loctite 2422 product for manifold studs ??

[3046moparcoupe]

Almost ready to mount the intake and exhaust manifolds back on the flathead six of the 46 Plymouth.

 

When I pulled the manifolds, some of the shorter studs came out of the block, while others stayed in place as the nut was removed....my (2) long studs that go through the exhaust manifold center were a bit more of a problem, as both snapped on me - however I was able to get the studs out at that point with only minimal thread damage to the outside two threads on one of the two studs...

 

After cleaning up the old somewhat rusty threads with a wire type bottle brush, they look nice and clean now.

 

I am now able to thread the studs into the side of the block - by hand - until they seat against the hole...and my two longer studs are probably the easiest to thread in by hand, but really basically they all feel relatively close to the same, in tightness - not a lot of difference.

 

Thinking along the lines of getting a good seal into the water jacket area, and also to try and prevent them from loosening up ..with these engines basically running a non pressurized coolant system - I can see where leakage is not as big a fight as it would be on a modern engine...and again I may be wrong in my thinking (as this is my first time around a flathead motor ),..but I'm thinking that getting the studs anchored well is gonna be more the issue than difficulties associated with coolant leakage - course that said - nothing will ruin your day faster than a coolant leak.. 

 

I have found the following....

 

1: Actually Plymouthy Adams found this stuff for me on ebay, a month or so ago.....it's a high temp, (690 degrees) slightly thicker than normal, Teflon type tape,...that should seal really well against leaks, but offers no thread-locking capabilities.... 

 

2: Loctite has a product called Loctite 2422, the tech told me it's good in regards to contact with antifreeze, it has the highest heat rating of any of the Loctite products, (650 degrees)...and it's the medium rated blue colored Loctite that can still be dis-assembled with hand tools.

 

Would appreciate any feedback from the forum members regarding the above...

 

I don't know how hot the threaded area of the block at the manifold studs gets,...with the coolant from the water jacket being right there touching the end of the studs (that should help greatly), but still this has got to be close to the hottest place on this engine block,....which is a normal/stock 217 flathead 6 cylinder.

 

Anyone out there with any experience regarding how hot these manifold studs might get ? 

 

Not trying to make this harder than it has to be - although I can be pretty good at doing just that very thing from time to time

 

I would just snug them up on occasion, as I've read some folks state they do - but 99% that's gonna just retighten the nut as the stud continues to loosens.

 

Bolts rather than studs would eliminate some of this, as you would be turning the entire bolt when you re-tightened in the future, however I'm hoping to use the tight fit studs I had a machinest make..as a normal 3/8-16 class-2 thread is pretty loose on the first 3 rows of threads on one of my long studs.

 

Trying to exercise the old "ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure" thang here...

 

Any and all reply's are welcome, thank you all in advance.

 

Steve

[Don Coatney]

I found replacement studs at my local Ace Hardware store. No need to have them made. The studs I found are all grade 8. I used standard Teflon tape on the threads going into the block and did not use any thread locker. I double nutted the fine thread end and snugged all the course end of the studs into the block. The next guy who disassembles your engine will not be happy if you use any thread locker and a stud breaks off.

 

[deathbound]

I think you're overthinking this....clean all thread surfaces thoroughly, use hi-temp thread sealant, & stud installation/extractor (see link), which most auto parts stores have on loan and you should be good. I've never had a stud break from thread locking products (though I'm sure it's happened), but usually from rust.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-Piece-Stud-Extractor-Installer-Socket-Set-in-Blow-Moulded-Case-1580ERA-/301913694737?hash=item464b756211:g:nNsAAOSwQjNW-xJv

[3046moparcoupe]

Thank you Don and DB...I appreciate you guys taking the time..

 

DB, when you say hi-temp thread sealant, something like a permatex ultra copper,...??

 

Up to writing the post above, I had wrapped the threads in the high temp Teflon tape I described, then I took a pair of channel locks, grabbed the smooth center area of the stud, and torque it into the block a bit...(made me feel pretty clueless when I read your reply about using a stud extractor to install with - why heck yea !!).  I've only got (2) in my tool box,...but never thought the other day of something as common sense as using the stud tool to install with.....nope I go grab a pair of pliers,...which won't grip it nearly as even and firm and also chews on the stud a bit...

 

thank you...

 

Steve

[Oberstar]

On ‎5‎/‎6‎/‎2016 at 2:56 PM, Don Coatney said:

I found replacement studs at my local Ace Hardware store. No need to have them made. The studs I found are all grade 8. I used standard Teflon tape on the threads going into the block and did not use any thread locker. I double nutted the fine thread end and snugged all the course end of the studs into the block. The next guy who disassembles your engine will not be happy if you use any thread locker and a stud breaks off.

 

Don, when you replaced the long studs with those 3/8th bolts, what length did you go with?  I have some that, when you take the bolt head into account for taking up the same space as a nut, they are the same length as original.  The other long stud is fine- wondering if I should use the 'correct' stud, or place this bolt in its place...

[Don Coatney]

I installed the manifold about 15 years ago and I do not recall the length of the bolts. But they have held up well as I have not had to remove the manifold. I should mention that this is a Desoto 25 inch engine and the manifold may be different than a short 23 inch manifold.