Three speed linkage post to tranny

[pflaming]

Been looking through 'search' for some pictures of the linkage from the steering post down to tranny. Found nothing. What I hung on the wall just does not match. One rod has an eye on one end as if a rubber grommet went in it and pushed over a 'ball head'. I only have two 'rod linkages' seems something is missing. These reach down to the tranny.

Also, one lever on the tree speed attaches to a shaft that enters the tranny horizontally, and then points to the floor, it changes gears, gets neutral etc. The other lever is more horizontal and is 'loose' into the tranny as if it works by pushing down on ????

Pictures and . . . appreciated.

[William Davey]

If your linkage is like my 55 C-3-B-8 (3 on tree) the levers on the transmission do not work like other non Mopars I've seen. The others also had 2 levers on the trans, but both were mounted on horizontal shafts. One lever operates 1st and reverse, the other lever operates 2nd & 3rd.

On the trans in my truck however, the lever with the vertical shaft into the top of the trans side cover only moves when you pull the shift lever towards the steering wheel. The lever with the horizontal shaft moves back and forth whenever the shift lever is moved radially around the circumference of the wheel. Inside the trans, the vertical lever moves a "flipper" that determines which gears the horizontal lever moves. Pull on the "flipper" the shift lever moves 1st and reverse. No pull on the lever, the shift lever now moves 2nd and 3rd.

I learned this while bench testing my trans after a professional overhaul that I was sure had gone wrong. After removing the side cover I discovered this "unusual" configuration.

Once you figure out which lever does what, there's only one way to reconnect the rods that makes sense.

[HanksB3B]

The lever furthest to the left is supposed to have a part that the top of which is machined to look like a "Bishop" in a chess set. The eyelet portion of the bent rod is supposed to have a rubber grommet that drops onto the aforementioned part. Somewhere along the line and I can't remember why mine has a bolt and double nut. There is a hardened nylon shoulder washer that is a standard plumbing part that can be found at any good ol'fashioned harware store in the plumbing setion that fits and works just perfectly.

My recent steering box re-build had this "Bishop-Bolt" and also the rubber grommet. Even though functionally I have no reason to return to original, because it's the only one I have, I'm going to hang onto it.

I hope this photo helps you pf and trust me once you crawl under the beast and try to fit the linkages on, it will quickly become evident what goes where.

Hank

[pflaming]

You two saved me a lot of work. It is easy to fix things with the engine out. Shifter was not correct so I was able to get the forks where they belong. That done, now the linkage. My 'bishop' is on the side (photo). I do have a rod with an eye bolt end but there must be a second rod (something) to connect to the tranny. Studied your pic and I see where the bolt replaces the bishop. Will now install and figure it out. Thank you for the help.

Nice wiring! I have to 'cosmetic' mine. Will do that when the engine is in. WOW! So much to do and so much DETAIL!

Edited November 19, 2017 by pflaming

[HanksB3B]

A flat 1/4" thick bent steel arm that attaches to the top of the transmission, which in turn is attached to the linkage. It's shown as "Lever-21-42-37". The giveaway (if you are rummaging thru a parts box) is that it has a rectangular punched hole on the end that attaches to the trans.

Please PM me so I can email attach a 120kb file with a pdf extension.

Hank

P.S. The attached picture shows both levers attached to the trans., but I see in your picture #1 you have them attached already.

Edited May 27, 2010 by HanksB3B

[pflaming]

Hank and William: Thank you it all connects. Will need to find a grommet.

[HanksB3B]

but it's the only one I have. It's worn but could serve as a piece of forensic evidence of what should be there. Let me know if you need further help and if you find an actual NOS part please let me know where.

Thanks,

Hank

[pflaming]

Maybe the bolt and washer setup was because the grommet is hard to find.

GREAT looking engine and tranny. QUESTION: What kind of a brake master cylinder is that!!! Sure looks different than mine.

Side story. 30 years ago, my wife, 10 year old son and I went to Europe. Met her parents there and while driving along this sea on a Sunday PM my wife noted the women were topless. Our 10 year old said, " I was on the beach and this girl turned around! Boy, she sure didn't look like Glenn (his brother)!!! Your MC sure doesn't look like mine!

[HanksB3B]

is from Roberts. It does not look anything like what I removed from my truck, but looks exactly like what should be there in our truck manuals. The only funny thing is that I told Gary Roberts that the way they were assembled was not correct. According to the Manual the plate where the fill plug is should be mounted so that the plug is toward the front. Positioned to the back makes it difficult to fill. I switched mine to match the book. I suspect (perhaps) when our trucks were not antiques, mechanics discovered that the master cylinder from the cars worked perfectly well on the trucks. But don't take my word on this it's only conjecture.

Hank

P.S. Roberts Brake parts are the way to go as far as I'm concerned. Price was fair (even beat having them re-built) Fit was perfect all-around. It's a great feeling week after week to check your brake fluid and see it at the same level every time. My my Malibu Drive that much better and secure feeling.

[pflaming]

Hank / and others: "BISHOP" connection. I removed my bishop and duplicated what I 'saw' on your photo. Is that 'bishop' connection designed to be 'loose'? I have not worked on any adjustments yet, but when I drove the alley I could not get low and reverse and this is the linkage that does that. Any suggestions on this point and tranny linkage adjustment overall? Like you said, once under the truck the connection choices became clear. I think I will test the shifting with one rear wheel off the ground. Is that what most do?

[HanksB3B]

PF,

When I completed the steering box swap I also could not get first or reverse. I think the correct adjustment is made on the linkage is threaded and has that square piece with a small dowel that is fastened to the column mounted linkage. You might try adjusting that by turning it clockwise or counterclockwise until you are able to shift into first or reverse. Any movement should be made gently and not forced for fear you may hurt something (including your tired elbow). The other thing I learned and for me it made a big difference and allowed me to shift into Rev and 1st is that there is a piece attached to the column to mount the shift lever you operate inside the cab. If you remove the two screws holding it to the column, you will notice it turns and adjusts the actual "lift" of the shift levers motion. This worked for me. Just relax and go slow and things will fall into place you'll see.

As far as the bishop goes, yes I think if I remember correctly the linkage and hardened grommet was just pushed into place. There is a nylon shoulder washer that works perfectly (dimensionally) if you search any good hardware stores plumbing washer boxes. It made a difference as to how smoothly my linkage operated on my double bolt setup.

P.S. I did find the sheet that shows the transmission and levers. Let me know if you need further help.

Hank

Edited June 4, 2010 by HanksB3B

[pflaming]

Like Hank I have a substitute setup for the bishop. I just don't know how tight that should be. Seems to me that since it was a 'slip on' grommet, the linkage is probably designed for some give and take. Accordingly, I am going to loosen things up a bit, put on a lock nut so all holds and see what happens. Thanks Hank for the reply.

Update from above:I studied "how" the shifting device on the steering post works. First I discovered it was dry as a popcorn fart so I gave it a good shot of PB Blaster and got it all to slide easily, then blew off the exess with an air hose. The shifter leaves the gears in 2nd and high position. To get into low and reverse one raises the lever on the 'tree' which raises a slotted 'collar'. A yoke goes into the collar's slot and raises the linkage thus the shifter on the tranny. This collar / yoke combination is spring loaded and returns downward when released. Mine was so dry the yoke was forced out of the collar. Once it was free and lightly oiled it all worked. This explanation may be a bit wordy and elementary for most but for the novices, like me, maybe it will be helpful. As a side note, I will keep this assembly clean and lightly oiled henseforth.

Details, details!!!

Edited June 5, 2010 by pflaming
I added what solved my shifting problem.