Joe Flanagan Posted April 10, 2011 Report Posted April 10, 2011 I got the replacement fuel sender unit from J.C. Whitney and was looking at the how-to posted here: http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=23711&highlight=fuel+sender I've taken the disc off the top of my old sender and am trying to remove the stud at the center but it won't budge. Does anyone know how it comes out? This is the stud that's right beneath the wire connection. The thing is pretty badly corroded, so maybe it's just stuck but I was wondering if there's a trick to it. Quote
DJ194950 Posted April 10, 2011 Report Posted April 10, 2011 working on same problem joe. took 2 senders apart yesterday. posts are brass that are mushroomed over and carefully ground off. wiggle the windings post and they can be removed. i couldn't believe when i googled '1950 plymouth fuel sender' that the changeover to an adjustible new sender came up second on the search. now i'm just waiting for my j.c. whitney piece to be delivered. hope it's really as easy as the directions show. good luck, doug p-19 p-20 Quote
Joe Flanagan Posted April 10, 2011 Author Report Posted April 10, 2011 How about that, Doug? Here's a picture of mine: So if I grab that post with pliers and wiggle it, it will come out? PS: I have the replacement and will let you know how it goes. Quote
DJ194950 Posted April 10, 2011 Report Posted April 10, 2011 i think i reconize your parts. looks to be back side with post already gone. on the top side will be where mushroomed brass head is located to be ground off. attached my senders pics top and bottom apart and set back together. hope this helps. 2nd. thing do you have a heater valve inside car like last pic? mine leaked after i finally put water in motor. nos on ebay $245. not! found a replacement. attached info. lastly my nos underhood heater unit that wasn't leaking before, decided to leak at the nos core after heat valve replacement!???. 1 1/2 steps foreward, 1 backwards. enjoy, doug Quote
Joe Flanagan Posted April 10, 2011 Author Report Posted April 10, 2011 Thanks for the pictures, Doug. All I have on the top side is a threaded hole. Don't have it in front of me at the moment but that is how I recall it. I do have that water valve but I haven't gotten to that part of my project yet. Can you have the heater core soldered/braised? Quote
DJ194950 Posted April 11, 2011 Report Posted April 11, 2011 hi joe, that threaded hole on top is (the part) that has the mushroomed brass that holds it together. carefully grind the lip portion only. then the threaded part can be removed from below. my heater core is out sitting, waiting for a monday trip to the radiator shop for repair. I HOPE!! hopefully just the old soldered on end caps can be redone. testing at 4 lb. or less!! wish me luck. my vote on your woodgraining is for #3. looks great. where do you live again?? virginia?? alexandria?? seems fairfax va. where my cousin lives is close by. been a few years since i was there. do you think the airlines would let me bring my dash and window frames as carry-on?? or is it time for ROAD TRIP!! post pics when your rebuilt fuel sender is done. better yet, step by step pics. thanks doug p-19 p-20 Quote
Joe Flanagan Posted April 11, 2011 Author Report Posted April 11, 2011 Doug, since my last post I figured out the bit about the post being peened over and took a grinder to it. I managed to get all the insulators and washers off but now the post itself won't budge. I'm going to try to drill it out. I think it's just stuck in place. Hopefully I can get it out. I've found that heater cores are not all that uncommon in bone yards. Now, ones that don't leak? I don't know. Hopefully yours is good. I live in Alexandria, which is right next to Fairfax. I'll post pics of the refabricated sender. Quote
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