55 Fargo

Hi all, sorry about asking this ? on the open forum. A couple of years ago, I accidentally dropped and broke off about 8 inches off the long front whisker trim on my 47 Club Coupe. This specimen was in real decent shape, so I flet like clubbing myself over it. I have 2 or 3 right side long trims, but of course they are not interchangeable. I am wondering if anyone has a left front long whisker trim they might be willing to trade for a decent right long trim, or any other trim, I have a few of the shorter trim pieces too. I am also in dire need of another park light lense too? I just though I would throw this out to our members, and see if anyone might be interested.I realize this is mostly Plymouth and Dodge owners on here, but maybe someone knows where I can find a trim piece that I am looking for....Fred

Glad it worked out for you Steve, may do it myself someday....

Reg, whatever sand blaster you use, it may be wise to run your compressor at 15 minutes on, with a 10 to 15 break, or 20 on 20 off, just to allow this unit to cool down. To sandblast you probably would do best with a true 5 hp dual stage compressor with a minimum 60 gallon tank with a 15 to 20 cfm output at 100 psi. Most hobbyists, home shops don't have such an animal, so big sandblasting jobs are tough and tough on the compressor, plus it takes a long time. In my area we have a Tombstone maker, he custom sandblasts anythings you want up to about 6 ft by 8ft , for a buck a minute, and he gets a lot done in a minute, a typical rim takes him maybe 10 minutes both side, and super nice job. He did my trunk lid inside and out charged my 25 dollars.

No, that depends on more variables, compressor pump size, single stage,dual stage,output,capacity, tank size, hose size and length. This calculaotr determines electric motor hp, it does not calculate cfm capacity of compressor pumps. At 10 cfm on 90 psi, your probably close, don't froget those blasted siphon feed blasters suck a lot of juce, how is your's for spray painting or running a DA sander...Fred

Here you go Reg, a calculator for the true HP of an electric motor. The S is standard I believe. I did the calculation for your compressor which is calculated a true 3 hp, which is not bad for a protable, this should be good for a lot of items at 10 cfm at 90 psi, certainly enough for painting with a lot of low cfm guns, and maybe some pressure pot sandblasting, those pesky siphon feed blasters suck a lot of air and are crappy IMHO, I have one so talking from my own experience. Acompressor like yours would be fine for Joe's needs too. Here is the link http://www.onlineconversion.com/motor_horsepower.htm

All the 60 gallon compressor with a 5hp motor are 220 volt that I have seen. Hereis a link explaining electrric hp on electric motors on 110 volt as well as 220 volt, and what true hp ratings are. http://www.kevinsbrady.net/motors.pdf

Thanx Bob, I am gonna give this a try with mine as they are getting hard to come by, but it won't happen till my body and paint is finished, thats my priority right now......Fred

Yah, sounds like the same, they can be run at 50 to 75 % duty cycle, in other words, 30 to 45 minutes out of an hour, I would run mine 15 minutes non-stop on 10 minutes off, without hesitation. I can run air nailers, impact guns, lower cfm spry paint guns, my sand blast cabinet, and some DA sanders. I would not use my machine commercially, and if I were to do it again would get a 5 hp, 60 gallon 220 volt unit at a minimum, something with 15 to 20 cfm at 100 psi. To date I have not had problems with mine, but it reall is for occasional light. to medium duty use. I am sure I could paint my whole car, with an HVLP gun that needs only 7 to 9 cfm at 40 psi going into the gun. I can prime a door and fender with it not even cyling on, if I did the whole front end, it would cyle on once or twice max, should keep up for a car, with a spraygun that does not demand too much air volume, the 30 gallon tank makes a difference.....Fred

Hi all, my JB weld did not hold, I need to as some of have said need some type of reinforcement like a metal tube or strip. I will try again when I have more time, where there is a will there is a way...Fred

Hi all, decided not to do any body work today, I figure I have about a good weeks worth of prep before she be ready for paint, that be about 40 to 50 hours of me working by myself. I have the roof to fo yet, then high build primer goes on the entire car, then blocking and finessing the bad spots. Today I pulled out a beat-up pair of rocker trims, and proceeeded to straighten them, they are bent dented, some stretching, you name. I go the shape back, but lots of lettle dimples to fix, then I hope they can be polished back to a nice shine, we shall see. I will most likely someday , try and get a better set, but will either use these for now, or go without, I like the look without rocker trim as well. So whats the consensus, do yall mostly have the rocker trims, or have some of you shaved them off................Fred

Hi all, I occasionally use JB weld for some fixin. Today I decided to try and JB Weld the end piece that broke off my long fender whisker trim. Being pot metal, I think it's possible to be soldered with a special solder, but tried the JB Weld fix. I made a jig to clamp the trim piece into position, then Jbwelded the edges on trim, and clamped together, it is now curing. I will see how it is in the morning, this doesn't have to be super structually strong, just enough to hold the last 6 inches of trim to the main trim, not sure if this will work or not, but will find out. I broke this trim a few years ago, it was in decent shape, and never did get a good replacement, and their not cheap to buy. I also broke a park light lense once, hard lessons, oh yeah burnt the back seattoo, but that needed recovering anyway.....LOL

