disc brake conv....$$$

[claybill]

beside the cost of the brake kits...and labor if you have to have them installed...you also have to buy 4 new rims and maybe tires as well...another 600 to a thousand bucks! does any of the kits retain the stock wheels. ?

claybill

[p24-1953]

also are any kits direct bolt on?

do any kits switch to a direct bolt on dual chamber m/c?

are any kits direct bolt on for the rears?

[YukonJack]

I used the Plydo kit. Stock wheels still fit.

[p24-1953]

if you dont mind me asking what was the total cost.

[YukonJack]

I installed my Plydo kit about 5-6 years ago. Honestly don't remember total cost. Got all the parts from the local Auto Zone parts store (calipers, rotors, brake lines etc.) Would come outer cheaper if you have good used parts, but I went with new. Don Coatney used the same kit on his car about a year after I did mine. His record keeping skills are better than mine so he'll probably remember cost. I believe I spent about 500.00 for everything. Stock 15" wheels bolted on with no problem.

[Norm's Coupe]

Bill, I just made the post below in another thread. The guy following me is in your region of the POC. Whatever you end up paying for a conversion, it's money well spent in my book.

Below is a copy of that other post.

Original Brakes vs Front Disc Brake Conversion

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tim Adams View Post

Yancey...if you intend to drive this car often and especially in town..I would very much recommend that you swap over to disc brakes...you should never have to worry about the car lurching or darting to one side or another due to fluid loss, wet shoes etc etc...

there are plenty of suppliers for this kit ...I do recommend our very own Charlie Akers..olddaddy..find him in the member profile section..he can set you up for sure...

Here's my reply to Tims post.

Yancy, Tim is right. Converting to front disc brakes makes a BIG difference in todays traffic. There are several different kits out there, all run about the same price regardless if you get some of the parts locally or order complete kits.

Here is a recent non planned comparison of the disc brakes on my 48 P15 coupe vs original drum brakes on a 49 first series P15 a friend of mine owns. His brakes are fairly new and they are adjusted properly with the infamous adjusting tool. Up until this recent incident he said his original brakes worked great and didn't see a need to switch to disc brakes either.

However, about a week ago he was following me. We were both doing about 35 to 40 MPH down the street. We were both driving our P15's. He was unfamiliar with the route we were taking. I put on my turn signal a little early without slowing down so he'd know I was turning soon. But, I didn't slow down right away so of course no brake lights came on. Because I have disc brakes I could wait until I got a lot closer to the street we were turning onto and that's what I did. I barely had my foot on the pedal to slow down for the turn when I did have to slow down. My brake lights are electric and they come on when you just touch the pedal so they did come on and he did see them. However, when we got out of our cars at my house he said he almost didn't make the turn, because by the time I started to slow down, he had to really stand on his brakes to slow enough for the turn. As a point of interest when I did hit my brakes (just before the turn) he was about 2 or 3 car lengths behind me, much further away from the street we were turning onto. Now he says he's thinking about a conversion too, even though his old original system is working as it should. He can now see how much faster and better disc brakes work. My coupe wasn't even dipping down in the front when I hit the brake and made that turn, so I did not hit the brake hard and fast.

As mentioned this test was not planned, it just happened that way. But......for all the people who say their original brakes are just as good, this is proof of the pudding that they are not as good as disc brakes and never will be.

P.S. I'm still using the old original master cylinder. No other additions to the system except the residual valves for the front and back brake lines.

[teardrop puller]

I used Charlie's kit and stock wheels fit. I only had to change wheels when I went to a new rear end with disk brakes. Charlie's kit was easy to install right on the car. You need only to buy a drill bit and tap, then away you go.

kai

[Don Coatney]

I installed my Plydo kit about 5-6 years ago. Honestly don't remember total cost. Got all the parts from the local Auto Zone parts store (calipers, rotors, brake lines etc.) Would come outer cheaper if you have good used parts, but I went with new. Don Coatney used the same kit on his car about a year after I did mine. His record keeping skills are better than mine so he'll probably remember cost. I believe I spent about 500.00 for everything. Stock 15" wheels bolted on with no problem.

Jack;

I can post pictures of all the stuff but like you I dont recall the cost. Actually I did not write it all down for fear my wife would see it:D Somewhere around five hundred sounds about right. I bought new chrome wheels because I wanted to. Stock wheels would work on my car too.

[Olddaddy]

My kit should work with most original wheels. It depends on the wheels, some are slightly different in the center, but they should work. Most people I sell to use later model wheels, but originals should work.

