluid do you use, sounds like your car sits ou the winter too. A lot of guys I know use Disc brakes up front, but more use the OEM brakes, while some have had problems as you describe, but a majority, have no problems, just a question, not critisism.........Fred

Filled the cooling sysytem up with deionized water and 25% antifreeze, went for a highway drive, ran at 160 all the way, but it is miserable cold here tonight, around 30 and windy, so not a very good time to decie, she is cured of her poor cooling abilities..........Fred

If your cooling system is in good order,why not. A 180 stat, opens at about 176 to 182, and should be fully open around 200. If you are running at 180 to 185 in the summer heat and don't go over 200 on real hot days or driving slow in traffic, should be good to go. If you are not comfortable with that go with a 160, which opens at 157 to 162 and is fully open around 180. I think it's better for these engines to operate at around the 180 mark or so, rather than say 155 to 160, which is a little on the cool side................Fred

I would say the hot end would be 212, so if your 3/4 the way, you are probably at 180 or so, should be okay, the 160 mark should be arounf 1/2 maybe, justa guess though...........Fred ps running the engine at 180, is probably better than at 160

Just emptied the rinse water, it came out of the block like a race horse relieving itself, water was clean with a few crumbs that flew out of the block first. Next will run straight distilled water, with water pump conditioner, such as redline water wetter, see how that goes on a hot day, if all well, will introduce 25 % antifreeze, and strengthen to 50 % in fall. I need to find out on a hot day what the temps will be doing on the highway..................Fred

Hi all, re-filled the cooling system with clean water today, for the final rinse/purge of using the Electrosol treatment. The system took somewhere around 17 US quarts to fill, does that sound right. I filled up the rad and block have a small hole in t/stat to allow air to escape. Got it filled up, to just above the rad core in the top of the rad, then started engine, let it warm up, added some more water, temp gauge shot up to 180, then t/stat opened, temp then settled to 170, I added the rest of the water to bring it's level to 2 inches below rad cap hole. The temp gauge in car was now settled at 160, I would give the engine some gas, the temp gauge would drop to 150, the temp in the rad was around 150, I have a 160 thermostat and the ambient temp at this point today is a yucky 34 . If I let the engine idle it would settle in at around 160, the temp would be 155 in the top of the rad, if I revved up the engine for a few minutes, the temp gauge would drop to 150, and you could tell the t/stat would close a bit, the temp would come up a bit. The whole time the heater in the car had a nice even temp, stayed warm I could stick my finger inside of the rad, it was good and warm, but would not burn my fingers. The rad had an even temp change from top to bottom. So what is going on here, even when it was colder, I could not let here idle like this for 20 minutes and have the temp remain at 150 to 160 on the gauge, it was always 165 on the gauge and 155 in the rad, now the rad temp and gauge temp are very close. Could it be possible I either had blockage before, or not enough coolant, causing problems. The real test will come when the weather warms up next week, it is very chilly here today. I would not want my engine to run at 155, on a longterm basis, would want it up closer to 180. Is it okay for me to keep straight water in the cooling system for a week or 2 , so I can see what she will run at, I have it indoors, so even if it gets cool at night the temp in my garage will be above 40...........Thanx guys Fred

I know Roberts has them,I am going to buy them locally at a place called Piston Ring Stores, an Autovalue parts store member, or NAPA, in the states JC Whitney or Carquest may have them, will not buy from Burnbomb.

Well aren't you the lucky one, good go, nice surprise...........Fred

I don't it is causal for any overheating, but it sure will add to underhood heat and fuel problems in hot weather, plus I mentioned there could be an intake leak at the moment.........Fred