Hammer and dolly work is all done, with the exception of the roof, my filler is not thick by no means, mostly about 1/16 of an inch up to 1/8 in spots, and few small areas a tad thicker, which is for me totally acceptable. On my rear fenders, it was the bottom back corners that were really beat-up, they had the usual, dimples like crazy, cracks, I hammered out this tin then weded cracks, little holes etc, then filler work, but sometimes you need a large coverage to get a panel level and smooth, not deep filler, just expansive over the intended area. The majority of the car has very little if any filler, like the rear 1/4s, the doors, hardly any fillers, the front fenders, have some filler on the top to level out things after the hammer and dolly work to take care of small dimples etc. I am not laying on thick fillers to avoid trying to shape things up first, these fenders would have been a lot of work for even a seasoned body man let alone a greenhorn, such as I. I have seen filler work that is 1 inch thick, up to 1/4 is the general outer limits with 1/8 inch thick being acceptable.I like to keep it as thin as possible, but when doing big areas, I have found it's best to finish a fillered area with a toatl skim coat of filler or 2 part glaze that overlaps the entire filled area, and then some, helps to make things straight. I have heard of the resin in the filler trick, but have never tried it, I would imagine the resin would rise to the surface allowing a smoother sand...

I basically am doing what you are saying, but maybe you can hit an area with 1 coat of filler block it and your on your way, I am not this good,"yet". If I am hitting area with filler that is 8 inches by 24 inches, I have a lot of imperfewctions, the filler is going on thin, a lot of it is no where near 1/8 of an inch, and a few places it may be slightly thicker. I usually go one coat of filler, sand and shgape, follwed by another coat of filler, out past the perimeter of the initial coat, then sand with finher paer as you say, then if it needs a touch of glaze I do it, the primer can take care of the rest, I hope....LOL ps, should I use the finer bondo or the coarser less brittle bondos, you are right that they are more brittle, remember old Marson White Lighting

Well Deez, initially was using only regular lightweight body filler, then glaze, found out about the gold premium fillers. Once my last gallon of lightweight filler is finished will stick with the premium gold fill and finish filler and 2 part polyester glaze for the fine finishing. A lot of bodyman I have talked with on other websites, like autobody 101, and Hotrodders bulletin, use a regular filler for the initial build coat and to create the shape/contour, then switch to the more expensive finer stuff to go on top to finish and block with. A lot of them don't glaze, but use there high build primer and block that instead, and use the primers more in there finishing. Not sure I have ever had compatibility amongst polyester fillers, not saying there couldn't be, just never had this problem, some are better and finish much finer than others. The cheaper lightweight filler I use is about $15.00 a gallon, but it is courser, and tends to clog the paper and get sanding scratches much easier. The gold fill and finish filler, made in Canada by www.proformproducts.ca ,I also use there 2 k urethane high build primer surfacer, I get it for $65 a gallon. The gold filler is much nicer to work with, sands well, does not hardly clog any sandpaper. So far so good.......

Thanx for the kind comment Bob, I do a lot of credit to guys like you and this forum, for which my project might not have been possible without such great help. When it comes to bodywork, I give a lot of credit to Rodney Bullock,Tim Adams, Robert KB, Steveplym, Dezeldoc, Joelokie,and Young Ed, these guys have answered a lot of my endless questions, and Tims experienced advice has carried me a long way. Yall have been a big help, in educated me and walking me through a lot of uncharted territory. Rodney's car pics are a tremendous inspiration for all of us, wow what a collection of fine automobiles. I have always enjoyed answering your question's too Joe flanagan, good to be of some help to you, if infact I was. Well enough blather, off to nightshift for work......Fred

Not sure if your car was a lacquer hjob form the factory, didn't Chyrsler Corp use Baked Enamel for most of their car lines well ino the late 50s or early 60s before they switched to acrylic enamel. The fender welt can be painted, not sure it won't peel though this vinyl stuff, I am using mine as black, don't mind the look.....Fred

Joe, I have used the Ultra glass sparingly, I use the regular lightweight filler to build and shape, then a type of Gold fill and finish filler, then for glazing I am using a 2 part polyester glaze. I have not glazed a lot yet, but will after the first coats of 2 k high buld primer are laid down. I am now using the Evercoat metal 2 metal filler in those areas that would have used the Ultra Glass before, over weld seams, and for areas to water proof.It is a metal filler that is of a high quality, some say closest thing to lead, not sure about that. I would just use any regular filler for the inital build and shape, then switch to Rage Gold or Extreme to skim and finish up the area, sand to a nice feather edge, then shoot your 2 k urethane high build, then guide coat mist block 220, see what you got,fill everything, lay on some more primer/surfacer, block with 400 or 500, and you should there, if not block with 220 and see where your at, repeat if necessary...........Fred.Jor you gootta remeber, I am not a bodyman, you are not a body man, we can still get good results, but this second nature for guys who do this all the time.......Fred ps I am going to be satisfied with a half-way decent paint job in the end, don't need or want a show finish, thats not me, and I don't want to be worried where I park the car at any given moment, or worse, not wanting to drive it for fear of an accident....

