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Rear Brake Drum Removal Problem


Go to solution Solved by jeffr777,

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Posted

I think to decide which way to go is case by case. Personally, after three afternoons with sledge hammers, impacts wrenches, including the semi wheel biggie, 3 foot pipes and every other tool combo-technique I could dream up I finally decided that in the long wrong it was worth it to me to swap in a Ford 8.8. Not that it is any easier. I figured it was going to be a hassle either way, but since I had to replace the MC, break lines and do a front disc conversion, the rear end swap wasn't really out of scope. Now, if all I was going to do was replace the brake pads, might be a different story.

Posted (edited)

I've done it a couple ways and they all worked fine. 1) three leg puller with heat. 2) cut the rivets and leave the hub in place (did this on my first 49 and had no issues driving with the drum not riveted to the hub) 3) I've done three 8.8 swaps; this is a great rear end for these cars. Now it's a given, whenever it start on one of these cars the first place I hit is the Ford explorer section of the boneyard.

Edited by falconvan
  • 3 weeks later...
  • Solution
Posted

Hello all and thanks for the great advice.  I purchased a different 3 lug puller, got a bigger sledge and yesterday (5/18) I beat that thing "like it owed me money" (from an earlier response)!!  It finally gave in and came off and what was under the drum wasn't very pretty, but can be easily be replaced.  The wheel cylinder failed, the return springs were broken and there was no material left on the brake shoes...none.  I've ordered the wheel cylinder, shoes and return springs and will inspect and replace the components of the other side as well.  The brake lines are in very good condition and must have been replaced in the not-too-distant past. 

 

Thanks again for all the great advice and I should be up and running in a couple days!

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