Heater Switch

[old rat 49]

I have one wire with terminal screw at top of first resistor on the heater switch coming from power. No wire or terminal to the heater ? HELP !!!!

[Don Coatney]

Suggest you do a forum search for a wiring diagram and add a wire to your heater motor per the diagram.

[old rat 49]

Don, I tried a search but short of reading every individual post I could not find anything. Ground is at the switch housing and one wire comes to that is powered and has a screw hook up point but I'll be darned if I can figure out where the hook up point is from switch to motor. I would think it would be at the end of the last resistor and the switch internals woul pick what voltage to put out but there is no lug/screw terminal and no obvious broken solder connection. As a point of interest I am using a 12V neg ground heater system out of a Suzuki Samari if I remember correctly and it puts out plenty of heat at the reduced voltage. The nice thing about it is it is an all plastic housing so wiring is not a problem. Still need to come up with some ducting to defrosters.

[Don Coatney]

Don, I tried a search but short of reading every individual post I could not find anything. Ground is at the switch housing and one wire comes to that is powered and has a screw hook up point but I'll be darned if I can figure out where the hook up point is from switch to motor. I would think it would be at the end of the last resistor and the switch internals woul pick what voltage to put out but there is no lug/screw terminal and no obvious broken solder connection. As a point of interest I am using a 12V neg ground heater system out of a Suzuki Samari if I remember correctly and it puts out plenty of heat at the reduced voltage. The nice thing about it is it is an all plastic housing so wiring is not a problem. Still need to come up with some ducting to defrosters.

it puts out plenty of heat at the reduced voltage

Not sure how you know this if you can not make the blower run?

If I had this problem I would read every individual post to find my answer. But I dont have this problem. If I had this problem I would have mentioned in my first posting the Samari thing. I also would have used a test light or meter to find what gets power when the switch is closed, where the power goes, and where it stops. By doing so I most likely would have answered my question before posting it. But that is just me. Good luck and I hope you find your problem.

[old rat 49]

The Samuri thing is totally irrelevent. Wired direct it works great. Just trying to figure out the connection point from factory P15 fan switch to motor as no connection is obvious on the switch, and yes I do do try to search for answers first before asking for help and if my first post wasn't clear enough for some people I'm sorry.

[old rat 49]

Did find a very coroded connection point with a missing screw at end of second resisistor and now have a functioning 3 speed switch. Defrost cable needs to be lengthened a bit to operate the heat/defrost control and have to come up with a temp control cable and a hose for defrosters. Possible old vacuum cleaner type hose or VW heater duct. The 12 volt Jap heater puts out quite bit of air above idle speed when generator output goes up.

Edited February 20, 2012 by old rat 49

[Robert Horne]

I used some shop vac hose for my defrost tubes. I seen at the auto parts store today, they still sell flexable exhaust hose, that may work for you on the defrost tubing.

[old rat 49]

That's my project for today as soon as I figure out how to get instrument cluster and its chrome off the dash.

[BobT-47P15]

A lot of standing on your head, getting behind the dash should do it.