Exhaust Header Is Back From The Powder Coaters

[Normspeed]

Slick setup Marty. As far as chokes go, on my B&Bs I removed the linkage, choke plates and choke rods. To keep from sucking unfiltered air in below the filters, I plugged the choke rod holes with copper rivets and cut the rivets flush inside for smooth airflow. Mine works fine with no chokes but I do warm it up for a couple minutes from a cold startup. You can tell when it's really fully warmed up by the nice carb response.

Don, what kind of air filters will you run? Those look like they call for something custom fit.

[Don Coatney]

Slick setup Marty. As far as chokes go, on my B&Bs I removed the linkage, choke plates and choke rods. To keep from sucking unfiltered air in below the filters, I plugged the choke rod holes with copper rivets and cut the rivets flush inside for smooth airflow. Mine works fine with no chokes but I do warm it up for a couple minutes from a cold startup. You can tell when it's really fully warmed up by the nice carb response.

Don, what kind of air filters will you run? Those look like they call for something custom fit.

I have the choke linkage hooked up to both my B&B's but I have never had to use the chokes. John Burke is sending me the filters he was using. Here is an old picture I have in my files. Hope they will fit my 7'5" centers.

[Don Coatney]

Langdon has the best price for the adapters, and also has a linkage kit that mounts outboard of the carbs, and, if memory serves, requires a cable throttle. I wanted mine inboard with a throttle rod, so I built my own (at significant expense!). My throttle setup won't work on most cars unless you are using a tall manifold like the Edmunds; I would have used the Langdon setup if I had been putting the carbs on my Offenhauser manifold.

The short throw and stiff return springs are not a problem, since you need to increase the ratio to match the throw of our throttle pedal anyway.

The electric chokes require a constant, ignition-switched supply with 14 gauge wire. I used them simply because I didn't see an elegant way to keep the choke butterflys open all of the time. I never had chokes on my dual Stromberg setup, and it started just fine.

Marty

Marty;

Most likely I will not connect the wires to the choke. I will do as John did and run with the choke plates removed. It appears that there is linkage on the carburetors that holds the choke butterflies open when the throttle butterflies are open.

I also want to keep the mechanical linkage (not install a cable) so I may be following your route.

[martybose]

Marty;

Most likely I will not connect the wires to the choke. I will do as John did and run with the choke plates removed. It appears that there is linkage on the carburetors that holds the choke butterflies open when the throttle butterflies are open.

I also want to keep the mechanical linkage (not install a cable) so I may be following your route.

If you are removing the choke plates, make sure that you also remove the choke idle screw as well; it's the one on the long arm that goes into the choke housing. That way the main idle screw will actually control the idle!

Marty

[Guest jtw3749c]

By the way John, you can check out some of my stuff here. I just haven't got to much uploaded yet. And some of it got away before I got pictures. The sub frame is getting done this coming week.

http://s80.photobucket.com/albums/j162/jtw37/Powder%20Coated/

[Don Coatney]

If you are removing the choke plates, make sure that you also remove the choke idle screw as well; it's the one on the long arm that goes into the choke housing. That way the main idle screw will actually control the idle!

Marty

Thanks Marty;

Will do.

[John Burke]

If you are removing the choke plates, make sure that you also remove the choke idle screw as well; it's the one on the long arm that goes into the choke housing. That way the main idle screw will actually control the idle!

Marty

Marty/Don, I think if you check you will find I have already removed the choke idle screws...John (the magnificent one)

[Don Coatney]

Marty/Don, I think if you check you will find I have already removed the choke idle screws...John (the magnificent one)

John;

I was out checking when you made this posting. I also found something else interesting. The long tang that the choke throttle screw screws into was bent on one of the carburetors. This caused the throttle linkage to rub the side of the carburetor where the screwdriver is pointing. I believe this has been bent for a good while as there is a heavy rub mark. The linkage on this carburetor works much smoother now as I un-bent it.

[David Mac]

Don I too am using Langdons setup with the Offenhauser manifold and the linkage that Langdon provided.

1st pic is the overall linkage on the outside of carbs.

2nd pic is the linkage arm I made with a slight "s" or "z" bend to line up the two arms.

3rd pic linkage

4th pic I changed the carb bracket from the one that Langdon sent to encompass 2 mounting screws.

I hope this helps in some small way.

David

[Don Coatney]

Don I too am using Langdons setup with the Offenhauser manifold and the linkage that Langdon provided.

1st pic is the overall linkage on the outside of carbs.

2nd pic is the linkage arm I made with a slight "s" or "z" bend to line up the two arms.

3rd pic linkage

4th pic I changed the carb bracket from the one that Langdon sent to encompass 2 mounting screws.

I hope this helps in some small way.

David

Thanks David;

I spoke with Tom Langdon this morning and ordered the adaptors and linkage. I will see what all comes and what if any modifications I want to make when it arrives. Thanks for posting the photos of your setup. Looks good.

[blueskies]

Thanks David;

I spoke with Tom Langdon this morning and ordered the adaptors and linkage. I will see what all comes and what if any modifications I want to make when it arrives. Thanks for posting the photos of your setup. Looks good.

Don-

Are those the Holley/Carter carbs? I think you will find the new carb setup to be a huge improvement over your current setup. The trick will be getting your carb synch tool to work with the odd shaped throat of the carbs. I'm going to use a coffee can, or similar, to mount the tool to, and set that over the carb throat just like the air filters fit. Hope it works... As soon as I get the noise resolved, I'm on to getting my carbs dialed in.

I can't remember the center to center spacing of my Edmunds intake, but the Hellings type air cleaner covers that I bought from Langdon wouldn't fit without "nesting" one of them over the other, the carbs were too close together. I decided that there was no way I could scribe one of them to fit the other without it being a complete cobbled mess, so I went with the Obrien Truckers finned cover.

I still have the covers if you need something to practice cutting on...

I also bought the carb base adapters and linkage from Langdon. I think the adapters are a "Mr. Gasket" brand part. I've never been dissapointed with Langdon's service.

I only used the pivot rod and the little arms that fit to the rod (can't remember their correct name...) out of the linkage kit because my intake already had the mount for the rod. The Lokar throttle cable is very easy, but necessary on my setup because I don't have the pivot point on the head anymore for the stock linkage. I was happy to get rid of the stock linkage anyway, it had a mile of sloppy squeeky play in it. Now when I touch the throttle, there is nothing but GO.

Pete

[John Burke]

I have already sent the air filters to Don...I am using an Edmunds manifold so I had to "siamese" the covers to get them to fit...I don't know what c-c Don has on his manifold and it may be the covers would have worked without cutting them like I did....Neat thing about the adaptors, they have an extra tapped hole in the top so you can mount 3-hole carbs like the Holley 94's that I put on. I know that these 94's are ancient compared to the holley/webbers I had on there but it was strictly a matter of appearances...I wanted that "old school" look....John