Radiator Cap Lbs Of Pressure???

[BobT-47P15]

Just got a P15 radiator back from a local shop.....he charged $65 to remove

the top and bottom tanks, rod it or boil it out, repair some leaks, and reassemble.

He said not over a 4 pound cap....preferably a non pressure one.

[55 Fargo]

I'm planning on driving to redlands from vista(north cnty san diego) soon...about an hour and a half drive. I wanna make sure she's gonna be runnin as cool as possible. The overdriv should help some.......

Again, as long as you are running at 175 to 190 degrees, and no more than 200, going up hills in the Redlands area, in the San Bernadino County heat, over 100 degrees these days, you should be fine.

If however you are having issues with overheating, you better deal with this before a trek In So Cal, this time of year.............Fred

[55 Fargo]

Just got a P15 radiator back from a local shop.....he charged $65 to remove

the top and bottom tanks, rod it out, repair some leaks, and reassemble.

He said not over a 4 pound cap....preferable a non pressure one.

Bob, your rad is a non-pressurized rad to begin with, isn't it?

Or do you have another rad than OEM type?

If you have an OEM type, you could have a 100 lb cap, it will not build pressure anyway.

Intersting, is your rad tube and fin, or honeycomb type, up here they will not touch honeycomb rads for rodding, they say it can't be done...............Fred

[BobT-47P15]

I found it interesting that he mentioned the four pound figure.

I said.....actually, is a non pressure system and needs a non pressure

cap.

He said that that is correct. Not sure why he even bothered to toss

the pressure thing in. Guess just in case he thought I might use

something that would be detrimental to the radiator.

This guy has been in the business ever since I moved to Joplin in 1968.

His father ran the place before him. I have taken any radiator repair

ever needed to him and the work is always good.

Did not ask him which type the rad is......will try to remember to inquire.

[55 Fargo]

Now that looks like my kinda place, wish we will had an old time shop like that here.................Fred

[BobT-47P15]

If you think the outside is dandy, you oughta see all the rusty crap

inside. Like an old roll around tool box with a drawer pulled partially

out. All rusty, with a hole eaten thru the bottom of the drawer. And

other similar stuff. Kinda dark and grungy, but neat in there.

[BobT-47P15]

The radiator man said today it is NOT a honeycomb type.

He said those are on older models.

This one does not, however, have tubes that run straight from top to

bottom. He called the system cubic......

The radiator that he fixed came from a P15. supposed to be a 49 model.

It has numbers similar to the earlier picture.

Looks like this.......

[james curl]

Bob T, It appears that someone took the overflow line and moved it. The overflow line comes from the chamber in the center of the radiator and goes all of the way to the bottom of the radiator on the outside without going into the filler neck. Someone modified that radiator to eliminate the original non-pressurized overflow tube by running it into the filler neck below the pressure cap.

[BobT-47P15]

James, it would appear to be what you said from the picture posted.

However, here's another angle showing the overflow tube going in

front of the filler neck. So, nothing modified here.

[Don Coatney]

Bob;

I know what the "man" said, but your radiator sure looks like a honeycomb to me.

[BobT-47P15]

Here is the rad in the 54 Plym I recently had. The overflow comes off

the filler neck on it.