OD ongoing saga

[James_Douglas]

When we last left off on the George Asche OD saga…

I had run down the control systems until I could see them in my sleep. Everything checks out better than new.

After months of working then not working OD, rebuilding the control systems twice, paying $500 for new (NOS) solenoids, relays, and switches, which I have not be reimbursed for by George I may add.

After driving the car with the OD locked out (cable out) for a week or so, then pushing the cable back in, the OD started to work in 2nd and 3rd about 90% of the time. After a couple of days that came up to about 98% of the time.

I have driven the car that way for a month, using 2nd (plus 2nd OD) and 3rd (Plus 3rd OD) and the OD has seemed to work well 98% of the time. Now and then on 3rd to 3rd OD on very high acceleration it did not want to go into 3rd OD.

I was hoping that it settled down and I could live with it for a few months until spring and then take it apart. Well, last week I was in a traffic situation here in the city on a hill and I needed to take off in 1st gear. I used 1st twice in a couple of days, and then the OD decided to start no working again.

I drove the car around for a few hours with the cable pulled out. I then pushed it back. The OD started working again.

Now keep in mind that I have not touched the control systems in any way. It is apparent by the behavior that George missed something when he rebuilt this transmission.

I will have to contact him next week and see what he wants to do to make it correct. I promised Sondra we would take the car to Palm Springs in February for her moms 83rd birthday. I will have to chance doing it with the car as is and hope the OD works or it is going to be a long and more expensive drive.

I am fairly certain that the “Blocker Ring Tension” is not correct as stated in the BW manual on pages 7-26 and 7-27. George stated to me that he does not test this as the manual directs. The book clearly states that the pull on a spring scale should be 4 to 6 pounds on new parts and be 1 to 1.5 pound on thoroughly broken in parts. If outside of this range they must be replaced.

Given this, I don’t want to spoil the trip by tearing down the trans over the next few weeks. I would urge anyone paying anyone to make them or rebuild a BW-OD to make sure that this particular test is in fact done or you can end up like me with over $2500 into a trans and OD that just does not work correctly.

Best and happy New Year to all.

James

[Don Coatney]

James;

I was wondering where your OD problems have taken you.

You stated

"I am fairly certain that the “Blocker Ring Tension” is not correct as stated in the BW manual on pages 7-26 and 7-27. George stated to me that he does not test this as the manual directs. The book clearly states that the pull on a spring scale should be 4 to 6 pounds on new parts and be 1 to 1.5 pound on thoroughly broken in parts. If outside of this range they must be replaced."

It sounds to me that the blocker ring tension has quite a span (1-6 pounds tension on a spring scale). As your transmission is used I would think your blocker ring tension would be on the low end (1-1.5 pounds). My question is "is less better or does the blocker ring work better with higher tension?" I would think that with less tension the ring would move easier.

Do you think your problem is too much or too little tension? Or is your blocker ring worn to the point where it binds and does not move freely? Are new replacement parts available?

Not to defend George but it sounds like this area of overdrive transmissions does not have a high failure rate otherwise he would include the book recommended tests in his rebuilds. Let us know the outcome of your conversation with him.

[Lou Earle]

When I got my overdrive from George I had minor trouble with the little oval shaped ball that the cable moves around. George had me remove it and then he told me how to re wire it . I did that and also disconnected the carb to overdrive and use my own switch like George's wiring had set up. It works fine now. However I have noticed that in cold weather- below 35 here- it tends to shift slowly. And on my 54 with original overdrive the same thing occurs in 35 and below weather.

Also running 90 weight causes slow or no shifting to overdrive - I forgot but George I thin recommend 10 or 20 weight oil.

Another thing I found - Be sure and fill the trans and overdrive thru both fill holes.Although there is a passage between them it is not enough to insure that both units are full.

By the way I would never go back to the car berated controlled overdrive I just think the switch on the shifter is superior as does Ritchie and his brother Bobby. They were the ones that recommended I go that route.

Good luck

Lou

[James_Douglas]

Sondra and I took off to get things we need for our open hose in the AM. We got 1/2 way across town and the OD stopped working. It stayed that way for the next 3 hours as we did a combination of city street and highway driving. I tried pulling the cable for a while and then trying it again to no avail.

Don, I would assume that the thing is worn below the 1.5 pound lower limit. Remember that this part works by friction. Too much or to little and it won't work.

I will look at it in the 2nd...

Have a great 2008 all, James

[James_Douglas]

I got under the car today and did a circuit check on everything.

Everything checked out fine, but the main solenoid did not engage although it had power are the connector.

I took off the solenoid cap to see if the main-points are melted out like the first solenoid, supplied with the trans, did after a few months of use. They were VERY black on the contact faces, but not melted.

I cleaned them and then added power and the solenoid pushed the plunger in.

I will test drive it later, but it will probably shift for a while.

CONCLUSIONS:

It appears that the main solenoid is being asked to carry a full current load for longer periods of time than it was designed for.

How can this happen? If the pawl does not engage into the most next slot in the Sun Gear Control Plate then the solenoid will continue to supply current to the main solenoid coil until AND if the pawl drops into the plate as long as you are above the 27 MPH cut in speed.

This prolonged current will eventually cause the weakest point in the solenoid to fail which as we have seen is the point and point arm spring on the solenoid main coil circuit.

Given the various confirmed symptoms on this overdrive, I think the evidence is overwhelming that the "Sun Gear Control Plate" and /or the "Blocker Ring" are not not functioning properly.

When these items fail to work correctly all of the time, then intermittent and erratic shifting can and does take place. If let unresolved problems with these parts can, and do, lead to burnt out solenoids and relays.

Time to write George a letter as I have been dealing with this for over 9 months. I think a replacement transmission and OD are in order.

Best, James