Brakes Rear and Bleeding

[Guest smac1221]

Ok, What is the secret to adjusting the rears. I have what the book calls Chrysler Two Cylinder Brakes on the rear.

Yesterday, I deceided to bleed the brakes. I could not get any pressure build up, so I pulled the rears. One came off fine, the other required the puller. The shoes were in contact with the drum. I understand there is a major and minor adjustment. It just doesn't appear that I can get the same clearance on both wheels.

What advice can you all give for the proper steps for adjustment?

I took apart the cylinder on one of the rears to check out their condition. They appeared ok. I spent tonight taking off the master cylinder and honing it out. Put it back together and still can't get pressure.

Should I replace all the rubbers in all the cylinders as well as Master?

Thanks,

smac1221

[grey beard]

Mr. Smac,

We're talking about sixty year old stuff here. I personally have never had much luck rebuilding wheel or master cylinders on these vehicles. Newer stuff is no problem rebuilding, but unless you have a nmachine shop rebore the cylinder and sleeve it, just honing them out usually is a waste of time.

Sounds to me like if you have no pressure at your bleeders, the master cylinder may be the culprit. Have you tried bleeding the master cylinder, itself, before you move to the rear bleeders? If you cannot get pressure at your bleeders, I suggest you consider replacing that master cylinder. What with only one hydrauiic circuit, it's a pretty important component from a safdety standpoint.

As for rear wheel brake adjusting, you may wish to read the featured article on this sjuject in the tech tips section of this web site. It is for cars, but you will get the idea. Since I do not have the special brake tool, K back everything off and then adjust the primary anchor bolts till the shsoes just touch, then adjust the minor eccentrics. Then I repeat this process again till I am satisfied the shsoes just almost touch at each end. Usually you are then good to go. JMHO

Good luck

[Guest smac1221]

I found the adjustment article and will try to follow those guidlines, thanks,

In checking with AutoZone today, they indicated that they do not have a source for the Master Cylinder, just the rebuild kits. Can anyone provide another source with Part numbers?

While the Master was off last night, it did not appear to have any pitting on the inside. No I did not bleed the master, only thought that any entrapped air would be expelled upon bleeding the nipple at the wheel cylinders. What is the process for bleeding a Master?

Thanks,

smac1221

[Merle Coggins]

Napa has master cylinders. That's where I got mine, but I don't have the P/N handy.

You could bleed the M/C by cracking the line loose like a bleed screw. Also, be sure that the hole is open between the reservoir and the M/C bore. If it's plugged you'll get no fluid down to where it can do the work.

Merle

[CKHughes]

I just recently installed the new master cylinder from Roberts ($115):

http://www.robertsmotorparts.com/truck_parts.asp?Action=search&t=&Search=&c=Trucks+%2D+Brake+Parts&page=2

Part no T33C.

The rear wheel clylinders (4) I bought from Advance Auto for around $30 a piece. The front dual bore single wheel cylinders I also got from Roberts. The brakes work fine now!

Regards,

Chris Hughes

Atlanta member

[Guest smac1221]

I got my 4 rear cylinders today from Roberts. I was short one push rod so I called and they said they would send one out.

Here is my question. While putting together the second rear, I decided just to grab one of the old push rods-that thing that comes out of the cylinder and pushes against the shoe. The new ones measures 1 3/8, the old ones measure 1 3/4.

What is the correct length? Does it matter as long as they are all the same? I would think that the shorter ones would require more adjusting of the shoes.

Chris, what did you get with your cylinders?

Thanks,

smac1221