DJK Posted February 21, 2023 Report Share Posted February 21, 2023 20 hours ago, Racerstev said: So, we have a GL5 that’s made for manual brass tranny’s. Have the same weight GL5 that’s for rears and a GL4 that for brass tranny’s… I like the 175w140ns.. but $24 a quart is tough.. steve The way I understand it, GL5 is for rear diffs., GL 1 is for the older transmissions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Racerstev Posted February 21, 2023 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2023 I drained the trans over the weekend, came out kinda dark and smelled like sulfur I'm guessing it's a GL4 or 5. I'm under the impression GL1 doesn't use sulfur. I expect the sta lube. 140 weight has to be sooo stiff when cold, I can see why it would be a bear to shift when the temp drops. On the other hand I expect it wouldn't leak as bad as the thinner Redline would. Reading the shop manual is no use at all, things like changes every 6 months, flushing oil at every change, straight mineral oils, extreme pressure lubs and extra high load extreme pressure lubs. The only thing that relates is the weights, they go from 160 weight down to 80 weight with "cold test" added or 10 weight oil to thin it down in the winter again so it shifts when cold. Since the oil is here, I think I'll try the sta lube for now and see how it does, if I have problems I'll order the Redline. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Racerstev Posted February 22, 2023 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2023 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al-P8 Posted May 3, 2023 Report Share Posted May 3, 2023 Bring this dreaded Rear Main Rope Seal thread back to life. I didn't want to start a new thread when this one has a bunch of info already. Once again I am confused and looking for some thought from this experienced group. I have the engine from my 1939 P8 on the bench. Engine number is P8C 8759. It was leaking oil badly from the timing chain cover and the rear seal. While on the bench I could see it has a rope seal. Ordered a new one. I opened it tonight to start the repair and noticed there were no side seals for the rear main cap. Hummmm. I removed the rear cap and sure enough, there are channels there for the side seals. Looking at the Best Gasket site, (I have Seal 4162) it only shows side seals for the rubber style gasket (Seal 4164). Interesting.... I then pulled the metal seal retainers off and there was no gasket between the retainer and the block or the rear main cap??? (lots of oil between the block and seal retainer on the bottom one though) Also the last person in there just filled the channels in the cap with some form of sealant. You can tell it was leaking around the side seals of the cap and some from the lower rope retainer / rope. Anyway, is it safe to assume the engine, due to it's vintage, should have a rope seal? if so, where do I find a seal set that includes the side seals? I've looked and can't seem to find any. Does this mean I should use the rubber style of seals? When I reassemble it, should I use the gaskets for the metal rope retainers? Just wondering if installing them might make the rope a bit looser and possibly spin? I have also just ordered a reprint shop manual for the car. My current two manuals say literally nothing about the rear main seal other than (essentially) carful changing it. LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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