You can run front discs on a good original master cylinder, but residual valves are a good idea. A better idea is to install an ECI or MP brakes adapter and run a late model dual resevoir. Stopping is as important, maybe moreso, than going.

I am installing a Scarbird rear disc setup on a late model 8 3/4 rear end in my wagon. It's a simple kit, affordable and looks easy to install. I would not personally spend the time and money to install discs on an original rear end, easier to swap out to a Ford with disc, or modify an 8 3/4.

I am not aware of any kit that is a direct bolt-on without some modification. I think mine is pretty simple, drill out three holes in the spindle, tap them to 5/8 fine thread, drill out four holes, two each in the steering arms and you're done. I can do it for you if you send me your parts, or you can do it on your car if you aren't rebuilding the king pins. Also, my kit uses a Volare/Aspen rotor which has the same original bolt pattern as your car or truck.

I've bought the necessary parts to convert to discs locally for under $200 by carefully shopping the sales at parts houses. My kits are $225 which includes shipping to lower 48 addresses. I charge $20 each to do the steering arms and spindles, plus return shipping.

With Christmas coming soon this would be a great time to buy a disc brake kit for your car or truck. You deserve it, and I could use the money.

[YukonJack]

Sounds like your kit is about the same as the Plydo kit and about the same cost. I've also noticed you have a front shock mount kit that looks like the Plydo kit, are you cheaper on the shock mount kit?

[BeBop138]

I used the Scarebird kit for my 52 Windsor and it`s a direct bolt on---used 95-96 crown vic rotors and the existing front hub dropped right in place like it was stock.Used banjo style brake hoses and 80`s Gm full size calipiers--I tried the stock rims and they fit with a little grinding on the area where the rims are rivited together---I would re-check that to make sure. I used the same rims that the squad cars use and added a 5/16 shim to make everything clear. I switched to 80`s Gm 1/2 ton pick-up master and porp valve and relocated it behind my old one and used a longer rod--I went with non-power and it stops fine--I did use the residual valves---I went with Ford 9 inch for the rear and drum brakes. I am sure if you gave Mark a call at Scarebird he can fill you in on the parts you will need. All the parts were bought over the counter at the local Auto store and the rest came from the boneyard--cost under $500 bucks. Good Luck!!

[Olddaddy]

There are two main differences between my kit and the Plydo kit. My kit has the inner bearing riding on the spindle, not on the spacer. And my caliper brackets are laser cut, not flame cut. I don't keep track of their pricing, but I believe their kit cost more than mine, and shipping is extra. My shock arms are $60 including shipping to lower 48 addresses.

[YukonJack]

I used the Scarebird kit for my 52 Windsor and it`s a direct bolt on---used 95-96 crown vic rotors and the existing front hub dropped right in place like it was stock.Used banjo style brake hoses and 80`s Gm full size calipiers--I tried the stock rims and they fit with a little grinding on the area where the rims are rivited together---I would re-check that to make sure. I used the same rims that the squad cars use and added a 5/16 shim to make everything clear. I switched to 80`s Gm 1/2 ton pick-up master and porp valve and relocated it behind my old one and used a longer rod--I went with non-power and it stops fine--I did use the residual valves---I went with Ford 9 inch for the rear and drum brakes. I am sure if you gave Mark a call at Scarebird he can fill you in on the parts you will need. All the parts were bought over the counter at the local Auto store and the rest came from the boneyard--cost under $500 bucks. Good Luck!!

What type of longer rod did you use? Was it something you bought or something you made?

[BeBop138]

It was something I made--made it long enough to go thru the existing master to the new one and put some threads on it for adjusting....

[BeBop138]

Not to good at getting pics on the forum---if you want pics send me your e-mail

[Norm's Coupe]

There are two main differences between my kit and the Plydo kit. My kit has the inner bearing riding on the spindle, not on the spacer. And my caliper brackets are laser cut, not flame cut. I don't keep track of their pricing, but I believe their kit cost more than mine, and shipping is extra. My shock arms are $60 including shipping to lower 48 addresses.

I also checked with Charlie before buying my brake kit from ECI. The primary reason I did not go with Charlie is simply because he didn't have his refined to where he wanted it yet. So......I went looking elsewhere because I was ready to do it then. I did call and try to order Charlie's first (or contacted him via email, forgot which).

That said, my kit from ECI did cost a little more than Charlie's would have (about $100 or so). However, if Charlie's brackets are laser cut that's better than the ECI bracket that is flame cut. With a flame cut the cut is uneven. Because of that I did have a problem with them hitting the hub at first. Had to grind them down smooth so the high points would not hit the hub when the wheel turns. Have never seen Charlie's brackets but with a laser cut they should be nice and smooth.

