rferg

What you're talking about is a major difference with transistorized ignition. Stock ignition makes a lot of amperage - which causes burnt electrodes and points - transistorized ignition makes higher voltage - lower amperage spark. And thus less wear. But the best part of trans/ignition is that it burns through carbon deposits and actually cleans them away. That's why trans systems start easier and are less prone to missing. I have an old heath kit ignition system. It has a switch to allow CDI or normal ignition. When I first turn it to CDI it misses a while until it cleans the plugs of carbon and then runs great. CDI and Transistor systems are not the same however. CDI is actually much too strong - it's high voltage and high amperage. It will burn wires out, cap and rotor electrodes, and increase plug gap quickley. I've experienced early CDI systems that wires only lasted 6 weeks on. All modern ignition systems are transistor systems - they're pretty easy to build using a heat sink, large transistor, 1 diode, and a 40 ohm resistor. and the best part is you can use your existing points system - they'll never burn again with that 40 ohm resistor restricting current through them. But, as much as I like building these things - an 80's style ignition system is cheaper and can also be used with points.

3 spped manual trans when unable to get it into 1st and rev - check the screw on the side, under the top shift lever. It's a slotted screw head. after removal check the length of the shoulder past the end of the threads - should be about 1/4" if it's less - it's sheared off. If the pin shoulder is sheared, it allows the vertical shaft to move up, instead of the internal lever, so it can't engage the 1st/rev rake shaft. Use a magnet to find the sheared end (in the lube). Can't help in finding a new screw - I had one in another old tranny.

I think there is one scenario you guys have missed. There's a slotted screw under the top lever - it is a pin to keep the vertical shaft from moving up. If it is sheared, the shaft will raise instead of the internal lever. The shoulder should be at least 1/4" past the end of the threads - if not, it's sheared off!