keithb7

Forecast is 104F here next week. I like 20W40 oil in my de-sludge’d flathead engine. 
 
My version of an auxiliary electric fuel pump:
 
 
 

Front seal leak might be attributed to a groove worn in the crank sealing surface. A speedi-sleeve install can often fix it. 
 
An oil pan gasket that was trimmed too short could cause an oil leak at the front of the oil pan. 
 
Loose oil pan mounting bolts could allow for a leak. 
 
Rarely the case in these old engines, synthetic oil will leak out or almost everywhere. Don’t use it in these old engines. 
 
A warped front timing chain cover can cause an oil leak. Over the past 80 year some people have really pounded in a new front seal. A proper press is better. It does not cause deflection in the front cover. 

My understanding is when cold, a slight exhaust valve tick is fine. When exhaust valves heat up they expand and the valve lash tightens. Then the tick goes away. A little wider lash means better exhaust cooling. Especially important at longer distance hi-way speed trips.  If lash it too tight, when the valves heat up, some may not be closing completely, leading to an engine miss. Most noticeable at idle . Eventually leading to a burnt valve and a dead cylinder.
 
The valve lash very well could have been your initial problem. It sounds like you have found a decent mechanic who understands these old flatheads. Not an easy thing to find!

You could. Just be mindful of the crank. No bogging down in 3 rd gear  on a steep hill with the throttle floored. No oval lap dirt racing or towing a 23 ft RV trailer.  Then you’ll be fine. 

This should help you::
 
 

I recently bought one on the 37-38-39 Mopar Cars Facebook group. $35
 
 

Here's the cutter I used.  I know there are more professional ways to do this. For a hobbyist at home, it worked fine. No shortage of grunt effort though.