[claybill]

well today i ordered the kit from charlie.

i am sure all will be ok. i just hope the original wheels fit!!! he uses a volare rotor....

bill

[Norm's Coupe]

Bill, I don't think the rotors are the problem with wheels fitting. It's the calipers. The ECI kit uses the larger GM calipers. I could take the calipers off my 95 Lumina van or the ones on my sons GMC van and they are the same. Also the same calipers fit the 78 - 80 Camero and Firebird. My ECI rotors were exacty the same diameter and bolt pattern that my old brake drums were.

[james curl]

I used Charlies kit and the only thing that you need to do to make the wheels fit is grind a bump off of the calipers. Charlie tells you in his instructions you will have to do it. I used my stock wheels. I had to pull the internal residule valve out of my original mastercylinder because the front wheels had too much drag on them with the 2 pound residule valve in the line and the 10 pound in the rear line.

[Norm's Coupe]

I used Charlies kit and the only thing that you need to do to make the wheels fit is grind a bump off of the calipers. Charlie tells you in his instructions you will have to do it. I used my stock wheels. I had to pull the internal residule valve out of my original mastercylinder because the front wheels had too much drag on them with the 2 pound residule valve in the line and the 10 pound in the rear line.

I've heard a few people complain recently about too much drag on the front wheels after installing disc brakes, even with the ECI kit. They to took the internal residual valve out of their master cylinder. However, I've had my brakes on for a little over 2 years now and I never had that problem. That said, even new cars have a slight amount of drag on the disc brakes. My coupes front wheels don't have any more drag than my Lumina van does. The internal master cylinder residual is still in it and I'm also using the 2 Lb. and 10 LB. external residual valves. I don't remember anyone (regardless of whose kit used) mentioning removing the internal residual valve since the forum first began years ago.

[Don Coatney]

I've had my brakes on for a little over 2 years now

Norm;

Sure does not seem like 2 years ago that you did your brake upgrade. You must be getting close to your first brake pad replacement. I know that with your SAE-O-DATA driving habits you have probably used your brakes more than I have.

SAE-O-DATA = Stops At End Of Driveway And Turns Around

[rearview]

Norm... yours might have a bad residual valve in the master.... good for you. My old master andthe new one both held significant pressure on the front brakes. Popped it out and put valves in the lines... all is good.

[Norm's Coupe]

Bob, I doubt my internal residual valve was bad. When I first bought the car I had to rebuild the brakes. When I got to the master cylinder, I couldn't budge the mounting bolts to get the thing off. Took the car into the shop and they rebuilt it. The master cylinder was working fine before the disc brake swap too.

There are at least a couple more people on the forum who did the swap and did not do anything with their old master cylinder. Can't remember exactly who, but one was Robert, RJD or Roger who also had been running the ECI kit for at least a year or two before I bought mine. He chimed in when I mentioned I was going that route. He doesn't make many post on the forum. Think he lived out north east someplace. At the time some others had also used the PlyDo Kits and didn't make any modifications to the master cylinder. There were several post regarding this. Should be in the archives of the "Old Forum" format. They can be downloaded too, or I believe GTK sells them on CD's.

Don Coatney. It's been about that long. Time flies when your having fun. Also the older we get the faster time flies. :D

[PatS....]

Norm;

Sure does not seem like 2 years ago that you did your brake upgrade. You must be getting close to your first brake pad replacement. I know that with your SAE-O-DATA driving habits you have probably used your brakes more than I have.

SAE-O-DATA = Stops At End Of Driveway And Turns Around

Norm, next time you go for a drive, you GOTTA take your camera for a shot off the driveway!!!

[Norm's Coupe]

Norm, next time you go for a drive, you GOTTA take your camera for a shot off the driveway!!!

Pat, when Bob Westphal gets back home from his trip and gets back on the forum, he can verify that the coupe does leave the driveway. We took it to eat lunch the day he was here. Also met Tony C and his wife Karen for lunch about 3 years ago in the coupe.

Don will have to take his own pictures. I know I drive it, and where and when and that's all that's important to me. Don't carry a camera with me for the same reasons I don't take detailed step by step pictures of any work I do on the car. Taking pictures slows you down and it's just something else to carry around with you. I like to travel light. I could probably beat Don or Pete in a race, even with their hopped up engines. While they are taking the time to take pictures of the race in progress, I'd use that time to get ahead and cross the finish line FIRST!!