Oberstar Posted August 14, 2011 Report Posted August 14, 2011 (edited) I received my rebuild kit for my E9A1, but one of the only issues currently with the carb is the counter plunger that is opposite of the accelerator pump (looks almost just like the pump). The tiny circular spring is broken, and the original leather is rough. I replaced the pump, but I still have a flat spot on acceleration, and if I don't feather the gas, she'll cough, and then take off. There are no vacuum leaks that I can see or feel. When I operate the accelerator by hand, I get a good stream of fuel each time. What is the purpose of that plunger opposite of the pump? http://www.carbkitsource.com/carbs/images/kits/fullsize/ck442.jpg Edited August 14, 2011 by Oberstar Quote
Niel Hoback Posted August 14, 2011 Report Posted August 14, 2011 It functions as a dashpot to slow the throttle plate closing when you have a fluid drive. Quote
Tom Skinner Posted August 14, 2011 Report Posted August 14, 2011 Oberstar, I think you are reffering to the Dash Pot. It regulates the Idle after you stop at a light etc. There is a small spring below it - if it is the one your talking about being broken, any real good hardware store with a good selection of springs will have one to sell to you. I believe your talking about a Ball and Ball Carter Single Draft Carburator. In order to determine what your working on please indicate the year/vehicle and type of Transmission on your vehicle (eg. Fluid Drive). Otherwise I don't think we can help you with out some more information. Tom Quote
Oberstar Posted August 15, 2011 Author Report Posted August 15, 2011 Hooh boy:D It is a Chrysler Spitfire 251 that sits in a 41 Dodge. I'm attempting to just not throw money at the situation, but troubleshoot the issue. I thought it was the pump, but it squirts each time. I didn't set any of the height adjustments inside, and truth be told, a float adjustment may need to happen, but she runs good for now, just the initial take off from a stop. Quote
Niel Hoback Posted August 15, 2011 Report Posted August 15, 2011 Check your timing and plug gap. Maybe run about 4 or 5 degrees ahead. I found .035 non-resistor plug gap works better with resistor wires. Quote
Oberstar Posted August 15, 2011 Author Report Posted August 15, 2011 Well Niel, I just took her out for a drive and this is what I observed- Driving on flat ground for about 20mins at 40mph. Temp at 140 and steady, fuel gauge at 1/4. If I attempt to go up a slight incline, she acts like she starves of fuel and will quit. If I pull over, she starts right up and lets me get underway for another 1/4mi. She then quits again a couple of more times. Now, I put 5 gallons of fuel (just in case), gauge reads 1/2 now, turn around to head home, and the ground is level. I resume all the way back (10miles) to the house with no issues whatsoever:confused:. The only thing I can think of is that although the fuel tank was sandblasted, perhaps the pick up tube only reaches down to 3/4ths of the tank. The tank registers 1/4, but the pick up tube can't reach it. The other item is perhaps when she gets hot going uphill, the coil is acting up? These plugs wires, cap, and rotor are probably at least 20 years old BTW... Quote
Niel Hoback Posted August 15, 2011 Report Posted August 15, 2011 Yeah, it sounds like you're describing a lack of fuel situation. Do you have a clean filter? No rust pin holes in the line from the tank? Not sucking air anywhere ahead of the pump? Maybe blow the line back to the tank and see if that helps. I wouldn't say you were running hot at 140 degrees. Try a different coil, but that seems a pretty remote chance. Quote
Oberstar Posted August 15, 2011 Author Report Posted August 15, 2011 There is indeed a sucking, and it's coming from the vacuum wiper above my head- I took her out tonight and she performed flawlessly up and down hills and in-between. Guess I'll call the radiator shop to see what condition the fuel pick up tube was in when they cleaned and lined it. The steel lines are brand new. Quote
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