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52cranbrook4

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Everything posted by 52cranbrook4

  1. I've read a lot on the page about explorer rear end swap but I would like to know if anyone has done the ranger rear swap? If so aside from spring perches does the drive shaft need to be modified? Will the plymouth drive shaft bolt up to the ranger rear end? I'm looking at doing this soon if I can figure it out? Any pictures and advice would be appreciated. I'm not interested in 4 wheel disc though.
  2. So what did you do for the transmission side of the driveshaft?
  3. Did the drive shaft bolt right up to the ranger rear end?
  4. Thank you Don, I am not sure if these members are still around or active or have reached their quota of answering the same questions lol... you guys have all been really informative for me and I have actually learned quite a bit. Thank you again...
  5. Sorry to comment on an older post but was curious about what fab work was needed to do the rear end swap... I'm assuming the perches will need to be moved and what about driveshaft and rear yoke? I have a ranger rear end and did a couple measurements and the drive shaft seems to be a direct bolt up...
  6. Tones52 thank you. I haven't focused on the radio like I thought I was going to. Instead I got the rest of my paperwork in order and insurance and started driving it... I'm going to try with the radio aging this week. Thank you again.
  7. I've been trying to call the guy from Audio imports all day but I keep getting a busy signal and cannot find him online. There is another guy in either Rancho or Fontana I cannot remember. Here is his number
  8. Hey Tony what speaker are you using? Sounds great. I have a 52 cranbrook and just got my radio working. Replaced all the tubes and vibrator. Speaker is torn and very brittle. Thanks in advance. 20170416_152256.3gp
  9. Sooo.... after about an hour and a half of checking all the wiring I broke down and took apart the wiring from the switch.... and yep I messed up. When color coding from the book I put one brown where a green should have been. And now she is good as new. Check brake and turn signals off the list!
  10. I'm starting to think I wired the actual switch backwards. Meaning front driver wired to rear driver and vice-versa...
  11. Ok so I rewired my lighting system in my 1952 plymouth cranbrook. It came with factory turn signals but the steering wheel switch was broken. I ordered a new one and put it in. Ran all new wiring from front to back for lighting. Everything works perfect except when I press my brakes my front driver side signal marker comes on. I thought maybe it was a bad wire so that's why I redid all the lighting wires... anybody experience this before or may have a solution? My only thought is the actual switch that the wires go into is bad... what I replaced was the metal ring that the lever screws into... thanks again in advance
  12. You are the best. Thank you so very much. This has been tremendous
  13. You are awesome. Thank you so much. One last question see attached pic.
  14. Ok... so I just need to swap the clutchclutch fork rod? I have the spring, hook, and eye bolt I posted before. Is the bracket that the eye bolt mounts to something that unfolds or is that welded to the frame? In the only image I found of my car it appears that it's a bolt on item and I have a threaded hole where it would be... would I also just remove the rest of the linkage or just swap the rod? Thank you so much again. I hope I'm not being too much of a rookie. Lol.
  15. So the pics I posted are not required for my specific vehicle? The cars original OD trans is long gone and I have a 1950 unit in its place but the 52 bell housing and clutch is still there. Can I convert to overcenter spring setup? This is my first mopar vehicle. Thank you for the help in this. I would love to drive the car sometime soon this was one of final steps for that.
  16. Hello everyone. I have a bunch of questions in regards to the 1952 plymouth cranbrook clutch set up. To start my pedal just lays on the floor. A friend of mine has a 51 and he has a big spring located off the pedal mounting to an eye bolt on the frame... I do not have this. I also do not have any mount point on the frame for said eye bolt... I read that the 52 did not use this spring am I reading that right? Also what steps would I take to get a pedal that comes back up? Any actual car pictures would be greatly appreciated. The manual seems to only show a single picture of a set up without an overcenter spring which for my capacity isn't much of a help. I will attach a pic of what I'm talking about. Thank you very much for the help.
  17. Thank you very much for this post. You saved me a lot of time and hassle trying to find a place. I dropped off all four drums and 8 shoes today and he quoted me $74 for it all. Very much appreciated
  18. I don't think vibration will play a role with the stainless. But to be safe I picked up 20 feet of 5/16 stainless just a bit ago. Really don't want to do the flare game so I'm debating compression fittings but can flare if have to...
  19. I've never changed out fuel lines before and like I said I have the 1/4" stainless already. Now the next big question is flare or compression fittings?
  20. Maybe I should have included I'm keeping my stock flathead 218....
  21. I had a question regarding fuel lines... stock lines are 5/16" and I was curious if reducing them to 1/4" would be bad. I have a few sticks of 1/4" stainless I wanted to use if possible for new lines. I'm also running a small electric fuel pump just outside of the tank then running it into the manual on the block. Thanks in advance.
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