I need advice

[David Mac]

On the P15 coupe trunk. How do you remove both the lock and the handle from the trunk latch housing? I see a small pin on the lock but it only goes in so far, not far enough to remove the cylinder.

On the back of the handle there is a metal cap like device that appears to be crimped on.

Any advice on how to remove these from the housing?

Thanks,

David Mac

[rearview]

I just went through this a couple weeks ago. I filed through the crimped section to release it. When I installed, I merely clocked it to a different position and re-crimped (hammer and punch)

To remove cylinder, go here and read 3rd post.

http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=4696&highlight=lock+cylinder

[BobT-47P15]

Do you have a key to your lock??? I think you have to turn the key to allow the pin to work as it should. Mike Maker. occasionally of this forum is also a lock expert......maybe he will chime in.

[David Mac]

Thanks Rearview: I suspected I would have to do something like that to get the handle off and be able to put it back on. The previous posts were helpful also

Thanks BobT: No I don't have the key to the lock and if Mikemaker is the lock expert and is out there. My question is can a key be made for a lock that can't be removed. I can't get my door locks out, the set screws are rounded out

[mikemaker]

The trunk lock is most probably keyed different from the doors and the ignition. To get the cylinder out, you must pick the lock if you do not have a key. Any locksmith should be able to do this for you in about 1 minute. Once the cylinder is turned, the retainer pin can be depressed with a small screwdriver and it will slide out. If you can't find someone to do it, you could mail me the whole trunk latch and I will rekey it for you. It's pretty simple stuff. Don't try to force the cylinder out, or file the pin as you will ruin the cylinder.

[Norm's Coupe]

I did what Mike said to get a key made for my trunk. I removed the whole lock assembly and took it to a locksmith. They then made a key for me. If you can't get the whole assembly off because the screws are rounded, drill them out. They're just stainless screws and you should be able to replace those without too much problem. Probably find those at your local hardware stores.

[David Mac]

Thanks MikeMaker & Norms coupe: I will take the whole trunk assembly to a locksmith.

My question about the door locks is can a key be made with the cylinder still in the door? If so, I can have the ignition re-keyed to match the doors.

I can't remove the Cly because the allen screw holding the lock in is frozen and rounded out. I tried drilling it out but it must be hardened steel screw because it wouldn't drill out.

Thanks,

David Mac

[Tom Skinner]

Dear DavidMacK,

MkeMaker was right on all counts on the trunk lock, picking the lock, keying it, inserting new key and turning the cylinder to push release pin, not forcing the pin etc.

Now for the door Locks. Either remove your ignition switch and build a key from it, or get some special hardened drill bits and remove a door cylinder to get a new key made to fit them. It will/should fit your doors as well.

Remember no forcing anything. Slow and steady wins the race.

In this case a couple of breaks/as in break frre oil and rests, and other cases, as in beer may be in order as well.

Tom

[Norm's Coupe]

David,

Before going through all that trouble getting the door locks out, try this.

If all your locks and ignition switch are original, they probably are already keyed for the same key. The problem may be one of two things with your door locks. Either your key is worn and it's not making contact with the tumblers inside, or the lock is just frozen with rust and dirt.

So, take you ignition switch only to the lock smith and have him make new keys for it. Also use a good penetrating oil, or 3 in 1 oil in the door locks and let them soak for a day or so in the door. Then when you get the new ignition key made, try it on the doors. Tell the locksmith not to change the tumblers in the ignition switch, just make a key to fit the original tumbler settings.

When I bought my coupe, you had to jiggle the ignition switch to turn it, and it would only turn one way. Only one of the door locks would work by jiggling the key with the old key. I could not get the other side to turn at all, even after using penetrating oil in it. I didn't take any of my locks out, or ignition switch. All I did was take the locksmith the original worn key. He then cut a new one from it. Got home, the ignition worked like a charm both ways, AND, both door locks worked without jiggling the key.

Bottom line is. The switch and locks may be good, your key may just be worn out. Keys will wear out after a lot of use. Each time you stick it in the lock it wears a little off the key ridges.

[mikemaker]

It's no problem for any locksmith worth his salt to "Impression" a key from the door cylinder while still in the vehicle. Back when I was working at the locksmith shop, I would charge $15.00 plus the price of a blank key to impression a lock, so that's about what a locksmith should charge you if you are able to take either the lock or the car to him. Should take him 5 minutes tops. Once you have a working key for the doors, then it is simple to pull out the ignition cylinder and re pin it to match the key that you had made for the door. Personally, I like to rekey the ignition, doors and trunk alike thus eliminating 1 key from my keyring. I know that originally, the trunk was keyed different from the ignition, but who really cares. It works better for me.

[mikemaker]

Also, Norm has a good point about the key and/or cylinder may be worn. Or a stuck pin, or spring in the cyl.

[1just4don]

Norm was right IF the pins were real rusty etc. Penetrating oil IS necessary. For 95% of the time,,,tho the 'oil' will make it worse than better IF you travel gravel roads,,,live in the country where dust is king. I used ONLY the dry graphite in locks to start with,,,in the little handy puff tubes that last forever. It is DRY and doesnt collect more grit.

I had bad door hinges once on a more modern car,,,mechanic it was at, said oiling the hinges was the WORST thing I could do. He took solvent and cleaned everything thouroughly,,,then applied dry silicone instead,,,worked like a charm for about 10 times longer than oil ever did,,,then just took another poof of dry silicone!! When in doubt,,,go dry!!! IF dry graphite doesnt work to smooth up those locks,,try da dry silicone,its wet long enough to help,,,,sometimes!!

Works for me!!

[David Mac]

Thanks again to all for the terrific advise. I will try the new key and oil and if not have them keyed on the car. At least I know somewhere down the road I will be able to lock the car.

Thanks again,

David Mac

[BobT-47P15]

I guess some or most of our local locksmiths must not be so hot.....I took my trunk lock to some of them a while back to get a new key made. None of them could seem to impression it.....they used to use a little gun-like tool to do that process, and yes, they could do door locks still in place on the car back when. Now, they say, that tool is illegal and no one here has it any more. The one guy that said he could make a key finally produced one that barely works and he also messed up the lock shaft..... So, all locksmiths are not created equal nowadays. Next time, I'll probably just send the item to Mike.

[Norm's Coupe]

BobT,

You are correct. You have to find an old time locksmith to get the service I got. The locksmith I used even had key blanks that said DCPD on them. Took him about 20 or 30 minutes to find them, but he did come up with a couple.

[BobT-47P15]

Oh, speaking of key blanks for the old cars......I have purchased a couple sets of DPCD keys, one aluminum and one brass (i guess) on ebay. They are still un-cut. My current key, which works the ignition OK, is a pentastar style from probably the 60s or 70s. I have seen some of those on key racks at lock shops, but not too many of the original style keys. So, you should be able to use that blank, if necessary. Just found this source for that key.....

On this website......http://www.mysecuritypro.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=443

[Norm's Coupe]

Bob,

I also bought a pair of the aluminum key blanks off ebay several years ago. Those are still uncut, keep them just in case. The ones I got at the locksmith were brass. I like those better, those aluminum ones look kinda thin and may break easily. But.........in a pinch they'll work, that's why I bought them.