Plydo gastank location

[John Mulders]

Seems I do a lot of things at the moment (mostly gathering info!).

Help from this forum is very valuable to me!

Had a couple of hours to spare today so looked at the gastank installation (worked on this before but wasn't sure how to mount it).

I have put the fillerneck and the grommet on the car as advised and then had a long look where it ends and how that would best meet with the gastank filler pipe.

Think I have the best location but it seems to interfere with the support for the rear fender. I could (re)move that one.

In the picture the tank would need to rise 1.5 inch to connect to the trunk floor.

I can't move the tank further to the axle and further to the rear interferes with the shakle of the spring.

Once I know the location I can start mounting the tank, cut the hole for the fuel sender etc.

Norm, I think you have a Plydo tank. Any pics where you have the hose located?

Others are welcome to advise of course!

Thanks

John

[Norm's Coupe]

John,

I didn't take any pictures of the tank installation.

First of all, forget about trying to line up the tank with the filler hose from the fender. You need to first mount the tank, then line the hose with the tank.

Sounds like your primary problem is with the old tank mounting brackets that are welded to the floor of the car. You have to remove those before mounting the Ply Do tank.

I removed the floor mounted brackets then cut them in half. Then measured the distance of the tank from front to rear. Then remounted the brackets onto the car so the tank then fit flush up against the floor of the trunk. The best way to locate the position of the tank and brackets is to hold the tank up against the floor with a floor jack. Move the tank so the filler hole lines up just in front of the rear spring perch. (so you filler tube goes between the spring and frame toward the rear.) Actually the rear of the tank should line up just behind the strap bolt holes in the rear. Once you have the tank in position, mark the underside of the trunk around the tank with a carpenters crayon. Just trace the outline of the tank. Then lower the tank and remount the two halves of the mounting bracket to the floor, using the the line you made with the crayon as a guide for the outside of the tank. You'll probably have about 1 to 2" space between the front half and rear half of the mounting bracket when finished. You can bolt the bracket in first to make sure you have it in the right spot. Then you should be able to use the same holes for the strap bolts as the old one was. Now, mount the filler pipe in the fender and attach the hose so it lines up with the tank inlet.

CAUTION: When you are finding the right position for the tank, make sure you will clear the pumpkin of the rearend, because this tank is bigger than the old one. That's why it won't fit inside the brackets unless you remove them and cut them. You will probably have 1" or less between it and the tank when done. So if you go too far back you'll hit the tank with the pumpkin when you set the car down off the jack.

[Norm's Coupe]

As an addition to the last post. I really didn't have a problem with the fender bracket. I had the fender off anyway and was replacing it. When I put the new fender on I had to make a brace, then attach it. So, that could be why it didn't interfere with the tank installation. If you can't get the tank positioned so the brace doesn't interfere, just move the brace a little.

[John Mulders]

Thanks Norm,

I already removed the old tank mounting brackets the last time.

The way you describe the way the hose will go is what I have in mind.

Need to keep some space from the rear axle and of course the exhaust (but the plydo tank is smaller so that won't be a problem).

Will take another look and start marking things.

Need to get one mounting bracket , should not be a big deal.

Thanks again. Will make pictures while I do the work.

John

[Norm's Coupe]

John,

I would put a piece of plywood on the floor jack before putting the tank on it. That way you won't accidentally damage the tank. It will also help keep the tank a little more balanced while jacking it up and down.

[55 Fargo]

John, Tanks Inc, out of Minnesota manufacture both a stainless steel and a steel tank for your car, the stainless tank is $350 and the steel is either $215 or $ 250. They are meant for our cars, so no fuel sender mods, the straps you have now should also work with the tank with possibly no mods.You can contact them at, wwwtanksinc.com

[Norm's Coupe]

Fred,

You are right about Tanks Inc. If I had known about Tanks Inc when I was looking for a tank, I would have gone that way too. Actually, their tanks are the same price as the poly tank from Ply Do, plus Tanks Inc. has the filler tubes and hoses to go along with the tanks.

However, my tank is in the car now, so I'll stay with it until something happens to it. Also, John already has the Poly tank from Ply Do too. Cost him a lot more in shipping too because of his location. Unless he wants to try and sell his poly tank and order one from Tanks Inc. he's now stuck with it like I am.

For anyone else who needs a tank though, they should probably go with Tanks Inc.

[John Mulders]

Thanks Rockwood,

But I already have the plydo tank, so like Norm I have to live with it.

Not a big issue, just a challenge I guess.

John