Master cylinder access door

[Mark Haymond]

I cut a hole in the floor of my 47 Plymouth yesterday. I had put in a modern master cylinder kit but the location is no longer under the stock access plate, it is halfway under the driver's seat. Oops! (It has been a while, so I hope I post the pics correctly.) Now to check the brake fluid level I will have to pop up the bottom seat cushion to see down there. That is easy enough on stock seats, I guess. To make it easier for myself I used a couple of hand knobs to hold it down so I can get to it without hand tools. I'm looking forward to juicing the brakes later this week and checking for leaks.

http://picasaweb.google.com/lenscaptain/OldPlymouthProjectCar#5501251294056459602

http://picasaweb.google.com/lenscaptain/OldPlymouthProjectCar#5501251301421615282

Edited August 3, 2010 by Mark Haymond

[BobT-47P15]

The knobs look pretty handy......you won't have to be messing with

a wrench or screwdriver. Raising the seat cushion from time to time

shouldn't be too bad.

[Mark Haymond]

Sheet metal, clip-on nut plates, and knobs came from Orchard Supply Hardware, did not cost much. I will still use a screw driver to get those stiff clip bails swung off the master cylinder cap, but that's normal.

[Don Coatney]

Mark;

Whos kit did you buy? Today I am working on installing a ECI master cylinder in my P-15. I will be facing the same problem. Thanks for the good idea.

[Mark Haymond]

i bought a master power brakes kit about 3 years ago

[Mark Haymond]

I wanted the round plastic knobs but they did not have the nut clips in the larger thread size so I settled for the triangular ones. I may attach a photo of the master cylinder on the lid. I am thinking of another mechanic's convenience if my wife drives it and wants the brakes "checked" for some reason.

[dezeldoc]

Their is no need to cut clear up into the trans tunnel, just open up the stock hole a few inches is fine and gives plenty of clearance. i would not use the knobs as i am thinking you are gonna get something caught on them, foot or whatever.

[Mark Haymond]

Actually my new hole starts about two inches to the rear of the transmission floor panel opening. The door and knobs will be under the front seat and out of the way, thank goodness. I guess shopping packages could snag there if I stashed them under the front seat.

[Don Coatney]

Mark;

How did you cut the hole? Sawsall?

[dezeldoc]

Actually my new hole starts about two inches to the rear of the transmission floor panel opening. The door and knobs will be under the front seat and out of the way, thank goodness. I guess shopping packages could snag there if I stashed them under the front seat.

I am not talking about the back, i am talking up the curve on the trans/driveshaft tunnel. you must run the seat all the way forward cause mine in the back position (where it is still to close) is in front of the seat.

Don. use a cutoff wheel real easy that way.

[Mark Haymond]

Don,

I used a Rotozip tool with a cutting disk attachment to cut the hole. It is like a combination of a circular saw and a big Dremel. It's small but it can cut into a P15 frame if you want to. As with other cutting wheels, patience results in a clean cut. It will cut straighter than a jigsaw blade or a (gasp) sawsall and can make short work of cutting bolts to length or other jobs that would otherwise be done with a hacksaw.

http://www.tylertool.com/rotozip.html

[Mark Haymond]

Dezeldoc,

Had to think about what you said.

I went out to the garage to check. With my seat back into place my knobs are still about an inch or so under the front edge of the seat. Later I am going to fix the seat adjust sliders and then I will be able to see the full range of front to back movement. Hopefully the knobs will still be out of the way of shoelaces and other possible driving hazards! I made that hole extra big so I would have plenty of room for my hands to flip those lid bails and attach a pressure brake bleeder in the future. Might have to check it some winter night with a flashlight and bad eyesight and I do not want to hurt my hands fiddling through a small hole. Hah, hah, so I made it Grande size!

[Don Coatney]

Thanks Mark.

Don,

I used a Rotozip tool with a cutting disk attachment to cut the hole. It is like a combination of a circular saw and a big Dremel. It's small but it can cut into a P15 frame if you want to. As with other cutting wheels, patience results in a clean cut. It will cut straighter than a jigsaw blade or a (gasp) sawsall and can make short work of cutting bolts to length or other jobs that would otherwise be done with a hacksaw.

http://www.tylertool.com/rotozip.html

[dezeldoc]

You might want to put a little of that stick on weatherstrip on the cover, then it will be a little more water proof.