Ed shop around, maybe pick that stuff up for less at a re-store, then you can put all the savings inot important projects like Spot, and Scrappy. What are you looking for 2 1/4 colonial type base in Oak Trim, or the finger jointed pine pre-primed. I like the look of maple , they sell a lot of the MDF stuff, not what I like, but its works someitmes better than the pine, as it cuts smoother, they both look the same anyway when painted. Tim, you could use a quicker set mud, or even the low-dust stuff, let the AC run a bit to draw humidity out the house, and even get some floor fans moving air.

Shot primer on fender, it looked good while primer was still glossy. I used my secret formula base primer, as don't want to use 2 k urethane until it's warmer outside and I can have doors up and electric furnaces off. Next step on this fender once primer is cured is to shoot on 2 to 3 coats of 2 k urethane high build primer/surfacer, then will block with guidecoat and see what I got, fix the flaws and 2 more coats of primer to be followed by a blocking wetsanding with 400 to 500, this is if all is well, this is the sequence I am using for all panels with the exception of the roof, I may use the superthick polyester filler primer up there first before surfacing and blocking, this roof is rough............Fred ps Tim A, only got a tiny run in one corner of the fender, getting better at this

Ed, 50s for you guys, and about 40 for us Ed next week. It is a super beautiful moring here, clear sunny and biggest blue sky you ever saw, Montana is Big Sky country in the US, and Manitoba is in Canada. Ed, I am very much a Neophyte, learning as I go, but each time I seem to get a little better, with laying on the fillers and blocking them off. Now I wish I could use a torch, I need to learn that someday, for brazing, shrinking metal etc. I have taken a lot of filler dust in my nasal passages and lungs, now beofre you guys get on this. I cannot wear a dusk mask, as my glasses fog up, and I only have 1 respiratotr, and don't want to get it full of filler dust. I sand a bit then clean up whats fallen ,and carry on. I have found for my filler sanding the best for me, is 80 on large filler areas, 100 on smaller areas, then 120 or 150, thats it, then primer/surfacer, and then blocking with 220. I have 36 grit paper, but even on large filler areas, find this is very rough, you have to be careful on not taking the filler down to fast and leaving bi scratches. I sue a 16 long board a lot, but have found the 9 inch rubber block, and sponge block rapped in sand paper a better frined, and more control, maybe I am wrong with this, but so far this is my experience. Rodney, your right, not going to get pefection, no where near on my first job like this, but close will be comfortable, things can always be fine tuned even a few years later. Tim, enjoy the weather, send some our way, next March I am going to Florida, just still trying to figure out how I can get over to your place for a coffee, if we get down there...............Fred

Looks great Rodney, I got the rear fender all prepped and fillered, blocked and ready for primer surfacer, it turned out not bad. Plan to shoot on 3 coats of Urethane primer/surfacer, then will blcok that with 220, might spray a guide coat too, then will corect any more flaws, followed by 2 more coats of primer/surfacer, and will wetsand with 400/500..........Fred

Rodney the fenders were roughed up, but there coming along, will have em done soon, there gettin pretty good now. I wished there were someon like the old gentleman you mentioned but there's not.....Fred

Rodney, sounds like this keeps you very busy looking after your fleet, A guy I work with who is a good friend, has a collection, he is always busy getting something done or changed or upgraded. This guy even has a bar stool with a 6 hp Briggs and Stratton engine that dirves the darn thing, it came from Florida. I am getting a little discouraged tonight, working on the right rear fender, this sucker was real bad to begin with, and if I even get a better specimen, this one will get unbolted, and replaced, which will be easy, cuz the bolts are all new and turn in and out with ease. I will get this fender to the best I can and be done with it, it should be pretty good. My trouble is I don't know anybody around here with a body shop, guys I know who have experience promise to come and help out, but never show up, so it is me all myself plugging away, sometimes in very uncharted territory. My pockets are too lean to send her to a shop, I will do all the prep, and let my friends brother paint her, or maybe better yet, take her to Maaco in Winnipeg, they do decent work at this fracnhise, they have a 70 Cuda on a rottiserie in there shop right now waitng for paint, they doa lot of classic cars and antiques,prices are right, maybe I can get them to the final tweaking before paint, might cost me another $500, on top of the $499.00 for the enamel special.........................Fred