55 Fargo

Robert and Tim, I have the remainder of the bolt out, my threads were damaged on the bottom 1/3 are missing, and the hole is out of round. I can trhead a 3/8 bolt in the hole, but it does not seal, the coolant will flow out of there like a geyser, I FFFFed up big time. I really thought I was dead center to start, but the bolt was damaged so I goofed up, the bolt actually cut like butter, I used really cheap drill bits and none broke. Now what do I do, drill it for a 7/16 bolt, install a heli coil, any other solution, Man I am a lousy mechanic, but that was my very first time doing that job, poverty is the mother of invension for me, otherwise I would have brought this in to a big shop in Winnipeg. Thanx guys, I am burnt out tonight

Hi all, drilled out the bolt today, I marked what I thought was a dead center start, unfortunately it is off to one side, but went in straight at least. I have phoned around to a few shops, no one wants to finish the job. The guy who was going to come over and fix it, was not able to come out for a couple of weeks, he is so busy. I have no idea what else to do, I have no clue how to fix this, I give up for now......................Fred

Not saying the surface isn't true, but had no issue with manifold leaks before , so will clean it up and re-install, my pocketbook is stretched out enough right now...............Fred

Thanx Norm, will maybe try that with the rest of it, as it is not completely removed yet......Fred

Here is a pic of the engine side cleaned up and painted, and 1 pic of the rebuilt heatriser assembly. I still need to get the bolt out of the block, paint manifolds, with Tremclad Highheat Black. Plan to extract the bolt on Friday morning..........Fred

Hi all, does anyone know the corrrect sequence to tighten down the manifold nuts. I think Don C mentioned the centre must be done first, I know they are to torqued to 15 to 20 lbs, I will be doing this without my torque wrecnh, going by fell, these you do not want to overtighten and crack the manifolds.........Fred

Tim, I can relate to a start like this, what are the plans for this "Big Butt"?

Well Merle, there was no weld that stuck to the end, the weld was filling up the inside of the nut but would not bond to the end. I can grind it flattter, and start drilling I suppose, this is not complicated surgery, more of a calculated approach, and nothing to be rushed while doing the job, it will be done this week.........Fred

Hi all, sorry to report I have not got this broken bolt out of my block yet. I have tried to weld on a nut, did this a number of times, did not work, wish it had. I have tried heating the nut, but I only have a propane torch, not enough heat. I have a local Millwright coming over later this week, let him get it out, if not I will try and drill it out myself. But with everything off this side of the engine, I was able to clean the block, will paint after the bolt is out, painted the heat plate for the fuel pump. I am going to paint the manifolds, replace valve cover gaskets, it was suggested I find the ticking valve and adjust it, I am a little leary of touching these adjustment, it is not that noisy, but would be nice to quiet it down. I made a new fleax fuel line for the fuel pump to main fuel line, it worked out nice, and it was cheap. Hopefully will update later when the job is done. I als got a timing light and tach/dwell meter given to me by a friend, so will be able to see where my engine timing is at when this job is finished......thanx Fred

Hi all, I have to replace 3 manifold studs that did back out when I was removing the manifolds. I bought 3 new ones, what is the correct procedure to install? I figure it is as this, please correct if I am worng, apply coat of "never seize", on the threads, torque the stud down till it stops at no thread area, would that be it? Thanx Fred

This morning I brought my intake, heatriser spring, counter weight, to the shop where my exhaust manifold is sitting. The shop owner is going to make a new shaft out of stainless, install, slit end of shaft for the thermo spring as per Chrysler picture and design, and hopefully it will work again, all for $30.00

Hi Dave, I figure this engine is not too bad inside, itwas from a 1951 Canadian Plymouth, it's a 25 inch block 218, around 100 hp. This engine was being used in the above noted car unitl around 1980 or so, it was in the country, probably all highway miles. Last check, compression was 100 to 110 on all cyls, oil pressure at an idle 40 lbs, on the highway 55 lbs. One lifter continues to tick, when idling it has the sound of a slight mis, maybe a valve, or possibly timing/carb, not sure. I am hoping to get a few years use out of it, while I finish the rest of the car, then maybe a rebuild of a 251 I have, I kinda like the idea of the 218, as it has a much shorter stroke than a 251......................Fred

Sorry, an oversight, musta thought you guys meant the chamber in between the intake and exhaust where the flapper closes, as mine does not seal completely shut, but has a slight gap when closed. I did not realize another thread was discussing a similar topic, this repair job has me a little stressed, so may not notice all that is posted, not a lot of available help in my locale with this engine......Fred

Don, it's an enclosed chamber under the carb, so nothing can sucked into the intake, it would allow a tiny amount of warm exhaust I suppose.

Hi all, and Thanx Robert, I took my exhaust manifold to a machine/welding shop to have the heatriser unseized, they unseized it no problem, with a decent torch and some WD 40, not sure why it didn"t work for me. I was talking with the owner, and he said he could make a new shaft for the heatriser, as mine was damaged on the end the counter weight and spring onto, thus allowing the heatriser to work again. So I left the exhaust manifold at his shop, tomorrow I will bring the intake, the counter weight and spring, and they will make it work again, custom built, no kit. I did notice when the flapper would shut on the heatriser, it does not shut absolutley closed, is that normal, there is a slight gap, probably won't hurt anything though. One thing went well today, the Millwright, might come over and remove the broken piece of bolt in my block too, probably next wek..............Fred

Greg , I am replacing 3 studs that backed out,should I put a little sealant on the threads first so no coolant leaks out them, or is that unecessary............Fred

I would have the shaft removed, then leave whats left in the holes, , then tack weld a plate to cover, the area, there will be nothing to cover. I will do it like this for 2 reasons, just in case at some point I wish to go with a new heatriser assembly, that way I can remove what is there and do the install. I also have another set of manifolds, but the heat riser has been removed from that set.............Fred

Robin, thanx, I have done something sinilar, I may laminate it to 1/8 hardboard or something similar to make it rigid and level, mine looks much like yours did, very acceptable.........Fred

Thats why I would like to if possible, get this shaft to turn, thus allowing the flap to turn, but not likely this will happen will it. What a real PITA

Ed, the manifold is on the bench, off of the engine, so it should be easier yet.........Fred

Hi all, so far I have tried heat, with a torch, penetrating oil, and brute force, but I cannot move the heatriser flap. I have the manifold on the bench, I have tried the above, I may send it to a shop, not sure, but may just open it allowing exhaust to flow, I would have done this but no movement yet. I have not tackled the broken bolt in the block yet, want to have back-up with me, I have to try and weld a nut on the end of this stub, and it is right close to the block, and everything was greasy, the fule lines ar not overly far either. I might try applying heat and the penetrating oil cooling action, will see, may that might work well..........Fred Once all this is fixed, I will lean everything up, paint it and re-install.

Don, did you use fine thread or course thread for the 4 bolts joining your intake/exhaust manifold. Mine were originally fine, but will use course, if I can't find suitable replacements, as Greg has mentioned, fine threads torque better, 15 to 20 ft lbs I think.

Another question Don, how does your run at first, when cold, without a heatriser.........Fred

Don, just as you have pictrued here, long nut and bolt, yes mine is a long block. A little sludge problem, I see, wonder is STP would have prevented that......LOL My parts car engine did not even have any sludge, I have never seen sludgelike that before. Should I have that kinda sludge, hey hold on here I am getting confused...............LOL