Couple odds and ends from my weekend...

[blueskies]

In addition to the driveline and vibration sorting, I also got a few other bits done on my '50.

I installed a flex fan that I found on e-bay for $8.39. It was an absolute pain in the arse to get it on, my hands look like they've been in a fight with a mean cat. Not only is the fan sharp, the radiator is too, and there is not enough room between the two for my hands. I also spaced it out from the water pump with some washers, as the blades of the fan were very close to the belt. That was like herding ducks, getting the washers in there and lining up all the holes.

Took me about an hour to swap the two fans...

Not sure if it moves much more air than the old four blade fan, but it seems to. It could be a bit bigger too, but I think it will work fine. It is definitely more quite than the old fan.

After the fan and heater motor episode, I installed my visibolts in the rear bumper. I have re-wired the car with the EZ-wiring kit, so I already had a wire in the trunk for a third brake light. I put the bolts in the bumper, zip tied and connected the wires underneath, ran the feed wire up through the gas tank sender hole in the trunk floor, and connected it to the wire in the trunk.

Hit the brakes, and no lights... Damn. Took me a while to find the other end of the wire up under the dash, and it had not been connected to the brake ciruit when I did the rest of the wiring. Got it put in the right place, and it works great.

Tried to take a picture in the dark, but it doesn't show much...

The bolts aren't quite as bright as I thought they would be, but they do get your attention when the brakes are lit.

Once I had all that done, I decided to install the NOS clock that I traded my dash insert for.

First, I made a new wire for the bulb holder to attach to the dash lights. Soldered the wire in, found a spare bulb I had in the glove box, and slipped the clock into the dash.

The clock has a very nice glow at night with the dash lights. I decided at this point to not worry about trying to connect it to power, and it will be very accurate twice a day.

This morning, I gave up on the vibration for a while and re-set my timing. I felt that I had too much advance with the HEI, and was wondering if it may have contributed to the wrist pin failure that I had earlier. And, reading , James Curl's story about having too much advance with the HEI, possibly pounding out his wrist pin bushings, confirmed my worries. Also, the engine temp was creeping up on hills during my trip to Tulsa, and it had never done that before.

I got out my timing light, chalked the lower pulley so I could see the timing marks, and fired it up. I had 10 degrees initial, so I backed it down to 5. It runs better, and seems to run a bit cooler too.

since he's a little quiet over on the BIG RACE thread...

Pete

[Uncle-Pekka]

Hi Pete,

I know the pain of skinned knuckles, I had to twist my fan out&in a couple of times last summer... There is really no room to work btw. the water pump and radiator.

Then we go a bit OT, but looking at the goregous pictures of your dash: Have you painted the wood graining yourself or had it done by somebody? See - I started yet another wood graining thread last week (and find out later, that there has been some good threads on the subject before)

Your dash looks professionally done, is it original or painted during restoration?

And Yes, the new clock looks good as well - The shape fits well with the shape of the radio/speaker cluster and the number font is close to the original of speedo, temp, oil etc.

[blueskies]

... Have you painted the wood graining yourself or had it done by somebody...Your dash looks professionally done, is it original or painted during restoration?

And Yes, the new clock looks good as well - The shape fits well with the shape of the radio/speaker cluster and the number font is close to the original of speedo, temp, oil etc.

The dash is factory original. It is in pretty good shape, but looks better in the pictures than it does in person. The depth in the grain really stands out in the pictures, but not so much to the naked eye. There are some scratches up near the wiper knob, where the original owner used to set his coffee cup... and a few nicks here and there. But all things considered, its nice.

The clock is correct for the car, it replaces the plastic "delete" emblem that was there from the factory.

I've seen a couple different versions of the clock, apparently year to year variations. Not sure if this one is a '49 or '50. The only difference is the winder knob is in a different place, and the clock mechanism is different. The hole in the dash was already there, and the clock is a direct fit.

[Don Coatney]

Pete;

Have you ever contacted Langdon to ask what the actual advance curve is for the HEI distributors he peddles?

[blueskies]

Pete;

Have you ever contacted Langdon to ask what the actual advance curve is for the HEI distributors he peddles?

Nope...

Pete

[martybose]

Pete;

Have you ever contacted Langdon to ask what the actual advance curve is for the HEI distributors he peddles?

I checked the one I have. Centrifugal advance started at 1300 RPM and added 13 degrees by 2800 RPM.

I've got mine running with the weights tiewrapped so they can't move, and 5 degrees initial, with the vaccuum advance (19 degrees) operational. YMMV.

Marty

[Don Coatney]

I checked the one I have. Centrifugal advance started at 1300 RPM and added 13 degrees by 2800 RPM.

I've got mine running with the weights tiewrapped so they can't move, and 5 degrees initial, with the vaccuum advance (19 degrees) operational. YMMV.

Marty

Marty;

You posted on another thread the tiewrap issue. that is why I posted this question. Seems Langdon needs to do a bit more work.

[blueskies]

Found this info in the Popular Mechanics Manual For Plymouth Owners.

This graph illustrates a test done by Auto-Lite on a Plymouth test car. Test was on a level road.

The chart shows that at about 30 mph, the vacuum advance no longer adds to the equation. As the car increases in speed, there is less vacuum and the advance decreases. The mechanical advance is maxed at 11 degrees above 60 mph.

In this test, they reached a maximum of 20 degrees advance, 9 degrees mechanical and 11 degrees vacuum.

I have no idea what the HEI is doing, I'm going to see if I can find the specs on line, or from Langdon.

Pete

[martybose]

Found this info in the Popular Mechanics Manual For Plymouth Owners.

(snip)

The chart shows that at about 30 mph, the vacuum advance no longer adds to the equation. As the car increases in speed, there is less vacuum and the advance decreases.

Pete

Actually it shows that from 25-50 MPH you have maximum vaccuum advance, then from 50 MPH on up it slowly decreases until you no longer have any vaccuum advance at 75 MPH.

Marty

[Normspeed]

Finally, a solid scientific explanation on why my wolf whistle won't work at freeway speeds.

[martybose]

This thread has me curious. When I get my engine back together I'll have to jury rig a vacuum gauge and find out if a hopped up flathead exhibits the same dropping off of vacuum at highway speeds. Mr first thought is that it won't, since it is making more horsepower at a given speed, but who knows?

Marty

[Don Coatney]

Finally, a solid scientific explanation on why my wolf whistle won't work at freeway speeds.

Install a vacuum resovior and you will be able to toot your whistle.

This thread has me curious. When I get my engine back together I'll have to jury rig a vacuum gauge and find out if a hopped up flathead exhibits the same dropping off of vacuum at highway speeds. Mr first thought is that it won't, since it is making more horsepower at a given speed, but who knows?

Marty

One thing I have noticed with my souped up engine is a reduction in

manifold vacuum. I am not sure if this is from my cam or my dual

carburetors or both. At idle I pull somewhere around 16-17 inches.

However per the book (this is from memory as I dont have the book

in front of me) my vacuum advance starts at around two inches and

is full in around 12-13 inches. So even with the reduced manifold

vacuum I still have enough vacuum to operate my vacuum advance.

One other thing in the equasion that has been knocked around before is

"should the vacuum advance be connected to all carburetors or

only one?" I have my vacuum advance connected to one carburetor

only.